[dropcap size=big]F[/dropcap]rom lace shirts by Burberry to crocheted shorts by Gucci, womenswear-inflected men’s styles are having a moment right now – but we’re glad to note that some menswear labels are taking things a little less literally.
Under the creative stewardship of designer Stefano Pilati, the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Spring/Summer 2016 collection makes use of the traditional qualities of women’s fashion – fluidity and lightness – to refresh its masculine codes. Made from Zegna’s exclusive fabrics such as lightweight Double Century cashmere, ultra-fine wool and silks, the pieces include flowing trousers matched with oversized coats, slim-fitting jackets or draped blousons. Updated madras checks form the main patterns, contrasting with ensembles in stark white or black.
For customers who demand a more exacting fit, this season also sees the Italian brand expanding its range of Su Misura offerings. Going beyond regular suits, Pilati’s Broken Suit concept is all about subtly mismatched jacket and trousers – which fans can now have tailored to their exact measurements. Formerly comprising knitwear and outerwear, the custom-made Casual Luxury range now also includes denim, so there’s no excuse to look less than sharp even on your days off . #01-34/36 Paragon.
Gucci’s press notes for its spring collection read like a thesis, with quotes from philosophers such as Jacques Derrida and lines about the “new possibilities of freedom and emancipation”. The thinking that inspired Alessandro Michele’s Spring/Summer collection for Gucci basically translates into pieces that require an open mind about the way men’s fashion is defined today. A turquoise suit with botanical embroidery? Longsleeved lace or lurex tops? A crocheted top with a butterfl y motif, paired with matching shorts? It’s all part of the gender-blurring exercise that Gucci’s latest creative director has been exploring and provides, if not exactly everyday clothing, fashion for thought. #01-38 Paragon.
EASY DOES IT
What we enjoy most about Hermes’ brand of luxury is how easy it all feels – its menswear, for instance, typically looks relaxed yet sophisticated all at once. Expanding on that theme for spring, Hermes menswear design head Veronique Nichanian proposes plenty of fresh colours and light fabrics, brought together in surprising ways. Water snake skin in bright red, for instance, takes the otherwise casual form of a hooded jacket, while an elasticised waistband brings comfy ease to trousers in green suede. In Nichanian’s hands, even the classic pinstripe suit – typically synonymous with the corporate world – takes on a stylishly slouchy silhouette that makes it a goanywhere option. #01-12 Scotts Square.
Until recently, one of the few ways for a stylish grown man to show his enduring loyalty to the Rolling Stones was by wearing a Zenith watch created as a tribute to the legendary 53-year-old rock band. Thanks to Moncler, fans now have more tasteful sartorial options bearing the mark of their favourite musicians – the highly recognisable “tongue and lips” logo (commissioned by Stones frontman Mick Jagger in 1969) lines four different down-filled, nappa-leather jackets in rock-and-roll black. #01-17 Ion Orchard.