Some people wear their patriotism on their sleeve. Hidemasa Yamamoto shows it on plates – not just at his 11 restaurants, including that in Singapore, but also in an episode of Fresh Off Japan!, a new TV series airing on the Asian Food Channel.
In the programme which showcases a range of dishes made with Japanese produce, the 59-year-old presents an eight-course menu, including an A4 grade wagyu tenderloin from the island of Kyushu. He lovingly swaddles the 2kg slab first with dry straw, then coats it with a combination of flour, water and rock salt. The parcel is then oven-baked for up to an hour, and cooled for 20 minutes before it is unwrapped in front of guests and grilled over the robata. For a dramatic finale, Yamamoto adds straw to the fire, resulting in an explosion of flames. “I do it for the visual effect and to let the beef have a more smoky flavour,” he explains.
Yamamoto’s elaborate treatment of the ingredient is an expression of his reverence and love for the produce of his homeland. He fears that the Trans-Pacific Partnership agreement reached on Oct 5, 2015 – which involves the lowering of trade barriers among member states, including Japan – will flood the Japanese market with cheaper produce and force artisanal growers and food producers out of business. Thus, he now makes it an even bigger personal mission to highlight outstanding Japanese ingredients.
Among these are ping pong ball-sized Ruby Roman grapes, grown entirely in the Ishikawa prefecture, that cost $250 per bunch to import. Another is the forehead of the tuna, close to the brain – a 100kg fish yields only 150g of meat, making it a prized cut.
He might get his ideas from more than 15 years spent cooking in Italy, France and the US, but equally inspiring to him are the ingredients he receives three times a week from his home country. “Japanese producers are seeking perfection for themselves and their customers; as chefs, we must remember that and try to bring it out.”
Fresh Off Japan! airs on the Asian Food Channel on Dec 17, 2015.
From fish and meat to fruit, chef Hidemasa Yamamoto dishes out tips on how to choose the best ingredients to make that memorable Japanese meal.
TENDERLOIN FROM KYUSHU, A4 GRADE
The meat should be wrapped with a thick layer of white-coloured fat that is unblemished by red spots.
SIRLOIN FROM KYUSHU, A4 GRADE
The marbling on the meat should be fine and S-shaped.
MUSK MELON FROM SHIZUOKA, 80 PER CENT SWEETNESS LEVEL
To ensure the fruit is saccharine, the grain on the skin should be finely patterned and densely arranged.
OTORO FROM OMA
The ideal tuna belly should be greasy on touch, have fine marbling, and be both bright and light pink colour.
KIME FROM SHIZUOKA
When viewed from its rear, this winter fish should have a voluminous bubble ballooning out from the area near the tail that indicates fat storage.
NODOGURO FROM ISHIKAWA
The next most expensive fish after tuna at $120 per kg, this fish is chosen in a way similar to the kime by identifying a sizeable fat storage near its rear.
