La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton revives watchmaker Daniel Roth’s favourite watch

If a watch can be said to exemplify mastery of understated luxury, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription would be it.

As the second model from the formerly independent Daniel Roth brand, which was revived in 2023 by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, it follows on the heels of the highly regarded Tourbillon Souscription.

This new timepiece pays homage to Daniel Roth’s original 1990 Extra Plat, a personal treasure of the legendary master watchmaker, while introducing modern craftsmanship and mechanics.

The yellow gold case measures 35.5mm by 38.6mm, with a svelte 7.70mm thickness made possible by the ultra-thin DR002 movement. Its iconic double-ellipse shape, a Roth signature, has been subtly updated: The lugs are gently rounded and arched for comfort, while a centred godron imparts balance. Each lug is also individually crafted and soldered by hand, a nod to traditional methods.

A highlight is the solid yellow gold dial, featuring a hand-guilloche Clou de Paris pattern created on antique, restored machines. This painstaking process takes 10 hours per dial, with the guilloche applied by a single artisan. The deep-blue Roman numerals and heat-blued steel hands create a harmonious contrast, while the applied chapter ring and filet saute border add depth and texture.

The manual-winding DR002 movement, developed exclusively for this watch, mirrors the case’s double-ellipse shape. Despite its unconventional form, it embodies traditional high horology construction and decoration. Features include polished anglage (rounded, polished bevels), sharp hand-finished corners, and a free-sprung 4Hz balance wheel with variable inertia weights for precision.

The single large mainspring delivers a 65-hour power reserve, while the satinated steel winding click offers a satisfying tactile experience. True to Roth’s original designs, the movement is discreetly hidden beneath a solid gold caseback.

“We understand Daniel’s devotion to traditional high-end watchmaking, both as friends and watchmakers, so we wanted to respect his approach when we constructed the DR002,” explain Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, “As a result, we made sure it has the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie, like the steel winding bar click for the barrel.”

Limited to just 20 pieces, the Extra Plat Souscription is a celebration of Daniel Roth’s enduring legacy, and much more. It demonstrates that true elegance lies not in excess, but in a kind of quiet, unwavering excellence that connoisseurs appreciate. And should this piece be out of your reach, take comfort that a non-limited Extra Plat is soon to follow.