These fashion labels explore designing for the opposite gender

After three years of making androgynous womenswear, cult New York designer Peter Do has officially made his foray into menswear for Spring/Summer 2023 – and he did not disappoint. A touch of sensuality in the tailoring and leitmotifs like deconstruction in the form of cutouts and transformable garments – hallmarks of Do’s work since the start of his eponymous label – were seen throughout the collection. And of course, who better to wear such quality garments than a cast of celebrities like Tiktok style star Wisdom Kaye and Lee Jeno of the K-Pop group NCT? 

The haunting world of Simone Rocha now has men in it. Intending to reflect the beauty of masculinity, the menswear designs within the Spring/Summer 2023 show were almost an antithesis to what she had been making in the past. Notions of protection such as petticoat detailing, military garments and black tailoring introduced an almost paradoxical ruggedness into Rocha’s ideal of menswear, while softer details like ruching and the use of tulle seek to ground the look to the brand’s sensibilities.

Eco-conscious Swedish label CDLP has always been renowned for its ultra-luxe and insanely comfortable undergarments. Made out of Lyocell – a material created from renewable wood sources – the pieces provide unparalleled breathability and moisture-wicking properties. On top of that, Lyocell has a textural quality similar to silk – making its product desirable to slip into for a humid climate like ours. While the brand’s designs have mostly been targeted toward men, women can now enjoy the same sustainable comfort from its latest collection of essentials, which are now stocked on the brand’s site and Net-A-Porter.





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In the brand’s Spring/Summer 23 show, half of the collection was womenswear – a testament to its intention to expand. Sequin-adorned reproductions of T-shirts with tongue-in-cheek slogans – sourced meticulously from eBay by Jake Burt, the co-founder of the brand – added a touch of humour to Cooke’s vision of womenswear. Taffeta bows were plastered across cocktail dresses and skin-tight tops. Upcycled garments, a Frankenstein-like approach to textures as well as medieval armour references all spoke of the main quality of a Stefan Cooke woman: graceful yet strong and always empowered

Virgil-approved brand Advisrys recent show in New York Fashion Week – titled “Masculin Feminin” – paid homage to the recently deceased cinema legend, Jean-Luc Godard. Other than the usual graphic motifs seen on the streetwear label’s garments for Spring/Summer 2023, the collection also displayed a fully-formed range of womenswear. Influences of motorsport, Y2K and Victorian fashion could all be seen in founder Keith Herron’s vision of feminine clothing. The combination of pop culture references and making garments for the now has always served Advisry well and this time, it was no different.
 

This article was originally published in Female.

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