01: Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740/1G-001
The sporty line has finally gotten its first perpetual calendar, and it’s a marvellous fit. The Calibre 240 Q luxuriates in a 40mm white gold case and displays the month, day, date, leap year, and 24 hours in three neat subdials. The blue dial, horizontal grooves, hands, indexes and brushed and polished case still make it a classic example of a Nautilus.
02: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
Perhaps more astounding than the fact that this is the world’s thinnest automatic watch (and tourbillon) is how this Octo Finissimo is not a concept watch. That’s right, this 3.95mm thick ticking wafer is actually built to be worn. It’s powered by the 1.95mm BVL 288 calibre and still manages a power reserve 52 hours despite its considerable skinniness. Limited to 50 pieces.
03: Omega Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8
Laser ablation allowed for the cut-out dial of this commemorative Speedmaster to resemble the surface of the moon – a fitting design for a watch created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 8 mission. Since Apollo 8 was the first to orbit the moon, the watch gives a nod to this by having its case back resemble the “dark side” of the moon. The chronograph Calibre 1869 is actually a blackened and decorated version of the Calibre 1861.
04: Urwerk AMC
Put simply, the Urwerk AMC is a contemporary take on Breguet’s Sympathique clocks from 1793. These “master” clocks had a dock for a “slave” pocket watch, and would help wind, regulate and set the time of the slave. In Urwerk’s version, the master is a portable atomic clock but like the Sympathiques, all communications between clock and watch remain entirely mechanical.
05: Chopard L.U.C All-in-One
This technical tour de force was first introduced in 2010 to celebrate Chopard’s 150th anniversary. This year it returns with the same bevy of complications, but in an updated design. The Roman numerals have been replaced with baton markers and the sunburst guilloche on the dial is more prominent. Its two faces feature 14 indications, including a perpetual calendar, tourbillon and several astronomical functions. There are 10 pieces in platinum and 10 in 18k rose gold, all of which bear the Gevena Seal.