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MCI (P) 064/11/2022. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2023 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.

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These fashion labels explore designing for the opposite gender

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Fashion & Watches

These fashion labels explore designing for the opposite gender

Brands from Simone Rocha to Peter Do have plotted their expansion plans by introducing new menswear and womenswear lines.

October 24, 2022
fashion labels Menswear Womenswear
Photo: Peter Do, Simone Rocha, CDLP, Stefan Cooke, Advisry

Spring/Summer 23 was a season that embodied courage and newness. In Milan, coveted young designer Maximillian Davis’ debut collection at Ferragamo displayed the best form of luxury sportswear the brand has shown recently – with genderless nuances of New Hollywood etched into some of the garments shown. Within Paris, Dazed’s editor-in-chief Ib Kamara showed his first collection at Off-White. Vastly different from his predecessor’s – the late Virgil Abloh’s – approach to design, his methodology pivots towards fictional worlds and symbolism instead of key motifs.

On top of these landmark shows, many fashion labels have plotted their expansion plans by introducing new menswear and womenswear lines this season. These endeavors have become somewhat of a spectacle to look forward to – it is always undeniably intriguing to see these brands reimagining their codes for the opposite gender. Ahead, a list of fashion labels making the foray into new menswear and womenswear lines.

Related: More fashion houses are bringing back denim and waist-centric outfits

https://www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg/gallery/fashion-watches/fashion-designer-brands-labels-gender-design-spring-summer/
These fashion labels explore designing for the opposite gender
1. Peter Do
custom

After three years of making androgynous womenswear, cult New York designer Peter Do has officially made his foray into menswear for Spring/Summer 2023 – and he did not disappoint. A touch of sensuality in the tailoring and leitmotifs like deconstruction in the form of cutouts and transformable garments – hallmarks of Do’s work since the start of his eponymous label – were seen throughout the collection. And of course, who better to wear such quality garments than a cast of celebrities like Tiktok style star Wisdom Kaye and Lee Jeno of the K-Pop group NCT? 

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A post shared by Peter Do (@the.peterdo)

2. Simone Rocha
custom

The haunting world of Simone Rocha now has men in it. Intending to reflect the beauty of masculinity, the menswear designs within the Spring/Summer 2023 show were almost an antithesis to what she had been making in the past. Notions of protection such as petticoat detailing, military garments and black tailoring introduced an almost paradoxical ruggedness into Rocha’s ideal of menswear, while softer details like ruching and the use of tulle seek to ground the look to the brand’s sensibilities.

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A post shared by SIMONE ROCHA (@simonerocha_)

3. CDLP
custom

Eco-conscious Swedish label CDLP has always been renowned for its ultra-luxe and insanely comfortable undergarments. Made out of Lyocell – a material created from renewable wood sources – the pieces provide unparalleled breathability and moisture-wicking properties. On top of that, Lyocell has a textural quality similar to silk – making its product desirable to slip into for a humid climate like ours. While the brand’s designs have mostly been targeted toward men, women can now enjoy the same sustainable comfort from its latest collection of essentials, which are now stocked on the brand’s site and Net-A-Porter.

Related: Fall/Winter Trend Report 2022: Fashion houses look back to their heritage for inspiration

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A post shared by CDLP (@cdlp)

4. Stefan Cooke
custom

In the brand’s Spring/Summer 23 show, half of the collection was womenswear – a testament to its intention to expand. Sequin-adorned reproductions of T-shirts with tongue-in-cheek slogans – sourced meticulously from eBay by Jake Burt, the co-founder of the brand – added a touch of humour to Cooke’s vision of womenswear. Taffeta bows were plastered across cocktail dresses and skin-tight tops. Upcycled garments, a Frankenstein-like approach to textures as well as medieval armour references all spoke of the main quality of a Stefan Cooke woman: graceful yet strong and always empowered

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A post shared by @stefan_cooke

5. Advisry
custom

Virgil-approved brand Advisrys recent show in New York Fashion Week – titled “Masculin Feminin” – paid homage to the recently deceased cinema legend, Jean-Luc Godard. Other than the usual graphic motifs seen on the streetwear label’s garments for Spring/Summer 2023, the collection also displayed a fully-formed range of womenswear. Influences of motorsport, Y2K and Victorian fashion could all be seen in founder Keith Herron’s vision of feminine clothing. The combination of pop culture references and making garments for the now has always served Advisry well and this time, it was no different.

 

This article was originally published in Female.

Related: This Singaporean fashion designer pushes the boundaries of the classic shirt

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A post shared by advisry (@advisry)

  • TAGS:
  • Advisry
  • CDLP
  • Fashion
  • Fashion Designers
  • Gender neutral fashion
  • Peter Do
  • Simone Rocha
  • Stefan Cooke
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MCI (P) 064/11/2022. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2023 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.