The only buying guide you need for Tiffany & Co.’s Jean Schlumberger designs

Few names in jewellery history are as celebrated as Jean Schlumberger, the French visionary who found his ultimate stage at Tiffany & Co. Joining the American jeweller in 1956, he brought with him a fantastical imagination that translated into creations both witty and refined.

For someone who’s not formally trained in this discipline, his designs have remarkably remained some of the most significant in Tiffany’s modern high jewellery canon, continuing to command reverence from collectors and connoisseurs worldwide.

Among Schlumberger’s most enduring legacies is the Bird on a Rock brooch, first conceived in 1965. A cheeky cockatoo, meticulously set in diamonds and precious gems, perches cheekily upon an enormous coloured stone. It attained iconic status when Tiffany chose to mount its legendary 128.54-carat Fancy Yellow Tiffany Diamond in one such creation. 

Equally memorable is the Sixteen Stone design, a Schlumberger master-stroke in pared-back elegance. The design alternates vibrant gemstones with diamonds across a slim band, striking a balance of colour, light, and rhythm. Its clean yet inventive structure makes it an eternal favourite for those seeking a piece that is both versatile and instantly distinctive.

Part of what made Schlumberger’s work so remarkable at Tiffany was the house’s pioneering use of exotic coloured stones, a tradition that dates back to the mid-19th century. Tiffany was the first to present unknown and under-appreciated stones to the world, and its embrace of coloured diamonds further pushed the boundaries of jewellery. And Schlumberger made full use of that resource.

Considering the designer’s extensive portfolio of amazing creations, it actually pains us to distil his genius into 10 key designs — modern or vintage — that live on today, in this guide.

Still, once you hop onto the Schlumberger train, we know that you will not be able to stop discovering his exceptional artistry where fantasy and craftsmanship converge. Best of all, they remain oh-so-collectable and are every bit the worthy investment. Every jewellery lover must own a piece of Jean Schlumberger.

Seahorse

Jean Schlumberger’s fascination with the sea gave rise to his whimsical seahorse brooches of 1968, where fantasy met naturalism in dazzling form. For the Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder collection, Tiffany & Co. revisits this iconic motif with a fresh, contemporary lens. 

One standout creation is a brooch set with over 9 carats of unenhanced purple sapphires, accented by a blue sapphire, moonstones and diamonds. While retaining the essence of the designer’s original vision, the new interpretation is more abstract and sculptural, offering a modern tribute to one of his most imaginative designs.

Apollo

Schlumberger’s genius for translating myth and nature into jewellery lives on in Tiffany’s Apollo collection, inspired by his 1957 brooch honouring the Greek sun god.

This Apollo by Tiffany ring reimagines this celestial theme with a bold yet refined design: An orb of platinum set with 4.34 carats of pavé diamonds, which radiate with yellow gold rays that curve dramatically towards the centre.

Its sculptural dome underside, with an exposed mise-en-joue setting, allows light to flood through, intensifying the brilliance of each stone. At once architectural and lyrical, the ring embodies Schlumberger’s enduring legacy of transforming divine inspiration into wearable art.

Bird on a Rock

Jean Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock remains one of Tiffany & Co.’s signature designs. Depicting a diamond-set cockatoo perched playfully on a magnificent gemstone, it embodies joy, imagination, and exquisiteness.

While the house has taken the original motif and expanded it into watches and various bird- and winged-jewellery pieces, such as necklaces and rings, a must-have is still the “it” brooch, which can also be worn as a pendant.

One of the latest masterpieces is this head-turning Bird on a Rock, crafted in platinum and gold with an oval cabochon of 24-carat turquoise and round brilliant diamonds totalling 2.19 carats.

Enamel

Introduced in 1962, Schlumberger’s enamel bracelets are among the most enduring and recognisable icons of Tiffany & Co. Reviving the complex 19th-century art of vitreous enamel, Schlumberger perfected the paillonne technique, layering translucent enamel over delicate sheets of gold foil to achieve shimmering colour with remarkable depth.

