The best horology insights from Dominic Liew, who began watch-collecting at 15

Dominic Liew’s passion for horology is such that he has never sold a single watch nor regretted a purchase through his 18-year collecting journey.

Ever since buying his first timepiece, a steel, no-date Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060M, as a teenager, he has discovered the beauty of independent watchmaking, visited multiple manufactures in Switzerland, and amassed close to 50 luxury acquisitions. 

Here, he offers interesting tidbits on everything a budding enthusiast needs to know — from how he expanded his horizons and the horologists he admires to his personal preferences and views on the industry and community.

1. The “why” of a watch

“Many brands produce the same complications, similarly extremely well-finished movements, and design unique cases. However, what finally makes me pick one brand or watch over the other is the story behind it. 

Why was it created? Was it to solve an existing problem or limitation? Was it to improve on what was already in the market? Or was it because the designer or watchmaker was inspired by certain things in his past, and the only way he knew how to express it was to create that particular timepiece?”

2. Personal relationships matter

“Besides buying watches that appeal to me due to their craftsmanship, the stories of their creation or even their aesthetics, a very significant part of why I buy what I buy is due to the personal relationships I’ve made.

It’s the connection with the watchmakers, the brand, and sales representatives, some of whom have seen and known me since I was a teenager with hardly any knowledge. They took me seriously and taught me so much about the world of watches.”

3. Buy what makes you happy

“We are currently living in a time when a timepiece’s overall value proposition and attractiveness are increasingly tied to its secondary market value, its current hype, and the perceived difficulty in acquiring it from a retailer or boutique.

Collectors should first be clear about their own reasons for buying a watch, stick to that, and not stray from it. Most importantly, they should focus on buying what they personally love, not what their peers love and definitely not what the market loves. 

For instance, ultra-lightweight and ultra-thin watches don’t interest me, although I admire the R&D behind them, and it’s indeed amazing how light or slim watches have become now. I wouldn’t add them to my collection simply due to personal preferences.

Trends will always come and go, and the ugly ducklings of today may become the swans of tomorrow. Always remember, your wrist, your rules!”

4. Price doesn’t determine worth

“While it may not be my most expensive watch purchase, one of the most important is my MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar with a white gold case and beautiful purple dial. The watch is horologically significant, having revolutionised the perpetual calendar, which is one of, if not my favourite, watch complication. It was also bought to commemorate my graduation from medical school.

I even buy G-Shocks from time to time. While I may not wear them often, these pieces remind me of my childhood, when it meant the world to wear and own one as a kid.”

5. Embrace your inner nerd

“I’m an obsessive collector and strive to discover everything possible about the watches I collect and even those I don’t. I trawl through article after article on the web, speak to fellow respected collectors about them, and then form my own opinion.

While I genuinely enjoy reading about the technical aspects of watchmaking, I really love learning about the watchmakers who have poured their hearts, souls, and entire lives into perfecting their craft. But it’s a healthy addiction! My hobby helps take my mind off the stressors of daily life, and I wouldn’t want it any other way.”

6. The joy of companionship

“Despite being a millennial and digital native, I definitely use my watches to tell the time more than my devices. While strictly speaking, the role my watches play in my daily life does not go beyond time-telling, the constant audible ticking of the escapement makes it seem like I have a companion, albeit inanimate. 

However, I don’t judge people who don’t wear watches, as they are fundamentally unnecessary. You do you!”

7. Every piece is precious

“I don’t think I’ve ever regretted any of my watches, each meaning something to me differently, helping me recall the numerous milestones and life experiences. And I wouldn’t part with any watch. All of them represent a memory or occasion; losing any of them would feel like I’m losing a part of myself.”

8. The more, the merrier

“Huge kudos to Michael Tay and The Hour Glass team for creating IAMWATCH. From the ability to have casual conversations with the many artisans, watchmakers, and brand representatives to the numerous educational talks and casual breakfast gatherings, no one was made to feel out of place, from the most seasoned collector to the new hobbyist. 

Watches across all shapes, sizes, and price points shone on collectors’ wrists, and we humans were but mere vessels that helped display these mechanical works of art. This event helped prove that watch-collecting is no longer that stuffy, exclusive hobby of yesteryears. As long as you are passionate about watches, the community would gladly welcome you with open arms.

People used to think that collecting watches was inaccessible. However, with the advent of social media and the birth of numerous wallet-friendly offerings, that attitude is also slowly disappearing.”

9. Most memorable manufacture visit

“Hands down, my trip to the Roger Dubuis manufacture in early 2024. The team helped me organise the visit from start to end, from transport to lunch and a fully guided tour of the manufacture. It was really amazing to see that despite being part of a large group, many aspects of the brand’s watchmaking are still done traditionally. I even got to try assembling a movement at a workshop. 

But what made it the most memorable was the people, some of the warmest I’ve met. Special mention to their new CEO, David Chaumet, for unexpectedly taking the time to pop by and have a quick chat.”

10. Trip advice

“Plan the itinerary early with the help of your friendly local retailers and boutiques. Allow ample time to travel between manufactures, and aim to cover a wide range of operations — from the large facilities to the small artisanal workshops. Lastly, go with an open mind.”

11. He admires F.P. Journe the most

“I’m fascinated by so many watchmakers, but Francois-Paul (F.P.) Journe probably takes the cake. To me, he is arguably one of the most influential watchmakers of the 20th century and, so far, the 21st century. He has successfully combined the inventiveness of late 18th-century horology with his vision.

He was inspired by Abraham Louis Breguet and George Daniels and managed to use that deep admiration as catalysts for his creations, all while injecting his unique creativity and style. Regardless of market trends and demands, he has stayed true to his identity until today.”

12. The man behind the machine

“F.P. Journe also doesn’t just think like a watchmaker; he has a well-rounded approach — thoughtful about design, the complications, and how his collections are structured. 

For example, the Tourbillon Souverain was a homage to Breguet and Daniels, a graduation of sorts into the league of the great watchmakers of the past. The Chronometre a Resonance, on the other hand, was his first significant attempt to invent and conquer new ground.

His Grande et Petite Sonnerie was designed to be easy to operate and difficult to damage. As a watch collector, this resonates with me because nearly every piece or collection has a raison d’être.

One of my favourite F.P. Journe pieces would be the Vagabondage 2 with baguette diamonds. It is classic in dimension, novel and whimsical in complication, and like every one of his pieces, contains so much of his design DNA. Even though the Vagabondage series is the only range not bearing his name on the dial, it still looks and feels unmistakably his.”

13. Best recent discovery

“Not exactly watch-related, but knowing that Journe knows how to run a successful watch company and a restaurant as well. I had the opportunity to dine at F.P. Journe Le Restaurant in Geneva last year and thoroughly enjoyed the food and service. The bistro has also recently earned its first Michelin star.”

14. Next treasure

“I’m eyeing several from my favourite independents and waiting for them to arrive. I’m extremely excited about a Roger Dubuis piece still in the pipeline. I sincerely hope that this would be the one to give the brand the recognition and visibility it rightfully deserves and remind people that it is founded by a passionate watchmaker considered one of the greats of his time.”

15. Change he hopes for

“Unfortunately, the watch market has softened in recent times and looks set to stay that way in the near future. However, I view this as a necessary correction, presenting a massive opportunity for brands to head back to the drawing board, invest heavily in R&D, and rethink their marketing strategies. 

Hopefully, they can create more revolutionary products than evolutionary, showing collectors what they are truly capable of.”