10 things you probably never knew about vintage Cartier

This May, Hong Kong-based vintage jewellery and object dealer Palais Royal pulled off the feat of hosting its own exhibition, named From Design to Jewellery: Cartier Art Deco, 1910-1930, in the Pearl of the Orient. To curate such a thematic presentation of a single maison — and one as esteemed as Cartier — must mean two things: The business must have a large enough collection of such precious creations, and it must know what it’s talking about.

Indeed, Palais Royal fulfils both criteria. A widely respected name in the business, with only three other peers equalling its expertise in the world, the company is co-founded by third-generation antique jewellery expert Gilles Zalulyan, and second-generation diamond dealer Tom Korpershoek.

Open to the public, the 24-day exhibition featured over 60 meticulously selected Cartier vintage jewellery and objects from the early 1900s, focusing on the 1910s and 1930s Art Deco era. Among the highlights were pieces that drew inspiration from Oriental, Indian, and Persian influences, as well as the original drawings by Charles Jacqueau, head designer at Cartier during its nascent years. All displayed items were for sale.

So deep is Palais Royal’s expertise in Cartier, that it has published two high-quality publications on the maison’s treasures: the two-volume Cartier Exceptional Objects retailing at US$1,650 ($2,234); and Cartier Dessins Art Deco 1910-1930 at US$150.

Zalulyan’s passion for Cartier still burns bright today, even after a good 53 years in the antique and vintage jewellery trade. The Frenchman shares with us his knowledge of the fabled house, what makes his heart sing, and how to navigate the collecting scene.

1. Vintage Cartier is among the most collectible in today’s world

Zalulyan's love for Cartier stems from its unique blend of creativity, quality, and the evolution of its style. "Cartier's pieces are instantly recognisable, much like identifying a Picasso, and are true works of art," says the expert, who is particularly enamoured with the Art Deco period.

This period's innovative designs and top-notch craftsmanship have made Cartier currently the top brand in the vintage market, as collectors appreciate its history and unparalleled craftsmanship.

2. Tutti Frutti is Cartier’s most coveted design motif

“Tutti Frutti pieces are the most rare, desirable, and expensive of Cartier’s today,” notes Zalulyan, of the colourful, evocative Moghul-inspired aesthetic. Among the standout pieces from the Palais Royal exhibition was a Tutti Frutti brooch, which has an interesting provenance: “It was sold in an auction in Switzerland in 1996 to an Italian collector, who later lent it to a Cartier exhibition at the Petit Palais art museum in Paris”. The next most popular motif is, of course, the Panthere.

3. Cartier started as a retail store

Founded in 1847, Cartier was initially a retailer of fine jewellery and objects. Its founder Louis-Francois Cartier (1819-1904) was a humble shop apprentice from a working class background who eventually launched his own business. According to Zalulyan, he had bought items from workshops and sold them from his salon on Boulevard des Italiens in Paris.

It wasn't until around 1905 that the brand began developing its unique style. Cartier's early designs were inspired by Russian jeweller Peter Carl Faberge, the Belle Epoque art movement, and the scintillating beauty and rarity of platinum, which is still considered a more noble metal than gold.

4. Louis-Francois Cartier was a big fan of Faberge

According to Zalulyan, the Cartier founder was "under the spell of Faberge", a fact often highlighted in the brand's catalogues in the 19th century. He had ordered made-in-Russia Faberge pieces, especially exquisitely enamelled ones, to be sold in his store.

This lesser-known fact highlights the interconnectedness of the great jewellery houses in the past, and the mutual respect among them. A signed masterpiece made for Cartier by Faberge, which was "the biggest jeweller in the world at that time", is an extraordinary and valuable vintage treasure.

5. The Cartier style was born during Art Deco

Cartier’s signature style, which emerged prominently during the Art Deco period, is one of the reasons the brand is so highly regarded today. This era marked the fascinating birth and tremendous evolution of Cartier's designs from the early 20th century to the 1930s, where geometric shapes, bold colours, and intricate patterns became its defining hallmarks. "The Art Deco era is the most inspired period of Cartier," remarks Zalulyan.

6. The brand was heavily influenced by world cultures

The maison’s creations in the early 20th century often reference various civilisations, including Oriental, Islamic, Egyptian, and Coptic art. A remarkable example is a diamond, onyx, and platinum pendant that was exhibited in the recent Palais Royale show.

Made around 1910 to 1915, it was inspired by Islamic art. Zalulyan explains, “This piece is special due to its flexibility and transformative design, allowing it to be worn as both a pendant and a brooch. It is fully articulated, and soft as silk. We discovered that Cartier still has the original drawing.”

7. Charles Jacqueau was “the Picasso of jewellery design”

A name not often highlighted in modern mainstream publicity is visionary jewellery designer Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968), who played a pivotal role in shaping Cartier’s aesthetics during the early years. Instrumental in bringing Louis-Francois Cartier’s concepts to life, whether they be for jewels, hair accessories or decorative boxes, he is renowned for innovative use of materials and elaborate detailing.

In fact, Palais Royal had bought a collection of his 1920s drawings around 10 years ago, and it was through the research of a historian that the gallery was able to connect these sketches to several pieces in its existing inventory. Both sets were displayed in the May exhibition, “for the purpose of heritage”.

8. Vintage Cartier works are not just special, but more affordable than their contemporaries

While Cartier's modern creations are of exceptionally high quality and beauty, Zalulyan opines that its vintage creations are not just irreplaceable, but truly one-of-a-kind as they are the original physical testaments to the development of its house style. And the vintage market for top-shelf items, he says, offers more bang for your buck.

While the price tag of a new jewel increases annually due to inflation adjustments, vintage pieces, like the intricate Art Deco bird brooches showcased in Palais Royal’s exhibition, remain more competitively priced, especially considering their historical and artistic value.

With the exception of auctions, where hammer prices could be unexpectedly higher, such pieces typically see a slow and steady increase over the years at private dealers. “An Art Deco-era diamond Cartier bracelet is probably cheaper than a modern one of similar quality costing around US$80,000. The present-day business model and margins are different from that of the past.” 

9. Be prudent with pieces originating from New York

After the 1925 death of second-generation owner Alfred Cartier, the business was officially split between his three sons, Louis Cartier for Paris and continental Europe, Pierre Cartier for the Americas, and Jacques Cartier for London. “The quality of pieces made in London and Paris were great. Cartier in 1920s New York City was also very good.

"However, for the New York store in the following years, it was so-so. Some pieces made in Paris and sold in the US were fine, but there were those manufactured in New York City that are not okay to me."

10. There are a lot of fakes in the market

Such vintage counterfeits pose a very serious problem, emphasises Zalulyan. "A lot of pieces are made in New York City recently, sometimes in China, and a substantial number can also be found in Japan for the secondary market,” he reveals, adding that the level of expertise in identifying authentic pieces cannot be overstated.

He stresses the need for diligent research, as well as a deep understanding of quality and marks to recognise genuine items. If one is not experienced or savvy enough, it would be best to seek the services of established and trusted dealers. They could identify the maker of unsigned creations, as is often the case with historic pieces, so that you will not miss out on the purchase of a lifetime.