01: THE LONG RUN

Just as we crave longer battery lives for digital devices, so too do we yearn for mechanical watches with extended power reserves. while parmigiani led the charge with its senfine concept movement, which has a whopping 70-day power reserve, A number of other brands also showcased
new timepieces that outlast the competition.

01: Glashutte Original Senator Excellence
Beneath the sober, minimalist exterior of Glashutte Original’s brand new Senator Excellence lies the new, in-house developed Calibre 36, which has a single spring barrel that delivers 100 hours of power reserve. To achieve this, the barrel was enlarged and the arbor reduced in size to accommodate a longer mainspring. The 4Hz movement is also fitted with a silicon balance spring, a first for the manufacture.
01: Glashutte Original Senator Excellence
Beneath the sober, minimalist exterior of Glashutte Original’s brand new Senator Excellence lies the new, in-house developed Calibre 36, which has a single spring barrel that delivers 100 hours of power reserve. To achieve this, the barrel was enlarged and the arbor reduced in size to accommodate a longer mainspring. The 4Hz movement is also fitted with a silicon balance spring, a first for the manufacture.
02: Hublot Big Bang Meca-10
The entire mechanism of Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10, inspired by Meccano model-construction kits, is geared towards showcasing the watch’s impressive 10-day power reserve. An indicator at six o’clock showcases the number of days remaining through a red aperture. A plate at three o’clock turns red when two days are left. Both are connected to a rack-and-pinion system at 12 o’clock, which slides from left to right as the mainspring in the two barrels (connected in parallel) unwinds.
02: Hublot Big Bang Meca-10
The entire mechanism of Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10, inspired by Meccano model-construction kits, is geared towards showcasing the watch’s impressive 10-day power reserve. An indicator at six o’clock showcases the number of days remaining through a red aperture. A plate at three o’clock turns red when two days are left. Both are connected to a rack-and-pinion system at 12 o’clock, which slides from left to right as the mainspring in the two barrels (connected in parallel) unwinds.
03: Panerai Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT
Panerai is known for its Calibre P.2002 with an eight-day power reserve, and there is also Calibre P.2003 (10-day supply). So Calibre P.2005/T, which drives this watch and has a six-day cache, does not break any internal records. That said, it bridges the gap between the ubiquitous three-day engines (Calibres P.4001 and P.4002) and eight-day motors. The six-day reserve comes courtesy of three spring barrels connected in series. An indicator on the back shows the remaining supply.
03: Panerai Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT
Panerai is known for its Calibre P.2002 with an eight-day power reserve, and there is also Calibre P.2003 (10-day supply). So Calibre P.2005/T, which drives this watch and has a six-day cache, does not break any internal records. That said, it bridges the gap between the ubiquitous three-day engines (Calibres P.4001 and P.4002) and eight-day motors. The six-day reserve comes courtesy of three spring barrels connected in series. An indicator on the back shows the remaining supply.
04: Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day Power Reserve
From Seiko’s dedicated Micro Artist Studio in Nagano comes this top-of-the-line, sparkling jewel of a watch (the dial glistens with a diamond-dust quality), equipped with an eight-day power reserve. The Spring Drive Calibre 9R01 hosts three barrels connected in series, and the springs unwind simultaneously, but three times slower than in a single barrel, thus lengthening the power supply. A power reserve indicator is located on the caseback.
04: Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day Power Reserve
From Seiko’s dedicated Micro Artist Studio in Nagano comes this top-of-the-line, sparkling jewel of a watch (the dial glistens with a diamond-dust quality), equipped with an eight-day power reserve. The Spring Drive Calibre 9R01 hosts three barrels connected in series, and the springs unwind simultaneously, but three times slower than in a single barrel, thus lengthening the power supply. A power reserve indicator is located on the caseback.

02: SIZING DOWN

A decade ago, supersized behemoths upwards of 44mm were all the rage. Five years later, the shift towards more reasonably sized 40mm and 42mm timepieces began. Now, this downward shift becomes even more pronounced, with the introduction of 36mm models.

