From bespoke handbags to accessible collections and womenswear: Singaporean luxury designer Ethan Koh opens a new chapter for his label

Scores of celebrities, including Hailey Bieber, Jennifer Lopez, British princesses Beatrice and Eugenie, and Carina Lau, are already faithful fans of EthanK. Such a feat is truly impressive, especially for a young brand born in 2011 when its founder Ethan Koh was still a student at Central Saint Martins. 

From its beginnings as a custom-maker of bespoke exotic leather handbags, the past decade has seen the brand in a flurry of expansion and evolution. EthanK diversified its offerings to include perfumes and candles, steered away from made-to-order pieces towards more accessibly priced and readily available collections, and extended its presence from its original homebase in Harrods, London, to other parts of Europe, the Middle East, and Asia.

And that’s not counting his numerous global pop-up ventures, which included a collaboration with Galeries Lafayette in Paris and an event launching a Harrods private members’ club in Shanghai. As his clientele grew, he has also started hosting intimate VIP shopping retreats he terms “collectors’ reunions” in swanky locales such as the French Riviera.

While the local style set warmly welcomed the opening of EthanK’s first-in-Asia flagship boutique at Scotts Square in Oct 2021, they have even more to celebrate now — with the recent launch of a one-of-a-kind womenswear collection.

Love of the craft

“For a brand known for its handbags and accessories, this move may be quite surprising. In Southeast Asia, a luxury handbag is regarded as a status symbol, but to some, a beautiful dress or jacket is more important,” says Koh, who has made these two garments the stars of his new capsule fashion collection named The Shield. 

And while Koh explains that entering the realm of womenswear is more of an organic expansion of his creative universe, having realised that his “vision can be expressed not just in the form of handbags”, there is also a deeply personal reason for it. 

Much has been written about Koh as a fourth-generation stalwart of his family’s successful crocodile and alligator leather-tanning business Heng Long, of which LVMH bought a majority stake back in 2011, but little is known about his connection to tailoring. 

“My grandmother escaped a massive neighbourhood fire in the 60s. All granny carried and ran away with was the family sewing machine, as she knew she could make a living by making clothes for clients and neighbours,” states Koh, adding that artisanship has always been part of his family’s DNA.

Although launched as a capsule, his clothing line is intended as a regular annual affair. This debut collection features four versions of the garden party-style Duchess Dress, made to complement the “arm candy” he’s renowned for, as well as a jacket in six different silhouettes — four of which boast his new signature of eight 18k gold-plated buttons on each sleeve.

Like his handbags, most of his clothing designs are inspired by the culture and lifestyle of (and sometimes, serendipitous encounters in) the UK, his adopted home of over a decade. On a broader level, his brand identity is built around nature, adventure, and elegance.

Bearing a theme of “empowerment, protection, and divinity”, this new womenswear collection further solidifies another major element of the EthanK ethos: timelessness. “In today’s era of mass production and short-lived trends, we are a different voice. Luxury, to us, is sustainability, durability, and simplicity. It is something you will wear and cherish over time, instead of something that follows viral trends or just makes a passing fashion statement.”

Indeed, from my visit to his Scotts Square boutique to view the collection, it’s clear to see that the garments are meant to last. Comfortable, lightweight, wearable across climates yet distinctive, they are beautifully hand-stitched and boast unique fabrics specially sourced by Koh in Italy.

The limited production of the pieces, which are kept at three or five sizes for each design, is due to the manufacturing capability of a small husband-and-wife atelier in Tuscany. Keeping things exclusive also means less wastage. “In fact, this season’s fabrics are also hand-painted, hand-sprayed, and hand-woven. The artisans may not even do them anymore.”

Champion of modern luxury

Calling EthanK one of the last remaining independent luxury houses, Koh does not abide by the cyclical, predictable nature of the fashion world. “There are times when we come up with capsule drops, but since we’re not answerable to a huge conglomerate, we’re not turning out collections every month or season.”

And this quirk is what makes EthanK so interesting. At press time, I was shown new styles and vibrant colours from his latest Dreamscape series that cut across his growing handbag collections. 

Inspired by his travels to the seaside resort destinations of Costa Brava and Es Vedra in Spain, the new releases span enchanting blues and greens of the sea, and also evoke the locations’ dramatic landscapes and skies with skins like the S’Agaro Red Matte Alligator, Sunset Red Matte Alligator, and Es Vedra Brown Ostrich.

While Koh’s highly coveted core designs are now categorised under the Icons and Masterpieces pillars of his entire portfolio, he has been diligently developing an Essentials pillar, with versatile collections at more affordable price points, to cater to the modern sophisticate.

Some of his most recent designs include the Mini Breezy Bucket, the Eli Briefcase, the Infinity, the Pillow Briefcase, and mini versions of his hot classics. He has also introduced eco-friendly bags featuring pineapple and cork leathers, as well as an innovative material called beLEAF made from elephant ear leaves. Meanwhile, more styles that blend glamour with utility, like the Mini Wave Case and Soft Briefcase, are on the way.

“We have a very high level of repeat clientele, with some longtime collectors owning 30 to 40 bags. Of course when we started we catered for the society ladies, but now we also have highly informed younger customers new to the brand,” he adds, referring to the Gen Zs and millennials who are quickly embracing EthanK, thanks to the high-profile patronage of multiple young Hollywood celebrities the likes of Zendaya, Vanessa Hudgens, and Nathalie Emmanuel.

Regardless of the profile of his clients, Koh stays true to his brand values — of fusing functionality with modern luxury. “We did not start 100 years ago designing bags, so we are very proud to say that our products are made for the modern woman with cross-generational appeal.”

Despite the precious skins his handbags come in, optimising their use is a key product focus: “I’m very proud of my Asian roots, which emphasises function. You can see that in our Mini Briefcase with plenty of compartments, which is our number one bestseller worldwide, as well as the Duchess Bag, which is still the only one in the world with a four-faceted design and a trapdoor opening for easy access.”

Ultimately, nothing resonates better with today’s savvy shopper than having it all — form and function in one exquisite package. “I think that a handbag is like a second home to women. And nobody knows that better than the collectors themselves.”