The Chanel tweed suit has come a long way: Today, it might be at the apex of the It-clothing pyramid, but that was not the case back in 1923. The year marked the first time Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel showed a twinset made from tweed — then a material most commonly used for sportswear worn by men such as her partner, the Duke of Westminster. The debut of the designer’s reimagining of this unglamorous fabric hardly made a stir — until an image of the actress Ina Claire, clad in a brown Chanel tweed suit, appeared in a magazine in 1924. It has since been seen on style icons from Jackie O to Gigi Hadid. Today, Chanel’s tweed jackets or suits are among the most valuable pieces in the realm of designer clothing, whether new or vintage.
Now, the French luxury house once again reimagines the elegantly hardy fabric in unprecedentedly extravagant forms. It recently unveiled its latest High Jewellery collection, Tweed de Chanel — its first entirely dedicated to tweed. To create necklaces, rings and bracelets with the suppleness and charming irregularities of the handwoven Scottish woollen fabric, Chanel’s high-jewellery workshop developed special articulation and setting techniques. These enabled the artisans to intertwine and layer stones (diamonds, sapphires and pearls) and gold on different planes, so as to create 45 pieces of uniquely pliable statement pieces. Here’s a look at (almost) all of the designs:
1) Tweed Couture
Platinum, pink gold, pink sapphires, diamonds and spinels.
Tweed Couture bracelet.
Tweed Couture necklace.
Tweed Couture ring.
2) Tweed d’Or
Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, diamonds and topaz.
Tweed d’Or earrings.
Tweed d’Or necklace.
3) Tweed Frange
White gold and diamonds.
Tweed Frange necklace.
Tweed Frange bracelet.
Tweed Frange earrings.
Tweed Frange ring.
4) Tweed Graphique
White gold, onyx and diamonds.
Tweed Graphique brooch.
Tweed Graphique bracelet.
Tweed Graphique earrings.
Tweed Graphique necklace.
Tweed Graphique ring.
5) Tweed Contraste
Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, onyx and diamonds.
Tweed Contraste earrings.
Tweed Contraste watch.
Tweed Contraste ring.
Tweed Contraste necklace.
6) Tweed d’Ete
White gold, yellow gold, white diamonds and yellow diamonds.
Tweed d’Ete ring.
Tweed d’Ete earrings.
Tweed d’Ete necklace.
7) Tweed Chaine
Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, tsavorites and diamonds.
Tweed Chaine earrings.
Tweed Chaine necklace.
Tweed Chaine bracelet.
8) Tweed Cordage
Yellow gold, platinum, pearls and diamonds.
Tweed Cordage bracelet.
Tweed Cordage bracelet.
Tweed Cordage brooch.
Tweed Cordage earrings.
Tweed Cordage earrings.
Tweed Cordage necklace.
Tweed Cordage necklace.
Tweed Cordage ring.
Tweed Cordage ring.
Tweed Cordage watch.
9) Tweed Brode
White gold and diamonds.
Tweed Brode brooch.
Tweed Brode bracelet.
Tweed Brode necklace.
Tweed Brode watch.
Tweed Brode ring.
Tweed Brode earrings.