01: Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G
With a white gold case 39.5mm wide and 12mm high, the 5930G is the world’s smallest watch with world-time and chronograph functions – and also marks the first time Patek Philippe is combining both complications in a watch (excluding a unique piece made for a client in 1940). It packs in two useful features – a 24 time zone world-timer and 30-minute chronograph, driven by the new Calibre CH 28-520 HU. The three-part dial features a hand-guilloche centre with stunning blue PVD treatment.
01: Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G
With a white gold case 39.5mm wide and 12mm high, the 5930G is the world’s smallest watch with world-time and chronograph functions – and also marks the first time Patek Philippe is combining both complications in a watch (excluding a unique piece made for a client in 1940). It packs in two useful features – a 24 time zone world-timer and 30-minute chronograph, driven by the new Calibre CH 28-520 HU. The three-part dial features a hand-guilloche centre with stunning blue PVD treatment.
02: Tudor Heritage Black Bay 36
While a lot of attention has gone to Tudor’s 2016 blockbusters, the Black Bay Dark and Black Bay Bronze, we believe that their little cousin, the Black Bay 36, deserves its share of adulation. Sure, it might not have an in-house movement like Tudor’s other aforementioned new releases – its engine is an ETA 2824 – but its 36mm chassis will sit better on slimmer wrists. And with a flat bezel and crystal, it is a more elegant proposition overall.
02: Tudor Heritage Black Bay 36
While a lot of attention has gone to Tudor’s 2016 blockbusters, the Black Bay Dark and Black Bay Bronze, we believe that their little cousin, the Black Bay 36, deserves its share of adulation. Sure, it might not have an in-house movement like Tudor’s other aforementioned new releases – its engine is an ETA 2824 – but its 36mm chassis will sit better on slimmer wrists. And with a flat bezel and crystal, it is a more elegant proposition overall.
03: IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36
From plus-sized models – 48 and 55mm – to waif-like nymphs – 36mm – IWC’s 2016 Pilot’s Watch collection runs the gamut of case sizes. This 36mm edition, the Automatic, is meant to be the dressiest of the lot, hence only the most essential information, time and date, has made its way onto the sunray-finished dial. Running on IWC Calibre 35111 and completed by a chic Santoni strap, the watch works well on both masculine and feminine wrists.
03: IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36
From plus-sized models – 48 and 55mm – to waif-like nymphs – 36mm – IWC’s 2016 Pilot’s Watch collection runs the gamut of case sizes. This 36mm edition, the Automatic, is meant to be the dressiest of the lot, hence only the most essential information, time and date, has made its way onto the sunray-finished dial. Running on IWC Calibre 35111 and completed by a chic Santoni strap, the watch works well on both masculine and feminine wrists.
04: Bremont AC-I 32 Ladies Chronometer
Previously a male-oriented brand heavy on military/aviation-inspired pieces plus chronographs and sports watches, Bremont this year decided to dangle a carrot for its female admirers. A few months after debuting its women’s Solo-32 collection, Bremont introduces the AC-I 32 Ladies Chronometer in a 32mm housing. Featuring a COSC-certified automatic movement buzzing at 4Hz, the watch is also differentiated by an embossed dial and is limited to 535 pieces.
04: Bremont AC-I 32 Ladies Chronometer
Previously a male-oriented brand heavy on military/aviation-inspired pieces plus chronographs and sports watches, Bremont this year decided to dangle a carrot for its female admirers. A few months after debuting its women’s Solo-32 collection, Bremont introduces the AC-I 32 Ladies Chronometer in a 32mm housing. Featuring a COSC-certified automatic movement buzzing at 4Hz, the watch is also differentiated by an embossed dial and is limited to 535 pieces.
05: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 39.5 mm
With the upgrade to new Metas-certified Master Chronometer movements came the opportunity for Omega to tweak its portfolio of classics. Among these is the Seamaster Planet Ocean, now housed in a 39.5mm case – in between the existing 37.5mm and 42mm varieties. Movement-wise, it sports Calibre 8801/8800 compared to the older 8615, while on the aesthetic front, two versions are offered: Sedna gold with brown ceramic bezel or bimetallic (Sedna gold and stainless steel).
05: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 39.5 mm
With the upgrade to new Metas-certified Master Chronometer movements came the opportunity for Omega to tweak its portfolio of classics. Among these is the Seamaster Planet Ocean, now housed in a 39.5mm case – in between the existing 37.5mm and 42mm varieties. Movement-wise, it sports Calibre 8801/8800 compared to the older 8615, while on the aesthetic front, two versions are offered: Sedna gold with brown ceramic bezel or bimetallic (Sedna gold and stainless steel).

03: BLACK MAGIC

Dark knights storm into the horological arena, brandishing stealthy coats of armour in the form of DLC, PVD and newer, high-tech materials like Breitlight. Yup – black, once again, is the new black.

