[dropcap size=small]C[/dropcap]hef-owner Andrew Walsh calls this 40-seater a “fine-dining bistro”, but it is a lot more than that. The space might be plain but is properly renovated – no cost-cutting exposed ceiling masquerading as “industrial chic” here. There might not be linen on the tables, but dishes are served on bespoke plates. The waiters might not be wearing jackets, but if you look closely, they are all carrying identical pens, under Walsh’s orders. Walsh is clearly one with a fierce attention to detail, and we like to think that he has cherry-picked the most essential details that contribute to an exceptional dining experience and focused on perfecting them at this first solo venture, opened in 2015.
Similarly, his dishes present the essence of the best seasonal produce he can get his hands on. The tasting menu changes monthly, while the a la carte menu gets updated every three months. When we visited in March for lunch, a starter of tender sous vide squid “noodles”, marinated with lemon peel, olive oil and thyme, and served in a clear apple consomme dotted with nettle-and-oyster emulsion, bowled us over with its intense, refreshing flavours. A grilled fillet of mackerel sitting atop a bed of taramasalata, and blanketed by a potato ribbon dusted with dehydrated pea and cucumber powder, presented a supremely well-calibrated mix of a variation of delicate textures.
For its haute-cuisine quality, Cure’s items are extremely well-priced, with a five course lunch menu at just $69. The sharp-eyed will notice a $1 donation per diner included in the bill – this goes to helping to supply the needy with essential food items, through a collaboration with The Food Bank Singapore. The donation is optional, and Walsh puts in the money if any diner declines to donate – very classy.
21 Keong Saik Road, S(089128)