The role of women in the sustainability of the wine industry

LightFieldStudios / Getty Images

1/5

Why did you choose to dedicate the magazine's first issue of 2023 to the rise of women in wine?

I have had this subject in mind for a while because I knew that these days it's a majority of women graduating from oenology schools in Bordeaux or agronomy schools in Montpellier. And when you take into account the demographics, this situation indicates that women will soon be in the majority among wine industry managers. Meanwhile we are seeing more men who are content with an advanced vocational diploma in order to take over the family estate.

When did this trend of women studying wine to become winemakers start?

In the 1970s, there were a few women who were pioneers like Dany Rolland, the wife of Michel Rolland [a Bordeaux oenologist respected throughout the world - Ed] who directed the laboratory and was top of her class. In Burgundy, there's Nadine Gublin. But these are the exceptions. The phenomenon of women practicing winemaking in significant numbers is very recent.

AFP

3/5

It's even more meaningful as your first issue of the year reveals all the award winners for La Revue du Vin de France prizes. And coincidentally or not, three women are honored this year (Carole Bouquet as personality of the year, Ludivine Griveau with the special prize and Laura David as discovery of the year). I can't remember so many female wine figures being honored by your publication. Is this a sign that we're entering a new era?

It's true that in the past we've received some raps on the knuckles. And we acknowledge that few women have received an award. In fact, when we look at the individuals who head up France's top wine houses, there are very few women winemakers. But, in the future, this will change. And these women leaders are arriving at breakneck speed. In Saint-Emilion, in half of the estates with classified crus, women hold positions as estate directors, technical directors or cellar managers. Bordeaux is very representative of this growing role played by women the wine industry, because of the university environment with the training courses in the wine professions. Traditionally, women have long been involved in the running of Bordeaux wineries. As the farms were very large, they took part in the work in the vineyard and the cellar.

Can this greater role played by women in viticulture promote an increase in organic wines, as women are believed to be more receptive to the principles of organic agriculture?

I'm not sure. It's a cliché to think that women are more receptive to organic viticulture. Similarly describing a wine as a so-called feminine blend means nothing!

sergeyryzhov / Getty Images

5/5

How does this situation in France, where women are playing a greater role compare to other countries?

It's not at all unique to France. In vineyards in Australia, the United States and Italy, one can see women are increasingly taking up roles as heads of estates, if not in management positions. In Bordeaux, where the largest university of oenology in the world is located, 40% of the students come from abroad, including from China, Argentina, California, etc. In 10 to 15 years, the majority of wine estates look set to be headed by women. The more physical positions will remain the domain of men. In the agricultural world, I think that the wine industry may be the most advanced in terms women's presence in various professions.

Is there even more pressure here than during the MOF Sommelier competition?

In fact, she approached thatchallenge differently, telling herself she had nothing to lose. She has no background in hospitality. That was her game approach. For her, the competition was not an end in itself. For the World's Best Sommelier competition, things are different.

This interview has been translated from French.