The story of German watchmaking is defined by resilience, reinvention, and the pursuit of perfection

German watchmaking owes its success to the visionary work of 19th-century horologist Ferdinand Adolph Lange. After understudying with Dresden’s court watchmaker, he further refined his skills in France, England, and Switzerland before setting out to transform the impoverished mining town of Glashutte in Saxony into a centre of horological excellence. 

In 1845, with financial support from the Saxon government, he established Glashutte’s first workshops and introduced ground-breaking innovations, such as precision tools that standardised production. 

Lange’s efforts created an entire industry. He trained local residents and implemented a metric system for measuring components, which improved precision and efficiency. As a result, his pioneering techniques laid the foundation for Glashutte’s reputation as a horological powerhouse. 

However, the path wasn’t always smooth. Following World War II, Glashutte’s watchmaking industry faced significant setbacks during the German Democratic Republic (GDR) era from 1949 to 1990. Under the socialist regime of East Germany, the region’s independent watchmakers were forcibly merged into the state-owned VEB Glashutter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). 

Quality took a backseat as production shifted to quartz timepieces and mass manufacturing. Coupled with economic constraints, the consolidation led to a decline in the craftsmanship and innovation that had defined Glashutte’s pre-war success, nearly erasing the town’s artisanal heritage.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent reunification of Germany in 1990, the watchmaking landscape in Glashutte changed dramatically. Today, the Saxon town is home to several high-end watch manufactures that uphold Lange’s legacy of precision and innovation, although it isn’t the only horological hub in the country. 

Pforzheim, often referred to as Goldstadt (German for Gold City), is renowned for its jewellery-making heritage, which began in the 18th century. This expertise naturally lent itself to watchmaking, with brands like Junghans, Laco, and Stowa merging precision timekeeping with artistic design.

Here, we highlight five distinguished German watchmakers who continue to contribute to the country’s unique and under-appreciated horological prestige.

A. Lange & Söhne

The journey of A. Lange & Sohne is a remarkable comeback story. It was founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who transformed the then-struggling town of Glashutte into a powerhouse of precision timekeeping. Lange’s introduction of the groundbreaking three-quarter plate added stability to movements, and an exact metric measurement system set new standards that elevated German horology to rival the Swiss. 

But fate had other plans. After WWII, A. Lange & Sohne was forcibly absorbed into the state-owned VEB Glashutter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) under East Germany’s socialist regime, seemingly ending the brand’s storied run. Its name was lost to history for four decades — until the fall of the Berlin Wall.

In 1990, Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, alongside IWC’s Gunther Blümlein, revived A. Lange & Sohne, marking one of the horology world’s most triumphant resurrections. 

The first post-revival collection in 1994 included the Lange 1, with its distinctive off-centre dial and outsized date display showcasing the brand’s return to originality. But the real showstopper was the Tourbillon Pour le Merite. This was the first-ever wristwatch to feature a fusee-and-chain transmission system, a mechanism previously reserved for marine chronometers that ensured constant force and unparalleled precision.

What sets A. Lange & Sohne apart is its quiet rebellious streak and knack for blending traditional craftsmanship with a modern flair that is unmistakably German. The brand’s signature three-quarter plate, hand-engraved balance cocks, and outsized date displays are the very soul of its watchmaking ethos.

This DNA is evident in the Datograph, a chronograph that shook the industry in 1999 with its column-wheel mechanism, flyback function, and a stunning symmetrical layout that had even the most seasoned watchmakers swooning.

Innovations like the Zeitwerk and Lange 31 continue to push the boundaries of watchmaking. The Zeitwerk, with its digital jumping hour and minute display, reimagines how time can be read mechanically, while the now-discontinued Lange 31’s unprecedented 31-day power reserve demonstrated mastery in energy management.

Glashutte Original

When the socialist government merged independent watchmakers under the single entity of VEB Glashutter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) in the GDR era, this move marked the beginning of Glashutte Original, which operated under GUB. Despite the shift towards mass-produced quartz timepieces during this trying period, the brand maintained its technical expertise.

Following German reunification in 1989, thousands of companies, including GUB, were privatised. In 1994, Bavarian businessman Heinz Pfeifer purchased GUB and renamed it Glashutte Original. Under his leadership, the brand reconnected with its Saxon roots, refocusing on traditional mechanical watchmaking and reviving hallmark Glashutte elements, such as the three-quarter plate and hand-engraved balance cocks. 

In 2000, Glashutte Original was acquired by the Swatch Group. This provided the brand with financial resources and support, enabling it to expand its global presence and invest in R&D. 

Still, the manufacture’s DNA remains rooted in its Saxon heritage, emphasising technical mastery and traditional craftsmanship. 

About 95 per cent of its components are produced in-house, ensuring complete control over quality. Its movements are crafted with refined details like Glashutte stripes, blued screws, and the swan-neck fine adjustment mechanism. At the same time, its dedicated dial-making factory in Pforzheim produces intricate, artistic dials that add depth and allure to its classic timepieces with clean lines.

The brand’s signature Panorama Date display uses two concentric discs for a seamless date display, while the Senator Chronometer and Pano collections further showcase the brand’s technical prowess and aesthetic finesse. A significant milestone was the 2000 release of the PanoRetroGraph, the world’s first mechanical chronograph with a countdown function, sectoral 30-minute counter, and triple repeater gong. 

Another highlight of the brand’s technical achievements is the flying tourbillon, one of high horology’s most sophisticated inventions. Created in 1921 by Glashutte master watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the engineering marvel hovers weightlessly in the movement to enhance stability and precision. 

Helwig, who taught at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashutte, trained more than 800 apprentices throughout his 41-year tenure there. To honour his legacy and keep the German town’s tradition alive, Glashutte Original founded the Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking in 2002. 

