Three-Michelin-starred Les Amis features 30 to 40 varieties of mostly French cheeses, depending on the season. The selection of farmhouse cheeses that have been singled out by Manoh Sharma, resident cheese master, include the Buchette de Manon and Mistralou, both soft cheeses made with raw goat’s milk from Simiane-la-Rotonde in Provence (available March to October).

There are also Cosne de Port Aubry – soft raw goat’s cheese from the Bourgogne region (produced year round), and the Fromage du Maquis, a soft cheese made from pasteurised sheep’s milk in San Nicolao in Corsica, which is available in winter and spring. 

“As we move into summer, goat and sheep cheeses are at their best. We work closely with Mons Fromager Affineur (a third generation of a family of cheesemakers) who recommends both AOP and artisanal farmhouse cheese. I even had the opportunity to work directly with the farmers when it came to harvesting the milk. Hence, I had first-hand experience in milking the goat and sheep, and I was involved in the fermentation process for some of the cheeses stated below,” says Manoj.

Chef Sebastien Lepinoy carefully chooses accompaniments for the cheeses to provide balance and enhance the flavour. For example, sourdough accompanies comte to provide some acidity, and baguette with Vacherin Mont d’Or.

“During winter, the range of cheeses are more mature and develop a higher salt content. Hence, we pair winter cheeses with unsalted butter to balance the flavours. Blue cheese, which has a higher salt content, also pairs perfectly with unsalted butter. During summer, the cheese selections are young, so we like to serve them with a side of sea salt to give them a little lift.”

He adds, “This summer, our Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Recolte 2021”, has 50 percent more picholine (variety). The heavier use of picholine in this recipe leaves a light bitter taste on the palate to match the strength of the goat and sheep cheese this summer.”

As for wine pairing, Herve Pennequin, general manager and wine director says “in many ways, cheese finds its best ally with white wines. Hard cheese will go well with vin jaune, such as Chateau Chalon. Goat’s cheese pairs beautifully with crisp white wines, from the Loire Valley, either with the Sauvignon Blanc or the French Alps, with the Altesse or Jacquere grape varietals.”

“Some cheeses washed with either wine, spirit, or even beer, will naturally go hand-in-hand with the beverage used for the wash,” he adds. For instance, their Langres cheese goes through several washings with champagne and thus it can be served with a Damien Hugot Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru by for its elegance and gentle acidity.

Les Amis’ cheeses are available for retail too. Guests can purchase the cheese whole or opt for the Cheese Master Selection (slices of different types of cheese).

More info at Les Amis

Odette’s cheese selection usually consists of about 20 to 25 cheeses, depending on seasonality. Most of the cheeses are from artisanal cheese producers in France, with a considerable number from Chef Julien Royer’s hometown Auvergne. These include the Fourme d’Ambert, St Nectaire, Ecir de l’Aubrac, and Salers. There’s also Manigodine that is produced in small quantities in Manigod in Savoie, and Brin d’Amour from Corsica, the hometown of Julien’s wife.

“We have a few kinds of cheese that are exclusive to Odette, like the Comté d’Exception, aged 48 months, and the Organic Roquefort from Gabriel Coulet — which also happens to be one of Chef Julien’s favourite cheeses!,” says Dan Zenou, assistant manager who heads Odette’s cheese programme and works closely with suppliers in France.

Currently, Odette’s team is looking at sourcing two new cheeses that haven’t been brought into Singapore before. “The first is Fourme de Valcivières, which is a small production of cheese from Cantal. Chef Julien went back to his hometown recently and tried this cheese for the first time and enjoyed it very much. The second is from Oregon, Rogue River Blue Special Reserve. I tried this cheese while I was working in Vue de Monde, Melbourne, and absolutely loved it. It is exclusively produced only in autumn and released the following year in limited quantities,” he adds.

Dan says, “When the cheeses arrive, some of them will be aged in-house. For example, the Crottin de Chavignol is aged for one to two weeks; this process enhances the flavour and adds complexity to the cheese’s taste profile, making it slightly firmer than typical goat cheese. We also wash the camembert in-house and coat it with brioche and walnut crumble to recreate the ‘Camembert Au Calvados’ which is a traditional way of preparing the cheese in Normandy,”

The cheeses are usually served with an assortment of homemade crackers, grapes, walnuts, along with locally produced tea-tree honey from Singapore-based beekeeper Xavier Tan of Nutrinest, and jam from Christine Ferber. Honouring French tradition, the chefs also prepare a light salad with sourdough and fruit bread to pair with the cheeses. 

