Love watch mechanics? These skeleton timepieces have your name on it

Openworked watches are an exploration of the art of reduction to its finest form.

skeleton watches
Photo: Phyllicia Wang
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In this Bulgari Octo Finissimo watch, the angularity of the octagonal bezel and faceted case are perfectly complemented by the strong lines of the skeletonised movement and dial. Powered by the hand-wound manufacture calibre BVL 128SK, the timepiece comes in a 40mm DLC-coated steel case topped with a pink gold bezel.

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A NUMBERS GAME

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Franck Muller whittles down its outsized Vanguard case — and the result has a more outsized presence than ever. Housed in a 41mm diamond-set, white-gold case just 9.1mm thick, the Vanguard Slim Skeleton shown here has a new self-winding skeleton movement whose graceful curves contrast beautifully with openworked, gem-set large numerals.

 

LIGHT SHOW

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Metallised so it has a smoked appearance, a 44mm sapphire-crystal case sets a striking, transparent stage for the openworked insides of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light & Shade. The self-winding manufacture movement within is skeletonised so that it is stripped down to a refined minimum, and reveals elements such as the mainspring and balance spring.

THERE AND SQUARE

Phyllicia Wang
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This year, Hublot grows its Square Bang family with this sapphire crystal-clad edition. The 41mm Square Bang Unico Sapphire has an airy feel created by its case and openworked dial, which in turn offers a glimpse of the key features of the brand’s in-house HUB1280 movement: These include the exposed date ring, as well as the column wheel of the flyback chronograph.

STELLAR EXAMPLE

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Skeletonised in an aggressively architectural style, the manual-winding movement of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon sees its signature star taking centrestage alongside a large tourbillon. Presented in a 42mm diamond-set white gold case, all of these components are finished by hand to Geneva Seal standards.

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GREEN LIGHT

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How do you showcase an ultra-slim, 2.4mm-thin movement in its finest form? In the case of the Piaget Polo Skeleton, the answer is to remove extraneous metal on the self-winding calibre 1200S1 — then highlight the remaining structure in vibrant green. The mechanism takes pride of place in a 42mm steel case.

STAR OF THE SHOW

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Inspired by Zenith’s double-Z logo of the ‘60s, a four-pointed star distinguishes the openworked dial of the Defy Skyline Skeleton. This offers a glimpse of the 41mm steel watch’s engine, a variant of the brand’s El Primero 3600 self-winding chronograph movement. Offering another clue to the high-frequency 3620 SK movement is the watch’s 1/10 of a second indicator at 6 o’clock, which completes one revolution in 10 seconds.

Photography: Phyllicia Wang
Art Direction: Ashruddin Sani

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