[dropcap size=small]M[/dropcap]any remember Saha at Duxton for its quirky, cosy interior, and edgy reinterpretations of Indian cuisine. The latter half has carried over well to a more spacious, albeit less colourful space in National Gallery – and it complements what the modernity chef-patron Abhijit Saha struck out to achieve with the food.

Resident chef Pritam Singh Sodhi continues to realise Saha’s vision with no less than eight menus, which work the myriad subtleties of Indian spice into new formats with mostly European techniques. After an amuse bouche of pappadum and chutney, a popsicle is served. Only it’s not dessert but a palate cleanser made of perfect parts apple, cinnamon, brine and fennel, which soothes the tongue and leaves it pining for the next dish.

Saha certainly doesn’t shy away from using molecular techniques to tease out flavour nuances – and to great effect, too. A masala uttapam – essentially a dollop of masala chutney parceled in dosa – when bitten into, collapses in a satisfying fashion, yielding a rich and zesty ooze.

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The newfangled wine display is stocked with a modest selection, including a few Indian labels that have been curated with pairing in mind. Add that to solid service and a vast and evolving array of options, and diners are in for a curious treat.

SAHA Signature Indian Restaurant & Bar
#01-03 National Gallery Singapore
T 6844-6844

The full list of Singapore’s Best at
G Restaurant Awards 2016.

All tastings conducted incognito with esteemed members of G’s Food Panel.