01: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
Sheathed in a sleek black DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating, Bulgari’s Octo Ultranero collection targets a younger, trendier, sportier clientele, as compared to the regular Octo collection. Crowning the series is the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, a manually wound timepiece with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon, housed in a DLC-coated titanium case just 5mm thick. The three other Octo Ultranero novelties, comprising a chronograph, and two variations of a three-hander with date, come in cases crafted from DLC-coated steel.
01: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
Sheathed in a sleek black DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating, Bulgari’s Octo Ultranero collection targets a younger, trendier, sportier clientele, as compared to the regular Octo collection. Crowning the series is the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, a manually wound timepiece with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon, housed in a DLC-coated titanium case just 5mm thick. The three other Octo Ultranero novelties, comprising a chronograph, and two variations of a three-hander with date, come in cases crafted from DLC-coated steel.
02: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark
Housed in a black PVD (physical vapour deposition)-treated steel case with matching bracelet or distressed leather strap, this watch boasts the new COSC-certified in-house movement, MT5602, featuring a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. The red triangle on the diving bezel is a throwback to Tudor’s Submariners from the 1950s. On the dial, the Tudor rose has been replaced by the Tudor shield, which we feel is a better, more masculine fit.
02: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark
Housed in a black PVD (physical vapour deposition)-treated steel case with matching bracelet or distressed leather strap, this watch boasts the new COSC-certified in-house movement, MT5602, featuring a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. The red triangle on the diving bezel is a throwback to Tudor’s Submariners from the 1950s. On the dial, the Tudor rose has been replaced by the Tudor shield, which we feel is a better, more masculine fit.
03: Breitling Avenger Hurricane
Despite its militaristic styling and hulking 50mm diameter, Breitling’s Avenger Hurricane is an extreme featherweight, thanks to a new case material developed in-house. Called Breitlight (clearly, the name makes reference to its weight, rather than its colour), this high-tech polymer is reputedly six times lighter than steel, four times lighter than titanium, and harder than either. It is also antimagnetic and hypoallergenic. Calibre B12, the latest variant of Breitling’s base B01 calibre, drives this beast.
03: Breitling Avenger Hurricane
Despite its militaristic styling and hulking 50mm diameter, Breitling’s Avenger Hurricane is an extreme featherweight, thanks to a new case material developed in-house. Called Breitlight (clearly, the name makes reference to its weight, rather than its colour), this high-tech polymer is reputedly six times lighter than steel, four times lighter than titanium, and harder than either. It is also antimagnetic and hypoallergenic. Calibre B12, the latest variant of Breitling’s base B01 calibre, drives this beast.
04: Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black
As with previous Mille Miglia watches, the new GTS Automatic Speed Black is rife with bold, sporty accents. The black DLC-coated steel case and black dial serve as perfect foils to the oversized white numerals and red inflections, such as the race’s official logo at three o’clock, which surrounds the date aperture, and mimics the numbers on the doors and bonnets of competing cars. The strap boasts a 1960s Dunlop racing tyre-tread motif.
04: Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black
As with previous Mille Miglia watches, the new GTS Automatic Speed Black is rife with bold, sporty accents. The black DLC-coated steel case and black dial serve as perfect foils to the oversized white numerals and red inflections, such as the race’s official logo at three o’clock, which surrounds the date aperture, and mimics the numbers on the doors and bonnets of competing cars. The strap boasts a 1960s Dunlop racing tyre-tread motif.
Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
This timepiece resembles the lovechild of 2015’s Timewalker Urban Speed and Heritage Chronometrie Exotourbillon Minute Chronograph. In fact, it is driven by the same movement as the latter, Calibre MB R230, and hence also has the same functions. But, while the latter sported a classical rose-gold getup, this new model bears the modern city-slicker vibe of the Urban Speed, with its black-and-red colourway. Its case materials are modern, too: titanium, carbon fibre and DLC.
Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
This timepiece resembles the lovechild of 2015’s Timewalker Urban Speed and Heritage Chronometrie Exotourbillon Minute Chronograph. In fact, it is driven by the same movement as the latter, Calibre MB R230, and hence also has the same functions. But, while the latter sported a classical rose-gold getup, this new model bears the modern city-slicker vibe of the Urban Speed, with its black-and-red colourway. Its case materials are modern, too: titanium, carbon fibre and DLC.

