A jungle hike in Uganda to see endangered mountain gorillas

The forest is utterly still, with only my own raspy breaths and the crunch of dry leaves underfoot disturbing the silence. I am deep inside the heart of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in southern Uganda, home to more than 50 per cent of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas (estimated to be less than 1,100). 

After a challenging — and honestly, exhausting — hike of over two hours, our motley group of wildlife enthusiasts has finally come face to face with the great apes. 

First contact

The first moment of contact is as exhilarating as I had expected: Half a dozen gorillas feeding on bushes and scrubs, and in the midst of them all, a tiny young one, curious and mischievous, scampering between the adults. 

As I watch spellbound, the kid suddenly freezes mid-movement. I soon see why: A massive silverback has just emerged into view and has managed to command the attention of his troupe wordlessly. He is the undisputed leader, the alpha male of this family known as the Kalembezi, comprising 17 members.

I follow them silently through the foliage, observing them forage and feed, play and fight, caress and control in a smooth, well-rehearsed rhythm.

Their family dynamics and social interactions are so human-like that I am initially taken aback. But why? We share 98 per cent of our DNA with these great apes, and from what I can see, these gentle giants are just as capable of loving and nurturing as humans are. 

My mind goes back to what our ranger-guide, Gloria Asasira, told me during a pitstop during the long hike: “It can be tiring and frustrating, but it is never disappointing.” She should know that after 13 years as a ranger-guide, she is ready to do anything to protect these primates.

Jungle expedition

Earlier in the day, we had assembled at the national park headquarters just after sunrise, excited and apprehensive about the hike ahead. 

As its name suggests, the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest — described in its UNESCO World Heritage listing as a biodiversity hotspot and “an isolated forest of outstanding biological richness” — is so dense and wild that it’s unpassable in some places.

After a detailed safety briefing, each group of eight visitors is assigned a single gorilla family to track, with two experienced rangers from the Uganda Wildlife Authority leading us. 

Asasira walks ahead confidently, looking for signs of ape activity along the way and communicating with trackers who have set out earlier to locate them. Just before we approach the group, we all wear our masks as per the official guidelines — since primates have been known to catch human viral infections easily — and hand over our walking sticks and backpacks to the porters from the surrounding villages whom we have hired to assist us on this challenging jungle trek. 

The gorilla families within Bwindi have been habituated to human presence by researchers who have spent a long time with them. Still, even with that, visitors are allowed only an hour in their company to avoid causing them stress.

Paying it forward

Observing the gorillas at such close quarters has been a dream come true for me. My host on this trip is Volcanoes Safaris, pioneers of responsible great ape tourism in the region and champions of conservation and community upliftment. 

I am staying at their Bwindi Lodge, where my banda (Swahili for cottage), built based on vernacular design aesthetics using locally available mud, wood and bamboo, opens to an expansive view of the national park, dark and mysterious even in bright sunlight. 

The gorilla tracking experience comes at a staggering cost of US$800 ($1,065) per person. Still, I consider this money well spent since it goes back into the conservation program for these endangered animals. 

According to UNESCO, “community benefits arising from the mountain gorilla and other ecotourism may be the only hope for the future conservation of this unique site”. I see this in action with rangers like Asasira, who not only engage and educate tourists during the daily morning tracking experience but also keep their ears and eyes open for intelligence on poaching and the health of these primates. 

Although Uganda has 10 national parks and several more regional reserves, Bwindi is the biggest draw, and I know now that it is for good reason. 

During the hike, Asasira spoke passionately about how seeing these gorillas can be a life-changing experience. However, I am still unprepared for how moved I am by this encounter. 

“Chimps are supposed to be wise, but gorillas are kind,” she tells me. “They take care of each other, are not aggressive, and just mind their own business,” she continues. And all I can think is: I wish more humans were that way.