Love TV drama Shogun? Then KAI Anjin is where you need to go for your next Japanese onsen retreat

If you’ve been swept away by the political intrigue, cultural beauty, and cinematic power of Shogun, there’s a place in Japan where that epic tale feels strikingly real. The seaside town of Ito, on the Izu Peninsula, is not just another picturesque onsen destination — it’s where the true story that inspired Shogun began. 

Here, in the early 1600s, William Adams, an English navigator who became the first westerner to be granted samurai status, once lived and worked under the patronage of the powerful shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu.

From being shipwrecked on Japan’s shores to his rise as a trusted adviser and shipbuilder to Ieyasu. Adams’ extraordinary life was the spark behind James Clavell’s legendary 1975 novel Shogun, which was later adapted into the globally acclaimed FX/Hulu series. While the drama itself isn’t set directly in Ito, it draws heavily on the pilot navigator’s real-life experiences there, including his shipbuilding projects and his transformation from foreign sailor to samurai.

Today, travellers can revisit that fascinating cross-cultural chapter at Hoshino Resorts’ KAI Anjin, a contemporary ryokan that pays tribute to Adams’ legacy. Staying at the property feels like stepping into a quiet continuation of that East-meets-West story, where samurai heritage comes wrapped up in modern Japanese luxury. 

First impressions

My drive, an easy one to KAI Anjin from Tokyo Haneda Airport, takes just over two hours (or about 100 minutes by train from central Tokyo). A small wooden bridge over a gushing stream greets me on arrival, and upon crossing it, I step into a manicured garden opening right into the ryokan’s sleek lobby. Compact but serene, the space immediately sets the tone for my two-night sojourn: a tranquil oasis with a maritime soul. 

Soothing cream and brown hues form the backdrop for nautical-inspired furniture, wooden accents, and decorative objects that bring Ito’s seafaring past to life. A small retail section offers pretty keepsakes, a travel library features music records and interesting guidebooks, while the Black Tea Voyage counter allows guests to enjoy a variety of exotic teas originating from the maritime trade routes once sailed by William Adams.

All guests are invited into the cosy lobby lounge for a 15-minute cultural screening, part of the resort’s Journey of English Samurai programme. The beautifully animated film recounts the tale of Adams, known locally as Miura Anjin, who directed the building of Japan’s first Western-style sailing ship right here in Ito. With the projection screen swaying gently, as if to evoke being out at sea, it’s hard not to feel transported into a story that once inspired Shogun.

Checking in for my stay feels like crossing a threshold into absolute calm. All 45 ocean-view rooms, designed by Japan’s renowned studio Super Potato, continue the hotel’s theme of sea voyages with ship-inspired artwork adorning the walls. The decor is restful and understated, with KAI’s signature Fuwa-kumo Sleep bedding — a cloud of comfort — ensuring deep rest after a long journey. 

Large windows frame the ever-changing seascape of Sagami Bay, which is peppered with eagles and hawks circling overhead — an entrancing sight thoroughly enjoyed from a partitioned sitting area in my wood- and stone-lined room. Thoughtful amenities reflect the omotenashi (wholehearted hospitality) concept: From a full suite of toiletries to yukata sets guests could wear to meals or strolls to local snacks left on the coffeetable, all the touches put you in good hands.

Mind, body, and soul

The penthouse-floor Yuaguari Lounge, with adjoining gender-separated public baths, offers one of the most breathtaking onsen experiences in the region. Compact yet sufficient due to the low guest count, the baths each features an indoor pool along floor-to-ceiling windows with an unobstructed view of the sea, as well as an open-air pool nestled within a landscaped garden. Thanks to Ito’s abundance of mineral-rich, slightly alkaline, and odourless hotspring water, a soak here is nothing less than a balm for skin and soul. 

After a long bath, it’s a real pleasure to unwind on the rooftop San Buena Deck, whose design is inspired by Miura Anjin’s pioneering second ship, the 120-tonne San Buena Ventura. Guests can help themselves to chilled guri-cha, a green tea native to Shizuoka, as well as complimentary free-flow of India Pale Ale on tap. 

The hotel also hosts twice-daily Yumori of KAI sessions that introduce the benefits of onsen bathing, while early risers can join the KAI Original Healing Exercise on the deck with easy stretches that’ll certainly work up an appetite.

Speaking of meals, a major highlight of any onsen holiday is kaiseki dining, an area where KAI Anjin does not disappoint. Room packages typically include a hearty breakfast and a nine-course dinner, both featuring British-inspired Japanese fare made with seasonal ingredients. Aside from fine sake, a European selection of wines is available. 

Seated in a semi-private booth overlooking the sun setting over the ocean horizon on the first night, I am treated to Cornish pasty reimagined as a delicate appetiser, followed by such items as roast duck, a golden eye snapper bouillabaisse hotspot, and green tea creme bulee, alongside superbly fresh sushi and cooked Japanese delights. The second night is an equally mind-blowing feast of sheer variety, including beef hot pot flavoured with summer orange, fried radish mochi, and cream cheese souffle. 

What I love about a destination onsen retreat is that the lavish breakfasts, boasting nine courses in total at KAI Anjin, are leisurely affairs designed to remind guests that time ought to move at the rhythm of relaxation. There’s simply no reason to speed through the first meal of the day when there’s no hurry to leave the property.

History comes alive

If you must leave KAI Anjin, it’s for a vivid retelling of Miura Anjin’s story — and you need not wander far. The resort essentially stands right next to the shallow mouth of the Matsukawa River that marks the historic launch site of his first ship. And that is the starting point of my Shogun-inspired Anjin Deep Dive Tour, an hour-long morning walk hosted by the charming English-speaking guide Hikaru and her colleague.

We begin at Anjin Memorial Park, home to bronze statues commemorating Adams and the San Buena Ventura, before following a lovely river promenade lined with bamboo structures and traditional buildings. Along the way, we marvel at colourful floor mosaics chronicling Miura Anjin’s journey, and paused for a photo op at a little park commemorating Ito’s sister-city status with Reiti of Italy. 

The stroll continues towards the nearby Tokaikan, a stunning preserved wooden onsen ryokan from 1928 that now serves as a cultural museum. Its early-Showa architecture, grand hall, guest rooms, and working baths provide a living snapshot of luxury domestic travel from a bygone era. There are also sculptures by Kenji Shigeoka, and exhibits about the building’s history and famous visitors. 

And how better for the tour to end than with the fragrance of grilled eel permeating the air? Standing right opposite the entrance of Tokaikan is Matoi Unagi, one of the best such traditional restaurants in the town. As a tourist enjoying a delicious lunch surrounded by all locals in this spot, I can’t help but understand why Miura Anjin stayed for the charms of this idyllic destination.

For modern travellers seeking both luxury and legend, KAI Anjin is proof that history, like the sea, still calls to those willing to dive in.