04: REPEATING HISTORY

Old is gold as watchmakers reissue vintage classics to assert their horological heritage. Their audience? Fans of the originals as well as a newer crowd eager to catch up on what they missed the first time round.

01: Panerai Luminor 8 Days Set
Panerai’s pre-Vendome pieces – produced before the brand’s 1997 acquisition by the Vendome Luxury Group (today’s Richemont) – continue to attract healthy demand. Wise, then, for Panerai to release a 500-piece limited edition box set targeting collectors and enthusiasts. The set consists of two models created for Sylvester Stallone in 1996: a Luminor Black Seal with left-hand crown (PAM 649) and a Luminor Daylight with white dial and blue numerals/markers (PAM 650).
01: Panerai Luminor 8 Days Set
Panerai’s pre-Vendome pieces – produced before the brand’s 1997 acquisition by the Vendome Luxury Group (today’s Richemont) – continue to attract healthy demand. Wise, then, for Panerai to release a 500-piece limited edition box set targeting collectors and enthusiasts. The set consists of two models created for Sylvester Stallone in 1996: a Luminor Black Seal with left-hand crown (PAM 649) and a Luminor Daylight with white dial and blue numerals/markers (PAM 650).
02: Rado HyperChrome 1616
From its cushion case and multifaceted hands/markers to its characteristic vertical day-and-date aperture at six o’clock, Rado’s Hyperchrome 1616 is a faithful re-edition of a vintage piece produced in the 1960s and 1970s, the Cape Horn. The bimetallic tones (silver and gold) add a further vintage touch. What is modern is its case of grade 5 titanium, which has been strengthened with an “interstitial hardening treatment” that makes it almost as tough and scratch-resistant as ceramic.
02: Rado HyperChrome 1616
From its cushion case and multifaceted hands/markers to its characteristic vertical day-and-date aperture at six o’clock, Rado’s Hyperchrome 1616 is a faithful re-edition of a vintage piece produced in the 1960s and 1970s, the Cape Horn. The bimetallic tones (silver and gold) add a further vintage touch. What is modern is its case of grade 5 titanium, which has been strengthened with an “interstitial hardening treatment” that makes it almost as tough and scratch-resistant as ceramic.
03: Longines Railroad
The Longines Railroad pays tribute to the watches that the company produced for the rail service in the 1960s. This model derives its minimalist mien from a reference piece circa 1960, which was driven by Calibre 280, Longines’ first central seconds movement produced in 1958. The engine has been upgraded to Calibre L888.2 – hence the “R.R 888” on the dial – to fit the modern 40mm case, though the central seconds function remains.
03: Longines Railroad
The Longines Railroad pays tribute to the watches that the company produced for the rail service in the 1960s. This model derives its minimalist mien from a reference piece circa 1960, which was driven by Calibre 280, Longines’ first central seconds movement produced in 1958. The engine has been upgraded to Calibre L888.2 – hence the “R.R 888” on the dial – to fit the modern 40mm case, though the central seconds function remains.
04: Omega Speedmaster CK2998 Limited Edition
The classic Speedy 2998 never gets old, thanks to the limitless ways it can be reinterpreted with a simple change of dial colour or design detail. Enter this year’s version, a very handsome edition tinged with blue accents on the ceramic bezel, minute track and chronograph registers. The watch also features the iconic “lollipop” central chronograph seconds hand, a motif first used on reference CK2998-1, circa 1960. Powered by Calibre 1861, only 2,998 pieces exist.
04: Omega Speedmaster CK2998 Limited Edition
The classic Speedy 2998 never gets old, thanks to the limitless ways it can be reinterpreted with a simple change of dial colour or design detail. Enter this year’s version, a very handsome edition tinged with blue accents on the ceramic bezel, minute track and chronograph registers. The watch also features the iconic “lollipop” central chronograph seconds hand, a motif first used on reference CK2998-1, circa 1960. Powered by Calibre 1861, only 2,998 pieces exist.
05: Girard-Perregaux Laureato
Icons such as the Ingenieur, Nautilus and the Royal Oak epitomise the sport-luxe horological wave of the 1970s, which also gave rise to the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The original Laureato, circa 1975, is distinguished by an octagonal bezel, Clous de Paris-patterned dial, baton hands/markers, and integrated bracelet. Those same attributes define the 2016 update, except that its proportions have been nicely plumped up to contemporary dimensions. An automatic movement also replaces the quartz original.