Moritz Grossman

Moritz Grossmann was founded in 1854 by Carl Moritz Grossmann, another pioneering figure in Glashutte and friend of Ferdinand Adolph Lange. His commitment to meticulous craftsmanship, technical innovation, and education — evidenced by his role in founding the German School of Watchmaking in 1878 — helped establish the region’s legacy of engineering excellence, precision, and mastery.

Grossmann’s original creations of pocket watches, chronometers, and precision pendulum clocks were distinguished by their exceptional finishing and reliability, laying the foundation for Glashutte’s prestigious reputation in fine watchmaking.

After Grossmann’s sudden death in 1885, his workshop in Glashutte was liquidated, and the brand disappeared. More than a century later, in 2008, Christine Hutter revived the Moritz Grossmann name. A watchmaker herself, Hutter’s vision was to honour Grossmann’s heritage while incorporating modern watchmaking advancements. 

Today, Moritz Grossmann is known for its intricate in-house movements, of which 90 per cent are produced in-house in its new manufacture in Glashütte. One of its most noteworthy innovations is the manual winding system, which features a unique pusher mechanism that resets the seconds hand without stopping the movement to ensure precise time-setting. 

Each watch is finished by hand and features distinctive elements of traditional Saxon watchmaking artistry.

The Benu and Tefnut collections are two of Moritz Grossmann’s standout lines, blending timeless elegance with advanced mechanics. The Benu collection is rooted in classical design, featuring refined details and traditional elements. In contrast, the Tefnut series offers a more contemporary aesthetic while maintaining the brand’s hallmark technical sophistication. 

Another noteworthy model is the Hamatic, Moritz Grossmann’s first self-winding watch, which showcases the brand’s innovative craftsmanship in a beautifully engineered timepiece. 

Sinn

In 1961, former World War II pilot and flight instructor Helmut Sinn founded the Sinn watch company Helmut Sinn Spezialuhren. Leveraging on his expertise in aviation, the Frankfurt-based brand focused on producing navigational cockpit instruments and pilot chronographs, quickly gaining a reputation for functionality, dependability, and durability. 

Helmut sold the watches through catalogues and advertisements to keep costs low and quality high. This direct-to-consumer approach allowed pilots, divers, and engineers access precision timepieces without breaking the bank.

But it wasn’t only this unique business model that set Sinn apart. In 1985, a Sinn 140 S chronograph boldly went where few watches had gone before — space. German physicist and astronaut Reinhard Furrer wore the watch (his personal piece) aboard the Challenger Shuttle flight STS-61A, proving that Sinn’s robust engineering could withstand the rigours of zero gravity.

Sinn underwent a major change in 1994 when Helmut sold the company to engineer Lothar Schmidt. The new leadership expanded Sinn’s range and reputation, as Schmidt introduced several cutting-edge innovations. 

These include Tegiment Technology, which hardens the watch’s surface to make it highly scratch-resistant, and Ar-Dehumidifying Technology, which prevents fogging and increases the movement’s lifespan by keeping moisture out. Another innovation is DIAPAL Technology, a lubrication-free escapement system that guarantees precision without needing constant servicing. 

Today, Sinn remains synonymous with German engineering excellence, producing watches renowned for their ruggedness, precision, and distinctive no-nonsense aesthetics. Iconic models include the U1 diving watch, made from German submarine steel that is virtually indestructible and impervious to corrosion. 

Meanwhile, the EZM (Einsatzzeitmesser) series for special forces and emergency services embodies the brand’s ethos of extreme functionality with its anti-magnetic properties and outstanding legibility. For aviation enthusiasts, the 356 Flieger and Sinn 103 chronographs — tributes to Helmut’s aviation background — capture the essence of pilot watches with their clean dials, high contrast and vintage-inspired designs.

Lang & Heyne

Founded in 2001 in Dresden, boutique high-end watchmaker Lang & Heyne was the brainchild of friends Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne. Their vision was to reinterpret the watchmaking principles and craftsmanship of 18th-century Saxon court watchmakers through a modern lens. 

By focusing on Dresden rather than its well-known, neighbouring watchmaking hub of Glashutte, Lang & Heyne has carved out its unique identity while showcasing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary flair.  

Unlike many German brands that follow the Glashutte tradition of three-quarter plates, Lang & Heyne favours open, visually striking movement designs that allow collectors to appreciate the intricate hand-finished components without obstruction. Another stand-out detail of the brand’s watches is using a third centralised lug at the top and bottom of the case. 

Heyne left the company in 2002, while Lang managed the manufacture. In 2013, Lang sold the company to entrepreneur and watch enthusiast Ulrich L. Rohde and his Tempus Arte Group but remained active as a watchmaker, developing nine calibres until his departure in 2019.

Under the leadership of Jens Schneider, who took over as head watchmaker and director of development after Lang left, the brand continued to flourish. 

An industry veteran with working experience at Moritz Grossmann, A. Lange & Sohne, and Glashutte Original, Schneider has been instrumental in maintaining the brand’s high standards. Lang & Heyne continued to expand its capabilities, producing nearly all its components in-house and crafting around 150 to 200 watches annually. In 2020, Alexander Gutierrez Diaz, a seasoned watch industry professional, joined as CEO to further steer the company’s growth.

Lang & Heyne is known for creating highly intricate, handmade timepieces. These timepieces bear the names of selected Saxon electors and kings of the House of Wettin, one of the oldest families of German nobility. Some of their most iconic models include the Georg, a rectangular wristwatch, and the Friedrich August I, which recalls fine pocket watches from the 1900s. 

In 2021, Lang & Heyne introduced its first-ever sports watch, the Hektor, which marked a significant departure for the brand as it was also its first stainless steel model and featured a central seconds hand​.