Foodie Holiday is a series that features food recommendations by chefs and personalities from their holidays abroad.
Louis Han took a break from running his kitchen and went to Japan recently. It’s been 10 years since he last visited the historic and charming city of Kyoto. This also happens to be his first time to Nagoya, a manufacturing and shipping hub in central Honshu. The chef decided to visit a good friend who lives in the city and spend a few days there. We find out more about his culinary trail in these two Japanese cities.
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Which restaurants did you visit in Kyoto that were most memorable for you?
My most memorable meal was enjoyed on a rainy morning at Honke Owariya, a 558-year-old soba restaurant in Kyoto that supplies its soba to the Imperial Palace and Kyoto’s Zen Buddhist temples. I appreciate anything with a history, so there’s something magical about visiting a very old family-run restaurant that’s been around for generations. The restaurant and shop is one of the oldest F&B establishments in Asia and the world that is still operating; and in its original location no less. Apart from this first impression, I was also blown away by the soba. The texture is slightly resistant when you bite it; but just enough. ‘Al dente’ may not be the best word since soba is less firm than a pasta, but it’s somewhat close to it. The dipping broth has a clean soy taste, which made the whole experience of enjoying the soba very pure and wholesome.
I also had the privilege of visiting the three-Michelin-starred Hyotei this time round. The multi-generational family-run kaiseki restaurant has more than 400 years of rich history; it’s housed on the grounds of the Nanzenji Temple. The main area of the building has been preserved and remains largely unchanged, so dining there felt like I was transported back in time. One of the menu highlights is the Hyotei Tamago, a traditional soft-boiled egg offered to travellers who approach the temple 450 years ago.
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Could you recommend a couple of your favourite fine dining and casual restaurants in Nagoya?
In Nagoya, we went to a casual coffee shop called Komeda’s Coffee with my friend’s family. You will need to forget about dieting for a moment as their signature item is a giant flaky puff pastry with a tall dollop of ice cream and maple syrup. You can find Komeda’s Coffee all across Japan, but the very first shop opened in Nagoya.
Did you find any inspiring fresh produce from these places during your recent trip?
It was exciting to see the fresh seafood on offer at Nishiki Market in Kyoto. The seasonal ingredients in Japan definitely inspired me to create new dishes as well.
Did you head to any hidden gems that only locals know?
During my time in Kyoto, I stayed in a small boutique hotel along Nijo-dori, a quiet residential area with small bakeries, wine bars and pottery stores. Unfortunately, we did not take down any of their names. But if you take a walk around, there are many small independent stores in Japan worth wandering and getting lost in.
My wife and I also very randomly stumbled upon a curry shop called Ohmiya Seiuemon. We caught a whiff of something delicious and just walked into the shop. We just discovered that the owner is temporarily closing the shop to relocate to a more popular area this summer.
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What edible souvenirs should people buy from Nagoya/Kyoto?
In Kyoto, I would recommend Honke Owariya’s soba confectionary store, which is still open next to its soba restaurant.
If you are exploring the vicinity of Nagoya, Inuyama is an idyllic town an hour away by train. During our visit, my wife discovered a store called ‘若松屋阡’, which sells fresh seasonal mochi. When we visited, they had flavours such as sweet potato and strawberry. The store also offers red bean dorayaki and sesame monaka. Each packet of confectionery is packed by hand, so we had to wait quite a while for the shop owner to pack our box of edible souvenirs; in the meantime, we were snacking on their fluffy mochis.
Which dining destinations do you want to visit for your next trip to Japan?
I am planning to explore Osaka and Sapporo next, where I’ll be on the hunt for cosy izakayas and refreshing beer!