
Foodie Holiday is a series that features food recommendations by chefs and personalities from their holidays abroad.
Since borders re-opened, Japan has been on top of everyone’s travel bucket list. Singaporean chef Willin Low who runs Roketto Niseko during the ski season is heading there this winter and staying until March 2023. He has been back in the country recently to visit friends, relax, and dine at some of his favourite local food spots. Willin tells us more about his food and drink recommendations in Tokyo and Niseko.
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Could you recommend your favourite fine dining and casual restaurants in Japan?
My go-to casual izakaya in Tokyo is Uoshin Nogizaka — they have different branches all around city, but this is my favourite as it is rustic and has an awesome vibe that screams “I am in Japan!”
Recently I stopped going to “it” restaurants and prefer to discover those that are under the radar. And in the same vein, my favourite fine dining restaurant isn’t on any list or featured in any famous guide — it’s called L’as, and is located in the Omotesando area. They serve French cuisine with an innovative twist. Instead of being obsessed with luxury, Chef Daisuke Kaneko focuses on creating a great meal for his guests. All the meals I’ve had there were fantastic. Little known fact: The tables with drawers at L’as were the inspiration behind Wild Rocket’s tables a decade ago and only now are other restaurants doing the same.
What are your favourite cafes in Tokyo and Niseko and why do you like to go there?
For over a decade, I have been going to Little Nap Coffee Stand in Yoyogi Park, Tokyo, which is just behind the train tracks. I recently found Paddlers Cafe also in the same area. There’s also Fulgen which transforms into a cocktail bar in the evenings. They are all within walking distance of each other. This area of Tokyo has always been my respite from the city’s hustle bustle.
As for Niseko, my go-to cafe is Sprout Café, partly because I used to live in the building next door. They roast the beans at the premises. After your coffee, check out the organic shop called Pyram Organic & Plants and buy some superb dried dekopon (orange) to snack on whilst on the ski slopes. The other cafe I like is White Birch Cafe — which is also a charming and restful spot that serves good coffee and sandwiches.
Did you find any inspiring fresh produce from these places during your recent trip to Japan?
Tomatoes and white corn are so good — you can eat them on their own — but cooking them too brings a different type of happiness. We told our Japanese friends that we ate the corn raw and they were surprised and tried it for the first time!
Another produce I love is fresh sansho. I missed it as the season had ended when I arrived. It’s like dried Szechuan pepper but with fresh subtle numbness and wonderful citrus notes! It’s so addictive that I once carried a bunch with me in my pocket and secretly added it to dishes at restaurants.
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Can you share some hidden gems in Niseko that only locals know?
One hidden gem is Boulangerie Jin (45-8 Sakuragawa, Makkari, Abuta). It’s ‘hidden’ only because it’s not easy to get to and they close every so often. Out of the five times I went, they were shut three times. They are actually quite famous. And the croissants are my favourite in the world.
The other hidden gem isn’t an F&B establishment per se, but a tofu shop called Wakimizu no Sato (217-1 Yashiro, Makkari-mura, Abuta-gun). There’s a small spring outside the shop and all the tofu is made using that spring water. Bring your empty water bottles to fill up right there after visiting the shop. I love the yuba sheets and tofu noodles which you can buy and eat back in the hotel.
What are your upcoming plans in Niseko? Could you give a sneak peak of your menu?
I think the most fun I’ve had preparing my omakase menu in Niseko is that it’s truly an omakase that depends on what’s seasonal from my seafood supplier. So the dish I cook this week might not be available the next! Regardless, we always serve a Singapore Fried Noodles dish at the end of the meal — usually it’s a prawn oil pasta.
Which edible souvenirs from Hokkaido should travellers buy?
Calbee Jaga Crispy thick potato chips using a particularly buttery Hokkaido varietal. It’s only available in Hokkaido and I buy them from the Calbee store at Chitose airport.
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