In Chopard’s hands, the Insofu Emerald fulfils its dazzling destiny

In the world of luxury, Chopard stands as one of the most influential brands that has made sustainability a huge part of its DNA. The Swiss maison, which has used 100 per cent ethical gold in all its jewellery and watch offerings since 2018, among other initiatives, has continued to fuse goodness with preciousness — in its new Insofu collection.

This opus, created from a single rough gemstone, is the maison’s second following the Garden of Kalahari Collection, which was born from a 342-carat rough diamond in 2017. 

At the heart of this new collection lies the Insofu Emerald, a 6,225-carat rough gemstone unearthed in Zambia within Gemfields’ Kagem mine in 2010. Awestruck by its colossal size and trunk-like shape, the locals named it Insofu, which means “elephant” in the local Bemba language. 

This extraordinary gem — with its vivid colour, shifting hues, and unique character — captivated none other than Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, who acquired it at a Singapore auction in 2018. “In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honour the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth,” she says.

Unlike diamonds, whose potential can be scientifically assessed, emeralds are unpredictable. Their internal inclusions, known as “jardin,” make them notoriously fragile. Their ultimate promise is only revealed during the fraught cutting process, which is a high-stakes endeavour that requires both technical expertise and innate intuition.

Chopard entrusted the task to master gem-cutters from India, who meticulously studied the Insofu Emerald for nearly a year, proposing cuts and facets that would preserve its soul while unlocking its inherent beauty. One wrong move could shatter the stone or diminish its brilliance. The yield was 850 carats of breathtaking emeralds, some of the finest in the world.

Unlocking a promise

The Insofu Collection is a culmination of this long journey, a fusion of nature’s forces and human artistry. The first chapter debuted during Oscars week last year, with a parure of necklace, earrings, and ring that paired Insofu emeralds with rubellites and turquoise. 

This year, Chopard unveils a new chapter: 15 exquisite pieces that reflect the emerald’s multi-faceted character. From Art Deco-inspired chokers and flowing long necklaces, to showstopping rings and earrings, the collection draws inspiration from the organic lines of nature, the boldness of the Roaring Twenties, and the elegance of The Great Gatsby.

One showpiece is an elephant-shaped pendant, a tribute to the gem’s name. Featuring emeralds of various shapes and sizes, framed by shimmering diamonds that form the tusks, the pendant comes with a long chain, and is ingeniously designed to transform into a brooch. The pachyderm’s trunk, raised upward, symbolises prosperity and good fortune — a fitting emblem for a collection that embodies joie de vivre.

One standout is a set of four necklaces designed to be worn together or separately, offering endless styling possibilities. At its center is a diamond choker with a vibrant 2.50-carat square-cut emerald, complemented by a second necklace featuring a 15.53-carat octagonal emerald. A long necklace of emeralds, pearls, and diamonds adds fluidity, while a delicate sautoir of pink pearls provides an ethereal contrast.

Caroline Scheufele’s holistic vision extends beyond jewellery. She has paired the collection with five couture gowns from her Caroline’s Couture line, creating a dialogue between fashion and jewellery. 

“With the Insofu Collection, it was about respecting this inherent beauty. I chose the finest quality stones from the heart of the emerald, pairing them with diamonds, pink sapphires, and pearls,” she explains.

Doing the right thing

Traceability lies at the core of Chopard’s ethos. The house pioneered the use of Gubelin Gem Lab’s Provenance Proof Emerald Paternity Test, which injects DNA-based nanoparticles into the gem’s natural fissures, ensuring its origin can be traced for life.

This marking is permanent, allowing the rough stone to be identified for life. Even decades from now, a simple examination will trace the jewels to their original rough gem, safeguarding an intact link to their exact origin. This innovation, coupled with Chopard’s ethical gold, underscores its commitment to sustainable luxury. “Traceability is more than a technical advancement; it is an ethical achievement,” Scheufele asserts.

The Insofu Collection also reflects Chopard’s dedication to giving back. In collaboration with Gemfields, Chopard supports community development and wildlife conservation in Zambia. 

Additionally, a portion of the collection’s profits will benefit Elephant Family, which works exclusively in partnership with conservation experts on the ground to tackle the challenges facing Asia’s wildlife and the indigenous communities that live alongside them.

As human populations expand and natural habitats shrink, people and animals are fighting a battle for food and space. The organisation’s efforts focus on mitigating human-elephant conflict, safeguarding migratory corridors, and fostering community engagement to promote a culture of coexistence. 

“The final reveal of the Insofu Collection is a moment I have long awaited, one that could only be realised by aligning it with a meaningful cause to protect wildlife and nature — passions that have been close to my heart for many years,” says Scheufele.

From its raw beginnings to its transformation into an incredible array of jewels, the Insofu Emerald’s journey highlights Chopard’s pioneering spirit and tells a fascinating story — of nature’s beauty, human ingenuity, and the courage to go where others fear to tread. Indeed, these heirlooms are meant to be loved and passed down through the ages, creating a legacy as enduring as the Insofu gem itself.