Independent watchmaker Max Busser discusses friends, the future, and that Chanel acquisition

“Humanity needs more humanity and fewer brands,” says MB&F founder Maximilian “Max” Busser, who was recently in Singapore as a participant and masterclass presenter at IAMWATCH by The Hour Glass. “We need to buy less stuff and interact more with people.”

A hands-on entrepreneur who personally replies to his brand’s Instagram followers, Busser divulges that he’s lost several friends in recent years to heart attacks and cancer. This has made him think deeply about his purpose and personal relationships and plan for what will happen to his brand after his time.

After all, MB&F is short for “Maximilian Busser and Friends”. And friends form an essential part of his company’s core values. The two categories of products made with collaborators are Performance Art pieces, which are MB&F timekeeping “machines” revisited by external creative talents, and Co-Creations, which are not wristwatches but creations like clocks and mechanical art that are engineered and crafted by other Swiss manufactures based on MB&F ideas and designs. 

“Creating beautiful timepieces can’t be our purpose,” says the former Jaeger-LeCoultre and Harry Winston executive, who struck out on his own to design non-traditional watches. In fact, his creations were some of the most imaginative the world has ever seen, to the point where he had teetered on the threshold of bankruptcy several times earlier in his career.

Busser reveals that fans have thanked him for sharing his riveting entrepreneurial story, inspiring them to rethink their lives and making them less afraid to take risks. “MB&F exists to help people find their true north and be more creative. Our purpose is to help and connect people.”

To him, independent watchmaking is about fostering human relationships. “Big brands’ staff are anonymous, but you can connect with your watches’ creators in artisanal watchmaking.”

He’ll gladly have you call him “mad” since his workshop is called the M.A.D. House and his boutiques named M.A.D. Galleries, in addition to the MB&F Lab. But there is a method to the madness. For instance, Busser broke the Internet when he held raffles in recent years to give away his M.A.D Editions M.A.D. 1 watches.

“In an era when everyone is constantly on their phones and not interacting, owners of the M.A.D. 1 frequently tell me that the M.A.D. 1 starts conversations,” adds Busser, whose creations have also given purpose and recognition to gifted artists whose talent he admires. Here, he sheds more light on his thoughts on the importance of fellowship and the future.

MB&F’s DNA has always been clean architecture and hand-polished surfaces. What prompted you to spotlight sculptural engraving on the MB&F LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”?

True! That’s not the DNA of our brand, but six years ago, Eddy came to our Geneva workshop and asked me to stamp his unemployment form because he was out of work. I said, “What are you talking about?” Eddy used to engrave the “Legacy Machine” signature on our LM models, and he is one of the greatest engravers in the world.

I sat him down, and he decided that the LM Split Escapement would be the most fun to work on. He wanted to engrave sculptures based on Jules Verne novels, so he read 65 of his books and short stories in a month and created drawings to show me. I couldn’t believe it!

Both of you dedicated three years to producing eight unique pieces. 

He’s a nice person with a beautiful back story, and so happy with his work. We have continued to create incredible pieces with him in a second series based on eight books from our childhood. They are Robinson Crusoe, The Three Musketeers, The Last of the Mohicans, The Jungle Book, The Call of the Wild, Moby Dick, Treasure Island, and Robin Hood.

You also lent a hand to watchmaker Stephen McDonnell when he needed it and created the historic Split Escapement with the world’s longest-balance staff. 

Our collaboration with Stephen was very particular because he is an extraordinary genius. We gave him a blank canvas with instructions like component placement and case diameter, and he created something that revolutionised watchmaking.

How do you choose your partners?

It’s about meeting and talking with people. Collaborations are about creating something neither artist had the courage or means to do independently. For example, I was terrified when working with Bvlgari on the LM Flying T Allegra because they are a three-billion-dollar company!

However, I got along so well with its head designer, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, that we’ll release something else this year. It’s something that I thought I’d never be allowed to do.

Everyone’s talking about Chanel’s acquisition of 25 per cent of MB&F shares. 

We have a relationship with Chanel because they have been making our folding clasps for the past two decades. I’ve been thinking about the future of MB&F once I’m gone, and my daughters are too young to take over the company. I spoke with Chanel about this, and they said, “We’re here to help.”

We made the acquisition announcement on August 22, 2024. I showed my MB&F team a slide stating, “What’s going to change?” and the next slide said, “Nothing”. I asked Chanel if they would want to buy more shares to gain 51 per cent at some point, and they replied, “No, no, we just want to help.”

I know of a brand that makes gloves by hand in a remote part of France and a cashmere workshop in Scotland that Chanel has helped, but all that was never mentioned. Chanel just wants to help heritage, artisanship, and knowledge continue. My daughters can take over MB&F if they wish, but Chanel might offer to buy their shares if they don’t.

Might you gain new access to Chanel affiliates like watch movement and component manufacturer Kenissi, though?

We could go down that road, but we haven’t discussed it. For sure, we will gain new access to the supplier ecosystem that we’ve never thought we could. Chanel makes its ceramic for the J12 watches and other famous brands, so maybe someday, MB&F can do something in ceramic.

Your daughters are only 7 and 11. What do they think you do?

They’ve never seen the cool stuff in person, so they probably think their dad sends emails and attends Zoom meetings daily. 

And as for the big F in MB&F, what do you look for when you hire?

I’m blown away by the number of employees who treat MB&F like their own company. Honestly, I tell you, I’m a terrible manager, and I can’t give speeches. Therefore, I look for individuals who don’t need others to coddle them — doing their job is their dopamine.

My employees are very ambitious, have high standards, and think “we” instead of “me”. They’re always helping one another. Many people think about making more money, but they have no place in MB&F.