In the 2006 film The Devil Wears Prada, the intimidating fashion magazine editor portrayed by Meryl Streep shoots down a hapless staffer’s pitch with the icy statement, “Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.” Perhaps she would have been more pleased with the florals designers sent down the Fall/Winter 2022 runways.

At Dior Men, creative director Kim Jones imagined a conversation with the late Christian Dior. Flowers were one of the Dior codes he reinterpreted for the collection. These translated to lavish embroidery on tailored shirts and oversized sweatshirts that paid homage to archival haute couture, as well as Monsieur Dior’s love for roses.

Moving takes on the floral theme were also seen in Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter menswear, featuring the final collection showcasing the work of its influential artistic director Virgil Abloh, who passed away last November.

In head-to-toe looks, a vintage-style jacquard tapestry flashed riotous blooms. There were also bouquet bags filled with leather flowers on some models, seemingly paying respect to the late designer.

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Kenzo’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection marks the debut of new artistic director Nigo, better known (for now) as the founder of streetwear labels A Bathing Ape and Human Made. Presented at the Galerie Vivienne in Paris, where brand founder Kenzo Takada unveiled his first collection back in 1970, Nigo’s designs for men and women included creations that merged different cultural influences. Among them were varsity jackets that reflected the interest Japanese fashionistas in the ‘60s showed for the American Ivy League style.

Presented at the Galerie Vivienne in Paris, where brand founder Kenzo Takada unveiled his first collection back in 1970, Nigo’s designs for men and women included creations that merged different cultural influences. Among them were varsity jackets that reflected the interest Japanese fashionistas in the ‘60s showed for the American Ivy League style.

This season, collegiate sports also provide a competitive edge for some collections. Synonymous with what is often referred to as a hooligan’s sport played by gentlemen, the rugby shirt inspired outsized interpretations at Louis Vuitton’s womenswear as well as Burberry.

Extra credit, however, surely, goes to Hedi Slimane’s handful of college-inspired creations for Celine’s “Boy Doll” Fall collection. The brand’s creative director elevated the classic crew-neck knit into an intricately fringed sweater bearing a varsity-style capital C.

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Let’s take a minute to consider the context to these emerging trends: Held in New York, London, Milan and Paris, the shows mostly take place about six months before the arrival of the actual seasons, giving brands enough time to produce their collections after retail and media showcases.

The Fall/Winter 2022 shows mostly took place either in January (menswear) or February/March (womenswear), or somewhere in between. Many were also the first fashion shows to take place after two years of pandemic-related lockdowns.

This may explain the great preponderance of all-black styles; call it the evidence of a sombre mood, or call it a palette cleanser. Either way, the always sophisticated hue added sharpness to styles both streamlined and stunningly over the top.

Black was most intriguingly used to anchor tactile fabrications, such as Burberry’s quilted ensemble, and Celine’s coat which appeared to be made of python skin but was actually hand embroidered with thousands of leather and sequin “scales”.

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