Each piece demanded extraordinary skill, requiring multiple firings and a jeweller’s precision. A striking example is this Wide Bracelet in yellow gold with blue enamel and 6 carats of round brilliant diamonds.

Starfish

A lover of seaside sojourns, Jean Schlumberger channelled his fascination with denizens of the deep through multiple designs. His repertoire ranged from octopus to coral, barnacles to fish. One timeless example is his Starfish, which is superbly layered and lifelike.

In Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder, the motif is reinterpreted with rare unenhanced Mozambican rubies, celebrated for their vivid saturation and natural fluorescence.

A highlight is the Starfish ring, a platinum and yellow gold jewel that requires around 270 hours of craftsmanship, set with a magnificent 6-carat ruby, 96 rose-cut diamonds, and 119 round diamonds totalling over 4 carats.

Turtle

Schlumberger’s Turtle motif belongs to the designer’s mid-century menagerie for Tiffany & Co., where he distilled natural forms into graphic jewels. The turtle’s geometric carapace — rendered as bold, repeating cells — perfectly suited his visual language.

In Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder, the theme reaches a virtuoso peak with the Sea Turtle transformable brooch-pendant, crafted in platinum and yellow gold over nearly 900 hours. A cushion-cut diamond of over 4 carats anchors the piece, surrounded by rose-cut and round brilliant diamonds totalling over 26 carats.

Hexagonal “scutes”, each built from 24 hand-engraved petals, create hypnotic volume and texture.

Rope

Inspired by his family’s textile manufacturing heritage, Jean Schlumberger’s Rope motif transforms movement into metal, twisted cordage into sinuous links. Incredibly versatile, it has been used to encircle enamel masterpieces, gemstones, and the new Tiffany Rope Watch, but it also stands alone as elegantly textured chains.

The Rope Circle Bracelet in yellow gold is supple on the wrist, attention-grabbing, and simply a gleaming sight to behold. We also love that it is stackable, chic, and can transform a simple outfit into a classy act.

Sixteen Stone

Schlumberger’s popular Sixteen Stone creations distil intimacy and craft into a precious heirloom. Conceived in 1959, its graphic cross-stitch aesthetic was yet another tribute to his family roots in textiles.

Taking the form of a cord of diamonds seemingly sewn together with alternating X gold stitches, it has come to symbolise strength and love’s nurturing force. A standout expression is the 16.5-inch Sixteen Stone by Tiffany Necklace, set in platinum and yellow gold with 7.97 carats of round brilliant diamonds.

Epitomising Schlumberger’s ability to weave sentiment into fine jewels, it is perfect as a daily go-to piece of accessory. In fact, if you have to buy just one not-so-basic necklace that never goes out of style, we think this would be the perfect choice.

Urchin

Jean Schlumberger’s Urchin motif evokes the sea’s alluring geometry into luminous delight. Inspired by spiny echinoderms, he translated marine armour into radiating studs, granulation, and textures. The design sits within his rich oceanic vocabulary — starfish, shells, and seaweed — where organic form meets impeccable craft.

Even his vintage pieces, whether gold-only or enamelled, are highly sought-after today. In Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder, Tiffany & Co. reimagines this icon with contemporary finesse. The new glittering Urchin earrings combine the Urchin with the master’s signature rope design and the house’s famous love of white and yellow diamonds.

Flames

Schlumberger’s Flames designs circa the late 1900s are a testament to his uncanny ability to distil elemental drama into sculptural art. These motifs, born from his fascination with natural energy, feature mixed-metal forms that evoke the flicker and dance of fire.

In this Paris Flames Brooch, crafted in yellow gold and platinum, the dynamic contours unfold like blazing tendrils, each meticulously assembled by hand. Accentuating the brooch’s intense movement are round brilliant diamonds totalling 1.32 carats, which ignite the centre with scintillating light.