Dunhill’s Spring/Summer 2021 subverts tailoring codes in an extraordinary way

Inside out

Subverting tailoring codes has become de rigueur for menswear brands these days, but Dunhill’s Spring/Summer 2021 take is extraordinary. Merging the individualistic New Romantic style of the 1980s with relaxed tailoring, the brand brings to the fore typically hidden materials and techniques. Traditional reinforcing fabrics such as chest canvas, shoulder canvas and Linen Holland (dull-finish linen used by tailors to reinforce seams) are used to construct relaxed, evening or half-wrap jackets. Elsewhere, pad stitching, usually used in internal layers, decorates collars and lapels, are revealed because these hard- working, hidden details deserve their time in the sun.

Clear vision

Known for its distinct design language across product categories, Cartier again offers fresh interpretations of its iconic watch and jewellery designs in Spring/Summer 2021 eyewear collection. Recently updated and relaunched, the Pasha de Cartier round-watch family inspires a new pair of Pasha sunnies – round, of course, and detailed with Godron and C de Cartier motifs at the temples. Another standout: Premier de Cartier shades, a navigator design with a full metal construction that mixes the modern and the vintage, and references the brand’s first eyewear collection launched in 1983.

A good turn

Hybrid shoes with a mix of influences and materials continue to be a trend, and Berluti’s latest City collection shoe, Twist, is a refined take on the classic boat shoe. Two variations feature uppers made from the brand’s patinated Venezia leather or a mix of said leather with Berluti’s signature canvas. The lugged outsole on boat shoes is also a defining characteristic and, despite its chunky appearance, is made from a flexible, lightweight rubber. Sealing the fact that these aren’t your average boat shoes are details such as hand-stitching on the apron and heel parts of the shoe, as well as the D-ring, a decorative feature on Berluti’s leather goods.