The smoky disc
It’s a travesty that the mysterious elegance of gradated dials has been overlooked for so long. But H Moser & Cie is no longer alone in championing this beautiful style, as smoky discs by other major players drift onto the scene.
TAG HEUER: AUTAVIA ISOGRAPH
Tag Heuer’s returning Autavia collection is dominated by fume dials in various colours. The unusual hybrid of motor sports and aviation that gives the collection its name proves that combination can work as long as the ultimate design makes sense – which it does, thanks to the retro styling of its classic three-hand and date functions, bi-directional bezel, oversized crown and Arabic numerals. The bronze version with a green dial even lends a maritime influence. The fact that the Autavia Isograph watches use carbon-composite hairsprings just adds to their desirability.
PANERAI: SUBMERSIBLE CHRONO GUILLAUME NERY EDITION
The smoky look works well on textured dials too, as seen in the Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Nery Edition 47mm. It’s not just for the striking blue-black gradient dial and black DLC-coated titanium case that people have to fork out almost double the cost, compared to the standard Submersible Chrono – all 15 buyers will have a chance to free- dive with record-holding champion free diver Guillaume Nery himself.
AUDEMARS PIGUET: CODE 11.59 SELF-WINDING FLYING TOURBILLON
This is part of Audemars Piguet’s bold new Code 11.59 collection, which shows off an entirely new design with a round face, octagonal middle case, open-worked lugs and domed sapphire crystal, and it includes a version of its Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon in white gold with a smoked blue enamel dial. It is powered by the in-house Calibre 2950, one of three all-new movements made for the collection.
TUDOR: BLACK BAY BRONZE
Tudor’s Black Bay Bronze is still going strong after its first release three years ago, thanks to gorgeous new colourways keeping things fresh. For 2019, the palette is slate grey – gradated on the dial and solid on the bezel. The handsome contrast the shade creates against the bronze case and accents makes it a diving watch that is all too sophisticated for the open water.
RADO: TRADITION GOLDEN HORSE
Going full vintage is a recent speciality of Rado.
In addition to the Captain Cook Automatic Limited Edition, which was based on the original 1962 model, the ceramic expert has released the Tradition Golden Horse Limited Edition. It’s a faithful re-creation of the 1957 model, with the same 37mm steel case, gradated red and black dial, font and twin seahorse logo.
Days of our lives
Watchmakers must be feeling generous with their time and skill of late, given how many perpetual calendars have been unveiled this year. The technically demanding complication often inspires similarly impressive extras to join the fray for some over-the-top haute horlogerie but, this year, the focus lies solely on the king of all calendars.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE: MASTER ULTRA-THIN PERPETUAL ENAMEL
Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin are shaving off millimetres instead of dollars. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra- Thin Perpetual Enamel uses an updated JLC 868 movement, now the JLC 868A/2, and sacrifices just over 1mm of slimness in favour of a more symmetrical dial. The watch is still worthy of its name with a 10.44mm thick case, and has a significantly longer power reserve of 70 hours compared to the previous 38.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN: OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin continues to use its 1120 QP movement for a watch that measures 41.5mm by 8.1mm, but adds two variations – one with a pink gold case and blue dial, and one with a full gold bracelet and a silver- toned dial – to the range. And of course, like other Overseas models, this one comes with a convenient, tool-free strap-changing system.
IWC: BIG PILOT’S WATCH PERPETUAL CALENDAR SPITFIRE
IWC’s Spitfire collection is now entirely powered by in-house movements and its flagship is the limited- edition Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire. Only 250 pieces of this bronze watch have been made, though what lies beneath the green dial is the same 52615 calibre as its steel predecessor. It’s one of the few perpetual calendars out there that can be easily adjusted via the crown, and its moonphase display needs correction only every 577.5 years.
BAUME & MERCIER: CLIFTON BAUMATIC PERPETUAL CALENDAR
At 22,000 euros (S$33,600), the red gold Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar is another value option with an impressive movement for its price. The base Baumatic MB13-1975AC movement is upgraded with a perpetual calendar module, so it enjoys the other Baumatic features such as a five-day power reserve and magnetic resistance. It also needs servicing only once every seven years.
MONTBLANC: HERITAGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
While everyone appreciates a quantieme perpetual, not all can afford one. But thanks to brands like Montblanc, it just got (a little) easier. The Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar improves on the absurdly affordable Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar of 2014 (a mere $17,600 in steel) with a new movement and design. The automatic Calibre MB 29.22 runs at the standard 28,800vph with a power reserve of 48 hours, with the steel model going for just $23,700 and the 100-piece limited edition in red gold priced at $39,600.
