Made in China — so what? Why fashion insider Moushumi Khara will continue shopping

In today’s hyper-transparent digital world, social media has a way of spotlighting uncomfortable truths — and the latest one in fashion? A wave of viral videos claiming that your favourite luxury handbags and shoes might not be made where you think they are.

Specific individuals in China have also filmed themselves, in a factory setting, asserting they’re at the production source for some of the world’s most coveted brands. Cue the uproar.

It’s a claim that’s fuelled controversy: Bags worth up to tens of thousands are allegedly produced in factories in China and finished elsewhere, all while maintaining their upscale European labels. While some of these videos have since been taken down, the conversation hasn’t quietened. As someone who has worked in fashion for years, I wasn’t surprised.

However, I did find it necessary to address the assumptions surrounding where luxury begins and what really defines it.

The “Made In” term

Most people don’t realise that in the European Union (EU), fashion and luxury items aren’t required to carry a country-of-origin label. And when they do, it’s not always what it seems. The EU defines origin based on what’s called the “last substantial transformation” of a product.

That means if a handbag is crafted mainly in China or elsewhere, but the final stitching or assembly happens in Italy, the bag can still legally carry a “Made in Italy” label.

That might sound misleading to many, but it’s perfectly within regulatory norms. What’s important is whether the final process adds significant value to the product. Luxury could include hand-finishing, quality control, or hardware attachment.

A well-known example is Louis Vuitton’s shoe production: shoe uppers were manufactured mainly in Romania, with soles attached in Italy. Because attaching the sole is considered a key transformation in footwear production, the shoes were legally labelled “Made in Italy”.

It’s not where; it’s how

Luxury is more than geography. It’s the feeling of soft, supple leather; the weight of quality hardware; and the finesse of hand-stitched seams. These aren’t tied to a postal code. They’re tied to a process and the brand’s commitment to excellence at every stage.

As consumers, we’ve been conditioned to associate “Made in France” or “Made in Italy” with superiority. And while there is undeniable heritage in those regions, it doesn’t mean a product made elsewhere lacks merit. In fact, some of the world’s most advanced textile and leather manufacturing is now in China.

High-end factories operate with precision and skill, often under better conditions than lesser-known workshops in parts of Eastern Europe.

Many global luxury houses rely on a complex supply chain. Specific components may be produced in one country, assembled in another, and finished in a third, but the guiding hand — design, quality control, and brand values — remains consistent.

Hermes, for example, has publicly stated that it does not manufacture in China and lists no suppliers in China on its website. However, it is worth noting that for many luxury brands, small components, such as hardware or linings, may still be produced in countries outside of Europe, including China, before being assembled into the final product.

Similarly, India remains a critical hub for artisanal embroidery, beadwork, and hand embellishment for many global luxury houses. While the final assembly may happen in Paris or Milan, much of the intricate, skilled work is carried out by master artisans in India, whose craftsmanship is unmatched and often forms the soul of the piece.

Counterfeits and factory claims

Recently, some TikTok accounts have promoted so-called OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) versions of luxury goods, offering to sell similar items without logos at a fraction of the price. These posters claim that the products are made in the same factories as those used by major luxury brands.

However, as industry experts have pointed out, no authorised supplier can legally sell items directly to consumers. These are unauthorised sales at best, and outright counterfeits at worst.

Worryingly, studies show that counterfeit luxury items don’t just fall short on quality — they can be harmful. In fact, according to authentication experts, nearly 60 per cent of the counterfeit goods tested contain toxic substances such as lead and arsenic. So while that $1,400 “Birkin” knockoff might seem like a steal, it comes with serious risks to your health and ethics.

Besides, many online viral videos claiming to expose “real” factories behind luxury production are deeply misleading. Strict non-disclosure agreements would bind any facility with an actual contract to manufacture for a luxury house.

No credible supplier would risk jeopardising a multimillion-dollar relationship by publicising who they produce for. So what you see online isn’t insider access — it’s marketing for counterfeits, dressed up as authentic.

So, why do I still buy?

Because I’m buying into the artistry. Into the legacy. Into a product that reflects years of training, attention to detail, and brand integrity. Whether it’s crafted in Florence, Guangdong, or anywhere in between, I care about how it feels, performs, and represents.

Luxury, to me, is about trust. It’s about knowing that a brand stands behind every item it produces, regardless of the country it came from. What I will never buy into, however, is the notion that something is luxury just because it looks like it. Without a brand’s stamp, quality control, and craftsmanship oversight, it’s not real.

A product is still counterfeit even if it comes from a factory that also produces for a luxury house, unless it’s officially stamped and sold by that brand. That distinction matters.

Yes, luxury has become expensive. And no, brands aren’t always as transparent as today’s consumer would like them to be. But rather than writing it off, I believe there’s a space for conversation — a way for both brands and buyers to meet in the middle. We want to believe in what we buy. And the more clarity we’re offered, the more loyalty we’re willing to give.

So yes, I’ll continue to buy luxury. I’ll appreciate it for the design, the artisanship, the quality, and the experience it brings — not because of where it’s made but because of how it’s made and who stands behind it.

About Moushumi Khara

Moushumi Khara is the personal and interior stylist behind The Lifestyle Editor (@thelifestyleditor_style on Instagram). Known for her impeccable taste and innovative combinations, she specialises in styling real women — particularly those who don’t have the luxury of time, unlimited fashion resources, or access to extensive fashion archives. She deeply understands struggles with body image, lifestyle changes, and the challenge of finding practical, stylish solutions while managing busy careers and schedules. She offers tailored sessions, including body shape analysis, colour analysis, wardrobe edits, and more.