Dan likes to recommend pairings according to terroir, as wines and cheeses from the same area or region tend to partner well. For instance, the Comté with Vin Jaune, Sancerre with goat’s cheese, and Camembert Calvados with apple cider.

He adds that it’s important for the wines to help enhance the flavour profile of the cheeses. “For example, the Brin d’amour which is made from sheep’s milk and rolled in herbs will pair with the dry and herbaceous Albariño (Alvarinho). Creamy cheeses like Chaource, Coulommiers, or Manigodine are a good match with a fresh and crisp Chablis. And finally, my personal favourite — blue cheeses like Fourme Ambert and Roquefort are perfectly balanced with a vintage port or a sweet wine.

More info at Odette.

(Related: Where to buy cheese in Singapore)

Saint Pierre’s cheese selections are based on seasonality and availability. Currently, the two-Michelin-starred restaurant offers 18 types. Unique ones include the Bleu de Gex, produced in the mountains of the Jura region of France and recognised by the Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC).

It is made with cows’ milk and matured for a few months for the characteristic blue veins to form. The creamy, semi-blue cheese has mild aromas of earthy and nutty characters. Its flavours are buttery and rounded with a slightly spicy and peppery note.  The Bleu de Gex is best paired with 2013 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos or 1990 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes

Another unique one to savour is the Le Cesar Regalis – a blue cheese made with pasteurised sheep’s milk. It is produced by Dominique Bouchait of Les Fromagers du Mont Royal, based in Montrjeau in the Occitanie region of France. The soft cheese is lightly salted and is creamy with hints of earthiness. It is available all year round but best enjoyed between autumn and winter.

You can marry this cheese with whites such as 2009 Domaine Pithon-Paille Couteau des Treilles or 2018 Henri Bourgeois La Demoiselle de Bourgeois Pouilly Fume. Or a red wine like 2011 Domaine Anne et Herve Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Noirot.

Produced in France’s Auvergne region, Le Fumaison is made from raw Lacaune sheep’s milk. Matured by hanging from the roof of a cave for 100 days, the semi-hard cheese is then smoked with pine wood, giving it a smoky and light flavour with aromas of mushrooms. This is best matched with whites like 2015 Domaine Schlumberger Les Princes Abbes Riesling or 2018 Henri Bourgeois La Demoiselle de Bourgeois Pouilly Fume. Or a red wine: 2011 Domaine Anne et Herve Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Noirot.

Chef Emmanuel Stroobant says, “When you are enjoying a glass of wine with cheese, it is important that the acidity and sweetness play well together. A good pairing will have both elements cutting through creamy barriers to unlock fuller flavours on our palates while creating an excellent mouthfeel in tandem.”

More info at Saint Pierre.

Modern British restaurant Jaan by Kirk Westaway brings in a range of farmhouse cheeses from the UK and Ireland that are not commonly available here. For instance, the Shropshire Blue, a farmhouse cheese from Colston Bassett, Nottinghamshire, UK. This cow’s milk cheese has a balanced nutty, caramel and buttery taste with a touch of bitterness. The cheese matches well with aged colheita port (like Barao de Vilar Colheita Port 1990) that has fresh acidity, balance and a long finish with notes of dried candied fruits and citrus.  

There’s also Baron Bigod from Bungay, Suffolk, an intensely creamy and rich cow’s milk cheese that’s similar to brie. It showcases layers of mushrooms and earthy, vegetal notes that can be complemented with a fresh sparkling wine made from red fruits, such as Nyetimber’s rose. Jaan’s head sommelier, Rajeshwaran R. Gopal, says, “The Pinot Noir will uplift the mushroom flavours as the acidity cuts through the richness and refreshes the palate.

A must-try is the rich and savoury Devon Cheddar from executive chef Kirk Westaway’s hometown. “The complexity and taste profile of this cheddar varies at different stages of its age, which makes the pairing much more versatile. Anything from a bright oaked Chardonnay to a well-made bottle of rum would make a good pairing,” says the chef, who serves the cheeses with housemade date jam and apple chutney, as well as fig bread.

“An aged cheddar would work well too with nice tannins and the fruity character of a medium bodied red wine. Our choice would be Barbera from Piedmont (Giacomo Conterno Vigna Francia, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2019), which exhibits plums, dried herbs and vibrant freshness,” adds Rajeshwaran.

More info at Jaan by Kirk Westaway.

(Related: Fancy some locally aged cheese?)