VLV Singapore

Restaurants by the thrumming Clarke Quay waterfront usually go all out to signpost their existence with promoters or pull-up posters. Not VLV. Launched in 2016, the modern Chinese a air helmed by chef Martin Foo occupies the second floor of a heritage building. There’s a fierce pride and keen inventiveness in Foo’s dishes, coupled with obviously premium ingredients, yet we were the only souls in the 50-odd seater for the entire dinner sitting. The courtyard bar facing the river was seemingly more popular that evening.

Nothing in the extravagantly refurbished interior, save the creaky carpeted stairs (read: no lift), hints at the building’s heritage status. Ascend these and you’re greeted by a dignified palette of creams and browns, leather and marble, haloed by dim lights.

Then the abundance of faux fur and oversized crystal candleholders becomes apparent, and edges the decor towards kitschy. It does, however, make for striking pictures.

The food is equally dolled-up, but there’s definitely substance to match the style. The quintessential char siew, served fanned out on black slate, is a redolent a air of succulent, melt-in-mouth fat, caramelisation and a bold tail of char to prepare the palate for more slices. Excellent and befitting treatment for kurobuta from Kagoshima.

Check marks, too, for staples such as the hearty kimchi fried rice, served with a gooey 63-degree egg in which you can slather your seaweed-coated, umami-infused grains. Then there’s the brazen subversion of perennial Singapore favourite orh nee (yam paste) – served cold instead of piping hot, pureed instead of sauteed with lard, topped with coconut ice cream, and peppered with pumpkin flesh and seeds. That last addition is highly unorthodox, but results in a brilliant confluence of earthy and piquant.

With such consistent attention paid to almost every menu item, it’s a shame the restaurant has seen declining patronage (we asked) – so much so that certain big-ticket signatures have gone on pre-order-only basis so as to reduce food wastage. Be sure to look up the menu and call ahead if you have your eye on delicacies such as beggar’s chicken or Peking duck.

VLV SINGAPORE

#01-02, 3A River Valley Road, Clarke Quay, S(179020)

T 6661-0197

The full list of Singapore's Best at

G Restaurant Awards 2018.

All tastings conducted incognito with esteemed members of G's Food Panel.