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What is molecular cosmetics and how will it help your skin?

The inventor of the Vampire Facial, Dr Barbara Sturm uses science to heal skin.

While her vampire facials may be a bit out of reach since her clinic is located in Germany, her namesake skincare line is a more accessible way of introducing Molecular Cosmetics into your daily routine, and it is now available in Singapore, exclusively at sg.drsturm.com.

As its name suggests, Molecular Cosmetics work on the skin from a molecular level. Dr Sturm believes that you can slow down the effects of skin ageing by focusing on three factors — reducing inflammation, improving the lifespan of telomeres and hydration.

Dr Barbara Sturm

Dr Barbara Sturm

Reducing Inflammation

Skin inflammation is a complicated process that involves several steps. First is the skin’s response to its environment, which can come in the form of heightened sensitivity, and lower tolerance against environmental aggressors. The second is the inflammation itself, which produces enzymes that can digest or destroy the skin tissue as a result. The third is the repair process, in which skin repairs the tissue that has been damaged during the inflammation process.

The problem comes when there is constant microinflammation, in which the skin never settles into the repair phase, existing in a constant state of damage over time. This sustained damage can lead to ageing and can also be the source of other skin problems such as eczema and rosecea.

Cleanser, $105; Balancing Toner, $105; Dr Barbara Sturm.

Cleanser, $105; Balancing Toner, $105; Dr Barbara Sturm.

That’s where Dr Barbara Sturm’s skincare comes into play. It contains key ingredient Purslane, an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound rich in omega-3 fatty acids, alpha-linolenic acid, and antioxidants. It’s also a telomere activator (more on that later). It can help neutralise free radicals damage, thus protecting the skin against external aggressors. By controlling inflammation, you can help reduce the amount of damage your skin goes through, and reduce the effects it has on skin ageing.

Telomere activation

This is where we get into the science of Molecular Cosmetics. Telomeres are the caps at the end of a DNA strand and essentially protect our chromosomes. They start out long but as cells divide and multiply, these telomere caps shorten until the cells mutate or die off. By protecting telomeres, you can ensure that cells remain healthy.

Repair Food, $110, Dr Barbara Sturm.

Repair Food, $110, Dr Barbara Sturm.

Purslane has been clinically studied and in one trial, 83 percent of patients saw partial to complete clinical improvement from a chronic skin inflammation disease after six weeks of oral purslane supplementation. When topically applied, purslane can work on targeted areas of the skin. Both options are available from Dr Barbara Sturm in the form of skincare products, as well as supplements that contain purslane.

Hydration

From left: Hyaluronic Serum, $410; Calming Serum, $310; Brightening Serum, $420; Clarifying Serum, $340; Super Anti-Aging Serum, $470; Dr Barbara Sturm.

From left: Hyaluronic Serum, $410; Calming Serum, $310; Brightening Serum, $420; Clarifying Serum, $340; Super Anti-Aging Serum, $470; Dr Barbara Sturm.


A lot of skin issues stem from dehydration, and keeping it moisturised is also the key to helping skin look plump and firm. When skin is dry, the likelihood of dry patches and fine lines forming is also higher. Dr Barbara Sturm’s prides herself on the Hyaluronic Acid Serum, which contains both short-chain and long-chain hyaluronic acid. While it’s known as a super ingredient for hydration, the problem is its relatively large molecular weight, often unable to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. This problem is alleviated by the short-chain hyaluronic acid, which is able to penetrate into the dermis layer to hydrate skin.

Editor’s Picks

Enzyme Cleanser, $115, Dr Barbara Sturm

Enzyme Cleanser, $115.

Enzyme Cleanser, $115.

This product acts as a gentle cleanser and exfoliator. It comes in a powder form which activates into a rich foam in contact with water, cleansing away debris and lifting off dull and dead surface skin cells for a brighter-looking complexion.

Face Mask, $180, Dr Barbara Sturm

Face Mask, $180.

Face Mask, $180.

Perfect for both a hydration boost and to calm the skin down after sun exposure, the Face Mask contains aloe vera and camomile to soothe redness. Kaolin clay absorbs excess sebum and keeps skin smooth and supple.

Hyaluronic Acid, $410, Dr Barbara Sturm

Hyaluronic Acid $410.

Hyaluronic Acid $410.

The star of the skincare range, Dr Barbara Sturm’s Hyaluronic Acid contains the optimum concentration of high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid to deliver hydration to different layers of the skin.

Dr Barbara Sturm Molecular Cosmetics is available at sg.drsturm.com.