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Tiny titans
Colossal watches and ultra-thin watches have had their moments over the past decade but attention seems to finally be turning towards smaller tickers. Their modest dimensions are a better fit (sometimes literally) for dressier occasions and there is a sense of humility that comes with not having a timepiece’s wrist presence do all the talking. Fine watchmaking isn’t always about grandstanding.
BAUME & MERCIER: CLIFTON BAUMATIC COSC
Some will prefer a pared-down design to go with a trimmer case size, and Baume & Mercier delivers that simplicity with the 39mm Clifton Baumatic COSC. The “warm white”, porcelain-like dial that debuted in last year’s Baumatic models gets paired this time with
red gold, while the crosshairs on the dial signify the inclusion of a COSC-certified movement.
AUDEMARS PIGUET: ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING CHRONOGRAPH
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak needs no introduction. Even with a 38mm case, the new Royal
Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is eminently recognisable. It’s still powered by the Calibre 2385 found in its larger siblings, which means a frequency of 3Hz and 40 hours of autonomy, but it is offered in two steel versions and one in full pink gold.
CARTIER: SANTOS-DUMONT
Smallest of them all is Cartier’s quartz-powered, entry-level Santos-Dumont. The two available sizes, 27.5mm and 31.4mm, are inspired by the original Santos’ proportions in the late 1970s. The options come in steel, two-tone and rose gold, and only with a leather strap, making these a pure expression of Cartier’s powerful design-driven DNA.
PANERAI: SUBMERSIBLE 42MM
Diving watches, especially ones made by Panerai, tend to be on the hefty side. Which is what makes the Panerai Submersible 42 noteworthy: It stands out for being small. But even without the usual 47mm proportions, it’s still a Submersible through and through, with the same Luminor- style crown guard, unidirectional notched bezel (in black or
blue ceramic), 300m of water resistance and power reserve of 72 hours.
GREUBEL FORSEY: BALANCIER CONTEMPORAIN
While it may not look it, the Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain is the smallest watch the renowned independent brand has made. Packed into its 39.6mm white gold case is a power-reserve indicator, off- centre hour and minutes dial, seconds subdial, and prominent in-house balance wheel and bridge. It’s impressively three-dimensional with a great deal
of finishing to admire, but downsized so as not to overpower the wrist.
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The best of times
Watchmakers are collectively dipping into nature’s bounty of inspiration this year with timepieces brought to life through vivid animal imagery. The elaborate, unusual creations on these pages are made possible only with the greatest artistic skills.
GRAFF: GYROGRAFF ENDANGERED SPECIES
Graff’s Gyrograff Endangered Species collection eschews realism for a dazzling abstract display achieved with diamond marquetry. Measuring 48mm, each of the five one-of-a-kind watches – bearing the likeness
of an elephant, tiger, panda, gorilla or rhinoceros – houses the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon, spherical moonphase and power-reserve indicator,
and is cased in white gold and set with baguette diamonds.
CHANEL: PREMIERE MIDNIGHT IN VENDOME
Chanel didn’t bother staying inside the lines, instead choosing to use its frog motif as a yellow gold and diamond-studded stand for its Premiere Midnight In Vendome clock ring. The matching gold timepiece in its mouth is quartz-powered and set with 34 baguette- cut diamonds. As if all this isn’t enough, this set also includes a yellow gold ring set with a yellow sapphire, diamonds and onyx.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN: MECANIQUES SAUVAGES
Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke arm, Les Cabinotiers, takes on the most demanding client requests. When it’s not building headline-dominating pieces like
the 57-complication Reference 57260, it’s building
its artistic portfolio with collections like the newly released Mecaniques Sauvages. Five of the 20 unique pieces have been revealed so far, featuring everything from eagles to giant pandas realised in engraving, marquetry and miniature painting and paired with the pinnacle of complications like repeaters and perpetual calendars.
BVLGARI: SERPENTI SEDUTTORI
In a similar vein, Bulgari’s Serpenti watches have almost always used the entire watch, from face to bracelet, to depict the now iconic snake design. And every year, it finds new ways to play with the blueprint. The Serpenti Seduttori is the last iteration, and its non-high-jewellery versions show off a new bracelet design that more closely resemble scales, compared to the more commonly used tubogas coils.
MB&F: MEDUSA
MB&F and clockmaker L’Epee’s 10th collaboration takes on the form of a jellyfish. The Medusa Clock’s shell is made from hand-blown Murano glass in pink, blue or green, and houses a 2.5Hz movement that tells time through two stacked rotating rings. It can be hung (showing off more Murano glass tentacles) or placed on a stainless steel and brass stand.
