To have a meal at Rang Mahal is to immerse in the delicate practice of bringing together opposites. You’ll first encounter this when walking in, through a dark, crimson walkway. The light at the end of this “tunnel” is a high-ceilinged European-style dining hall with white-washed oak floors. Warmth, in this room for giants which fits 92, is exuded by humble and gracious service.
On the table, individually plated dishes are paired with larger sharing platters: the staff will thoughtfully suggest adjusting set portions in accordance with dining-group sizes. “Would you like for us to add one portion of lamb chop tandoori so each of you get a piece?” our server initiated. The spices on the evenly cooked and succulent lamb are evident, but they are gentle in piquancy. The robust clove-smoked bharta (eggplant) with its glorious layers of textures is served in a clear Korken jar.
Within this straightforward, clean-lined space, complexities abound as evidenced by the flavours found in classic dishes – the murgh makhni’s thick honey tomato gravy is a little nutty, tangy, smooth and light, yet still full-flavoured. The classic amchuri bhindi is crunchy, not sticky – the dried mango powder accentuating the textures and natural freshness of okra. These dishes are ready to be paired with one of Rang Mahal’s 240 wines from the old and new worlds (two Indian wines included).
Despite its luxurious setting, Rang Mahal is committed to giving back to poor communities – pots used in the restaurant were bought from Rani, a single mother of two living in the Indian state of Rajasthan (where the village of Rang Mahal is located). Rang Mahal’s parent company is also big on philanthropy, distributing blankets in areas in northern India affected by severe cold weather every winter, among other activities. These are efforts we can get behind.
Level 3, Pan Pacific Singapore, S(039595)