05: BANDMATES

Keen on swopping your watch strap for a bracelet, or vice versa? No longer do you need to fuss around with tools or hotfoot it to your nearest watch retailer. A bevy of brands are making it a cinch to switch your straps for a different look each time.

01: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
Vacheron Constantin’s revamped Overseas line, including models like the Overseas Chronograph, has plenty going for it: good looks, new calibres, open casebacks. Amid the buzz, one feature that might be overlooked is the fast-changing strap system. Wearers simply have to release a catch on the underside of the strap and they can swop it for one of two other options provided (metal bracelet, and leather or rubber strap). As a bonus, the length of the metal bracelet can also be adjusted by up to 4mm.
01: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
Vacheron Constantin’s revamped Overseas line, including models like the Overseas Chronograph, has plenty going for it: good looks, new calibres, open casebacks. Amid the buzz, one feature that might be overlooked is the fast-changing strap system. Wearers simply have to release a catch on the underside of the strap and they can swop it for one of two other options provided (metal bracelet, and leather or rubber strap). As a bonus, the length of the metal bracelet can also be adjusted by up to 4mm.
02: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quick-change strap system made its debut with the Reverso Squadra, and now the technology has been applied across the entire refurbished Reverso collection, including updated Reverso Classic models like the one shown here. One significant improvement is the possibility of removing the folding buckle, which did not exist in the old system. The brand’s international marketing director Stephane Belmont says the move was partly inspired by women, who love changing their straps. Men, no doubt, will also appreciate this feature.
02: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quick-change strap system made its debut with the Reverso Squadra, and now the technology has been applied across the entire refurbished Reverso collection, including updated Reverso Classic models like the one shown here. One significant improvement is the possibility of removing the folding buckle, which did not exist in the old system. The brand’s international marketing director Stephane Belmont says the move was partly inspired by women, who love changing their straps. Men, no doubt, will also appreciate this feature.
03: Chopard Happy Sport 36mm
With much attention on the 40th anniversary of Chopard’s Happy Diamonds this year, this little number may just get glossed over. Shame, really, because it comes with a new interchangeable strap system that allows users to customise their timepieces, without having to trudge to their local jeweller. Black or white rubber straps are supplied with the watch, although Chopard will introduce new colours with the seasons – the summer 2016 palette includes sky blue, sea green and bright orange.
03: Chopard Happy Sport 36mm
With much attention on the 40th anniversary of Chopard’s Happy Diamonds this year, this little number may just get glossed over. Shame, really, because it comes with a new interchangeable strap system that allows users to customise their timepieces, without having to trudge to their local jeweller. Black or white rubber straps are supplied with the watch, although Chopard will introduce new colours with the seasons – the summer 2016 palette includes sky blue, sea green and bright orange.
04: IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘La Cumbre Volcano’
The latest addition to IWC’s series of Aquatimer watches that support the Charles Darwin Foundation comes in a black-and-red package, the red of the internal rotating bezel a nod to volcanic lava. The watch commemorates La Cumbre, an active volcano on the island of Fernandina. While it features IWC’s quick-change system, only one strap is provided – black rubber – but it’s good to know you can easily make the switch if you avail yourself of other strap options.
04: IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘La Cumbre Volcano’
The latest addition to IWC’s series of Aquatimer watches that support the Charles Darwin Foundation comes in a black-and-red package, the red of the internal rotating bezel a nod to volcanic lava. The watch commemorates La Cumbre, an active volcano on the island of Fernandina. While it features IWC’s quick-change system, only one strap is provided – black rubber – but it’s good to know you can easily make the switch if you avail yourself of other strap options.
05: Hublot Big Bang Pop Art ‘One Click’ 39mm
To mark the eighth anniversary of its Big Bang 38mm women’s watches, Hublot has launched a 39mm version with restyled details (such as numerals and indexes) and greater interchangeability. The last feature is made possible by the brand’s “One Click” strap-change system, which has been used in its men’s watches for some time now. The Big Bang Pop Art “One Click” 39mm comes with three different straps, and is available in a steel or King Gold case.
05: Hublot Big Bang Pop Art ‘One Click’ 39mm
To mark the eighth anniversary of its Big Bang 38mm women’s watches, Hublot has launched a 39mm version with restyled details (such as numerals and indexes) and greater interchangeability. The last feature is made possible by the brand’s “One Click” strap-change system, which has been used in its men’s watches for some time now. The Big Bang Pop Art “One Click” 39mm comes with three different straps, and is available in a steel or King Gold case.