Did you know the Japanese power suit is meant to wear like a cardigan?

Much is known about Japanese precision engineering and even watchmaking, but did you know that the same exceptional rigour and quality standards are applied to fine tailoring? 

That’s no surprise: The culture of suit-wearing is long and deeply embedded in the country’s history, said Kozo Kawamura, founder of Colony Clothing at UE Square. Add to that the distinctive flair the Japanese have in styling their clothes, and you get the impeccable parade out in the streets of Tokyo.

“Japanese style is defined by the mixing of opposites. It’s not put together in a rushed way. Even though two different things are combined, it looks natural,” added the entrepreneur, who recently brought renowned fashion brand BEAMS Japan’s made-to-order (MTO) tailoring service to Singapore for a three-day trunk show.

Exemplifying this knack is Tatsuya Nakamura, the creative director of BEAMS, a nearly 50-year-old brand esteemed for its expertise in blending traditional European style with top-notch Japanese craftsmanship. Instead of rigid construction, its power suits embody lightness, softness, and ease of movement — key for long workdays in bustling Tokyo.

During an hour-long session, he paired up with suiting master Tamao Shirai, who develops the MTO department’s patterns and fits, to take The Peak Singapore through making a flawless outfit.

Above and beyond

Most tailoring services require multiple fittings over months; delivery takes up to a year. BEAMS’ process is, however, remarkably efficient — just one detailed measurement session is needed for a suit to be ready in about three months. The secret? Shirai-san’s ability to capture oft-overlooked anatomical details.

Unlike regular tailors who rely on generic patterns, BEAMS experts assess posture, shoulder and chest slope, hip profile, and whether a client sits or stands more frequently. “There’s a lot of touching of the client’s body to understand his bone structure,” noted Nakamura, who added that’s the reason his all-men team does not serve female clientele.

While the experts used a set of sample suits to match a client during the single customisation session, micro-adjustments are nailed down to the millimetre. “We ensure there’s no gaping at the chest and neck nape. We examine how the trousers drape when sitting versus standing, and we address body asymmetry,” stated Nakamura. 

Plenty of specifics, down to the minutiae, are considered. Unlike most made-to-measure suits based on standard templates and default options, BEAMS’ sleeves are curved inwards to follow the natural bend of the arms at rest, yet offer freedom of movement without creasing or rippling. The same attention is applied to how the suit fits over the entire torso.

“The overall silhouette has to be elegant and body-skimming. When the trousers’ zip lines up perfectly in between the jacket’s front panels, it will make the wearer look taller.” 

This exacting level of customisation ensures that the suit adapts to the wearer’s body, not vice versa. For instance, a salesperson who stands all day will have a slightly different cut than an executive who spends hours seated in meetings. 

The best thing is that such quality does not come with a hefty price tag: BEAMS’ made-to-order two-piece suits start from $2,030, while a jacket and pair of trousers cost $1,450 and $660, respectively. Should alterations be needed due to a significant change in client physique, Colony Clothing has appointed a local tailoring partner approved by BEAMS to make the necessary amendments.

Hidden luxury

Where some tailors may neglect the importance of internal construction, BEAMS insists on luxury even in unseen details. Its suits use premium interlinings for optimal structure, comfort, and breathability. All MTO suits ordered through Colony Clothing are fully canvassed using horsehair or camelhair, providing utmost longevity.

“Other brands might use cheaper materials inside since customers won’t see them. For what we offer, one may not notice the differences but will certainly feel them,” said Nakamura, who opened various fabric and button books to unveil samples in multiple patterns and colours. 

“We believe true quality lies in what’s hidden, and would have a conversation about the choices for all such details. Customers also have the option to mix and match the interlinings, sleeve linings, and buttons for a truly personalised garment.” 

There are other surprises that point to the fastidiousness of Japanese suit-making: Some seams are hand-stitched, while the rest are machine-sewn at a deliberately slow speed to replicate the quality of hand-craftsmanship.

The rectangular-cut collar segment is meticulously shaped into a curved piece, which requires an hour of ironing to ensure it is flush against the neck without gaps. The jacket’s chest pieces are molded to avoid shoulder strain, and the lapels are shaped by pressing and bending the fabric so that they drape smoothly. 

Even Kawamura, who had worked for BEAMS for 17 years before moving to Singapore and setting up his boutique here over 11 years ago, felt compelled to share this sentiment: “Most jackets are stiff, but a BEAMS one wears like a cardigan.”

Art of slow fashion

Rejecting mass-production shortcuts is just one aspect of BEAMS’ MTO tailoring. Its take on slow fashion also involves offering limited-edition deadstock fabrics from legendary mills like Carlo Barbera and Drapers, as well as vintage selections from premium European brands like Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Aristons, and Subalpino. Some have been archived for decades, some have been lost to time, and one piece has only 7m left.

Nakamura-san is a veteran at material sourcing, having spent over 30 years continuously going on bi-annual buying trips to a textile warehouse in Cyprus. BEAMS’ long-standing as a major fashion company also affords it access to exclusive fabrics made only for certain designer brands.

For the Singapore trunk show, BEAMS’ first-ever globally, Nakamura handpicked the softest, lightest wools and silk blends that resist humidity while maintaining comfort and refinement. Among them were classic solid colours, along with unique plaid, windowpane, and gingham patterns rarely seen on suited men here. 

He personally guided customers through the choices, explaining the origins and properties of each material and recommending the best for the wearer’s lifestyle. For our tropical climate, he suggested lightweight wools with open weaves. He also recommended slightly heavier fabrics, like cashmere blends, for those who work in air-conditioned offices for extended periods.

Standouts were navy fabrics woven with subtle colour variations — understated yet distinctive. Another was a wool-silk mix with a faint sheen that is subtle enough for business yet beautiful in sunlight. And there was a vintage Drapers tweed, a fabric rarely seen outside Japan.

“Singaporeans often stick to plain-coloured suits,” Nakamura observed. “But when they saw this, they realised they could embrace individuality without sacrificing sophistication.”

As the trunk show concluded, this exceptional experience had gained BEAMS and Colony Clothing 30 new suiting enthusiasts as customers, half of whom are Singaporeans. So overwhelming was the event’s success that BEAMS is planning to return to our shores, possibly within this year, with a new fabric selection.

On the locals’ interest in Japanese sartorial culture, Kawamura said, “Singaporeans are becoming more keen on coordination — not just wearing brands, but understanding how to put together an outfit that reflects their personality.” 

Despite our nation’s semi-formal corporate culture and the increasing relaxation of office attire rules, he made this valid point: “Even though companies say wearing suits is not necessary anymore, many still do, because when done right, a good suit makes you look sharp and confident.”