“I cook some over charcoal in traditional brass moulds as well. For example, Kueh Bakar Berlauk is cooked by pouring batter into brass moulds, covering them and then placing charcoal over the lids that act like ovens. You can find this dish at Malay hawker stalls. It is typically made with minced beef, sliced red chilli and coriander. I use mud crab and crème fraiche, uni and caviar for my version,” he says, adding that while the cooking is still traditional, the ingredients are elevated.

Another creation is his take on Nasi Kerabu, a traditional Kelantanese and Terengganuan staple. “There are many Thai influences in Kelantan cuisine because it is located near Southern Thailand. So I decided to do my own version.” Whereas the original is typically tinged blue with butterfly pea flowers, his version is yellow and infused with ghee, coconut milk, spices and aromatics. It also comes with different components and textural contrasts, such as pomegranate, pomelo, lemongrass, puff rice, ulam raja flowers, and herbs. Plus, it is served with a short rib rendang.

The Malay archipelago is vast and includes the Riau Islands in Indonesia, so it isn’t just about nasi padang, rendang, sambal and lontong.

To ensure his Malay flavours remain authentic, Asyraffie learned to cook from his mother, who prepares many traditional dishes at home. For this current menu, he went to his parents to find out more about traditional dishes, but he likes to inject his own creativity into them. He also gets inspiration from his travels around the region. “My grandparents are from Malaysia. My mum’s side is from Malacca, which is famous for assam pedas, and my dad is from Negeri Sembilan, which is known for rendang.”

Related: Kevin Wong, chef-owner of Seroja stirs a melting pot of flavours across the Malay Archipelago

According to the chef, Malay food has a lot of potential. “The Malay archipelago is vast and includes the Riau Islands in Indonesia, so it isn’t just about nasi padang, rendang, sambal and lontong,” says Asyraffie, who is determined to explore his heritage.

He has started using regional ingredients, such as Andaliman pepper from Medan that is similar to Sichuan peppercorn and has a lemon-like aroma, warm peppery flavor, and creates tongue- numbing sensation. North Sumatra has an Indonesian equivalent of ceviche marinated with lime juice and peppers. Asyraffie serves chickpea crackers with Japanese hamachi fish cured with Andaliman pepper that’s then smoked and aged. He also finishes it with a sprinkling of the pepper.

Currently, Asyraffie continues to experiment with different modern Malay dishes as well as drinks like kombucha between courses. He plans to relocate to a new address by April 2023, but ultimately wants to find a permanent space for Arang.

Price: $185 per person; each booking is for a party of six only

Location: Beach Road

Reservation: www.arang.as.me

Related: Khir Johari is here to change your idea of Malay food

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