The Chanel tweed suit has come a long way: Today, it might be at the apex of the It-clothing pyramid, but that was not the case back in 1923. The year marked the first time Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel showed a twinset made from tweed — then a material most commonly used for sportswear worn by men such as her partner, the Duke of Westminster. The debut of the designer’s reimagining of this unglamorous fabric hardly made a stir — until an image of the actress Ina Claire, clad in a brown Chanel tweed suit, appeared in a magazine in 1924. It has since been seen on style icons from Jackie O to Gigi Hadid. Today, Chanel’s tweed jackets or suits are among the most valuable pieces in the realm of designer clothing, whether new or vintage.

Now, the French luxury house once again reimagines the elegantly hardy fabric in unprecedentedly extravagant forms. It recently unveiled its latest High Jewellery collection, Tweed de Chanel — its first entirely dedicated to tweed. To create necklaces, rings and bracelets with the suppleness and charming irregularities of the handwoven Scottish woollen fabric, Chanel’s high-jewellery workshop developed special articulation and setting techniques. These enabled the artisans to intertwine and layer stones (diamonds, sapphires and pearls) and gold on different planes, so as to create 45 pieces of uniquely pliable statement pieces. Here’s a look at (almost) all of the designs:

1) Tweed Couture

Platinum, pink gold, pink sapphires, diamonds and spinels.

2) Tweed d’Or

Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, diamonds and topaz.

3) Tweed Frange

White gold and diamonds.

4) Tweed Graphique

White gold, onyx and diamonds.

5) Tweed Contraste

Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, onyx and diamonds.

6) Tweed d’Ete

White gold, yellow gold, white diamonds and yellow diamonds.

7) Tweed Chaine

Yellow gold, platinum, pearls, tsavorites and diamonds.

8) Tweed Cordage

Yellow gold, platinum, pearls and diamonds.

9) Tweed Brode

White gold and diamonds.