The new black
It won’t be long now before blue dials are considered mainstream enough to stop showing up in trend lists. But until that day comes, we’ll give it to the refreshing shade for still managing to elicit excitement from a community raised on black, white and silver dials.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE: MASTER ULTRA THIN MOON ENAMEL
For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the blue treatment was applied to the 100-piece limited edition Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel. The Calibre 925/2 (an update of the Calibre 925 first seen in the Master Ultra Thin Moon Phase) now has a generous power reserve of 70 hours over its predecessor’s 40, but it’s really the dial that deserves all the attention. Enamel and hand-guilloche are combined to create a result that proves the sum of fine details is truly greater than the parts.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN: PATRIMONY RETROGRADE
DAY DATE
It’s hard not to be thrilled at the prospect of new variations of Vacheron Constantin’s popular Patrimony watches. Three models, which include the Patrimony Retrograde Day Date pictured here, have been updated with pink gold cases and blue dials with a sunburst finish.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX: LAUREATO ABSOLUTE
Girard-Perregaux is utilising the colour in a big way with the new Laureato Absolute collection – an extension of the brand’s octagonal Laureato family. All three models, comprising a time-only, chronograph and world time, are 44mm in diameter, black, and frame sunburst dials that gradate from dark blue in the centre to black around the edges. It’s one way of distinguishing themselves from Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak collection, at the very least.
PIAGET: ALTIPLANO HIGH JEWELLERY
If Tiffany Blue recalls the hues of a robin’s egg, then Piaget Blue’s deep cast is supposed to lie somewhere between cobalt and a midnight sky – a blue that featured heavily in Piaget’s anniversary collections in 2017. Clearly it proved popular enough to resurface this year in the 36mm Altiplano High Jewellery watch which, despite its name, is fairly modest with just a bezel of baguette diamonds to add sufficient glamour to the restrained design of the Altiplano.
OMEGA: DE VILLE TRESOR
Omega has played with texture in the steel, blue- dialled version of its new De Ville Tresor watches. Fans have waited five years for a modern Tresor in steel, and it was well worth the wait considering it’s now equipped with the Master Chronometer-certified Master Co-Axial Calibre 8910.
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Long time coming
There are numerous alternatives to the round watch case but favour seems to be gathering around elongated shapes. It’s not hard to see why; their slender forms make excellent dress watches, and watchmakers have used these out-of-the-rectangular-box shapes to tell a little story.
HERMES: GALOP D’HERMES
For Hermes, the inspiration is clear: The Galop d’Hermes conceptualised by designer Ini Archibong was inspired by Hermes’ roots in the equestrian arts, and the saddle in particular. The specially designed Arabic numerals are not uniform but instead follow the curves and dimensions of the case. To keep its silhouette sleek, the crown is positioned at six o’clock.
LAURENT FERRIER: BRIDGE ONE
Independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier designed his first non-round watch, the Bridge One, based on the Passerelle
de I’lle bridge in Geneva, which he would often gaze at from his childhood bedroom. The shaped LF107.01 movement was built
to fit into the Bridge One case and, to the disappointment of some, is not equipped with his signature natural escapement but with a traditional Swiss
lever escapement instead. It does, however, have a welcome 80 hours of power reserve.
CHANEL: CODE COCO
Made to celebrate Chanel’s 30th anniversary two years ago, the Code Coco watch was so named for the many design codes of the Chanel 2.55 bag that inspired it. Not only does it follow the shape of the bag, it also shares the same quilted design. Its most arresting feature remains the clasp that sits in the middle of the dial – an exact replica of the handbag’s clasp – which is, curiously, where the watch is fastened.
CARTIER: BAIGNOIRE
Cartier’s equally venerable history stems from the wild creativity of Louis Cartier, creator of icons
like the Tank and Santos. Louis is also the father of the Baignoire, which he conceived in 1912. The “bathtub” shape has gone through countless transformations since, and this year’s interpretations include the adorably chubby Baignoire Watch Small Model
and its anorexic counterpart,
the Baignoire Allongee. Bold alterations, but stunning without a doubt.
BREGUET: REINE DE NAPLES 8967
Caroline Murat was such a dedicated patron of Breguet that she had the honour of being gifted with (possibly) the world’s first wristwatch in 1810 – the Reine de Naples. Two centuries on and the Reine de Naples collection has lost none of its allure, and in fact takes
a slightly more contemporary tone with the vivid blue lacquer dial and denim strap of the Ref. 8967.
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