[dropcap size=small]O[/dropcap]ne of the last of Singapore’s golden era of hotel fine-dining rooms, Gordon Grill may not be hip or be a place that people go to see and be seen, but it’s still a stalwart establishment that punches well in its age class – at over 50 years old. The latest refurbishment of the restaurant has seen it take on a pastel palette, which just means that the food, service and dinner conversation will have to take centre stage.

Slurp-worthy cold capellini pasta, with green lip abalone and caviar, and a side sprinkle of hae bi hiam, is served in Gordon Grill’s classic and elegant dining room.

Gordon Grill is not one of those restaurants where the entire dining party has to order the dinner degustation menu, which is a good thing. We supplemented that with other dishes from the a la carte.

The trio du soupe was a firm favourite, three little cups bearing a classic consomme, lobster bisque and tomato soup on the day we went, all classically executed with the requisite potency and fragrance. The first course of the degustation was a cold capellini pasta – a dish that has achieved a cult following with its appearance on quite a few restaurant menus and usually served with uni and truffl e oil – here served with green lip abalone, farm caviar and white truffle vinaigrette. A side sprinkle of hae bi hiam (dried shrimp sambal) was like an insider nod to where we were at, and it provided a spicy kick and textural contrast.

Many people who come to Gordon Grill do so because of its meat trolley – a European grill room-style presentation where various grades of beef are presented, selected, sliced and cooked to guests’ preferences. Although we had already selected the US Angus beef tenderloin from the degustation menu and ordered lamb chops from the a la carte, restaurant executive Krishna presented the trolley to us anyway – “for your next visit”, he said.

A must-order dessert is the crepes suzette – we think it’s the best table-side preparation we’ve ever seen. Krishna did it with such flair and care, while making sure that the Grand Marnier-spiked orange-caramel sauce was reduced to the right consistency. It was presented with a flourish – a balanced dish that was neither too sweet nor too tart. That, in essence, is what Gordon Grill is: a solid restaurant with a good classical foundation and occasional flashes of brilliance.

Goodwood Park Hotel, S(228221)
Tel: 6730-1744

The full list of Singapore’s Best at
G Restaurant Awards 2017.

All tastings conducted incognito with esteemed members of G’s Food Panel.