Ian Goh, winner of S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Asian edition 2022/23 competition, wanted to celebrate his Hainanese heritage so he created a dish using lamb. After all, one of the well-known Hainanese dishes is mutton stew.
For the competition, his dish showcased lamb prepared in various ways, using spices like cumin, fennel, Sze Chuan peppercorn, and ginger, along with classic French techniques.
The sous chef one-Michelin-starred contemporary Korean restaurant Nae:um is especially dedicated to the combination of European-French flavours and Asian produce. Prior to Nae:um, he trained at Ma Cuisine and Alma by Juan Amador.
Goh competed against nine other Asian participants aged below 30 in Bangkok on 31 October 2022. He now looks forward to the world finals in Milan this October. We find out more about his culinary journey and his preparation for the upcoming competition.
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What made you decide to be a chef?
I started out training at the Singapore Hotel and Tourism Education Centre (SHATEC) where I attained a Diploma in Culinary Arts, and this was followed by an apprenticeship at Goodwood Park Hotel. I wasn’t exactly the most hardworking or studious person back in school and I did not perform as expected during my end of year exams.
Without any proper direction, I applied to SHATEC on a whim and that was where I discovered cooking to be a joy in my life. Growing up, no one in my family knew how to cook and as such, we often ate take-outs or went out as a family to eat. This was one of the main reasons why I felt that learning a skill such as cooking could be important to me in life, which in turn also sparked an interest in the culinary world.
How did you and Chef Louis Han feel when you received your accolade? How has your journey been so far since winning the competition?
Both of us were very surprised given the strength of the competition. Many of the competitors had years of experience working in some of the best restaurants and for me, to come up top, was a humbling experience.
I have also had an opportunity recently to re-create my competition dish for a media lunch which was challenging but really fulfilling, considering it was the first time I made this dish for so many people. Thankfully, everything went smoothly without hiccups.
How are you preparing for the finale in Milan in October?
Chef Dave from Burnt Ends has been assigned as my mentor for the World Finals. Every month, we would meet up to recreate the dish from scratch and to also brainstorm on how we can improve, not only in terms of flavour but also the cutleries and crockeries used. I am also very glad that Chef Louis is able to take time off his busy schedule to assist me during such sessions as well.
While any R&D session is an intense and tiring one, I am happy with how far my dish has come since the beginning of this journey, all those months ago. And of course, there is always room for improvement. So far, we are looking forward to using and butchering a whole lamb carcass instead of ordering lamb by the parts, as well as looking for customised plates to provide a more elegant and refined feel to the finished dish.
With the world opening up once again, the opportunities to learn more about Asian flavours and techniques refined over the past thousand years is easily accessible to more young chefs.
How has it been working with Chef Louis – besides important culinary techniques, do you learn a lot about his food culture and other aspects of running a kitchen too?
While working for any chef in general is not easy both mentally and physically as you get to understand their working style and practices, it is working with Chef Louis that has had a real impact on my maturity and mindset towards running the kitchen and in my daily life.
He has taught me to be stricter and mentally firm, but also at the same time, to dream bigger and always get out of my comfort zone. He also checks in with me during my breaks to see how I am going, which I am really appreciative of him as it is not often that one can have a mentor who looks out for his staff like Chef Louis does.
What other important lessons have you learnt from working with other chefs like Dave Pynt, Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn of Le Du, and Chef Chef ‘Pam’ Pichaya Utharntharm of Potong for a recent cooking collaboration?
Each of the jurors from the Asian regionals are giants in the industry and in their own right; they themselves have also influenced my cuisine today. From Chef Dave using open fire cooking to Chef Pam where her restaurant utilises Chinese spices and flavours with hints of European techniques, and Chef Ton with his use of indigenous ingredients and keeping true to one’s heritage and background.
Do you think Asia’s vibrant culinary landscape now is a great moment for young chefs like yourself?
I think very much so. With the world opening up once again, the opportunities to learn more about Asian flavours and techniques refined over the past thousand years is easily accessible to more young chefs. Logistics wise, it is certainly much easier to bring in produce from all over the world compared to when I first started out and this is a good stepping stone for cooks to broaden their food knowledge.
What do you hope to achieve in your culinary career?
Being a lover of fine wines, it is my dream to someday own a small wine bar serving wines from lesser-known regions such as Thailand, Ukraine and Georgia etc. with food accompaniments. I would love to do a stage in France for a period of time someday. I wish I had the courage to do so when I was younger, but working alongside Georges Blanc or Michel Guerard would be an eye-opening experience.
What’s your best advice for younger cooks?
I would say to never give up and keep working harder. I personally had to work really long hours on end without seeing my family for weeks. But I would not be where I am now if not for this experience. The road to the top is a long and lonely trek, but the rewards at the end of the rainbow is something worth fighting for.