Chanel reimagines its first watch, the Premiere, with a couture-inspired gold braid bangle

When Chanel launched the Premiere in 1987, it was a watershed moment that also heralded the creation of the maison’s watchmaking arm. 

Befitting of the occasion, the Premiere was a singularly unique timepiece that didn’t follow conventions. Instead of borrowing the aesthetics of men’s timepieces, as most women’s watches did at the time, it emerged from a purely feminine point of view, just like how Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel had envisioned her brand.

Its octagonal case echoed the stopper of the No. 5 perfume bottle; its chain bracelet mirrored the leather-threaded strap of the maison’s classic quilted handbags; and its minimalist black lacquer dial bore no indices.

The Premiere became the horological counterpart to Chanel’s haute couture language — effortlessly chic, instantly timeless, and unmistakably Parisian. And following the footsteps of the style icons that came before it, the watch began to evolve into solid-gold, bejewelled, ceramic, multi-strap versions, and more.

Style reset

Today, the design undergoes its most radical bracelet reinvention yet with the launch of the Premiere Galon, which is inspired by Chanel’s couture sensibility. 

Gabrielle Chanel famously trimmed the edges of her jackets with braided galons, embellishments that not only adorned but also structured her silhouettes. For this new collection, the galon is transformed into jewellery.

Crafted entirely in yellow gold, the bracelet is a rigid, sculptural bangle that slides onto the wrist with ease. Twisted and cleanly contoured, it is more than just a bold new feminine expression; it brings the aesthetic of Chanel’s ateliers directly to the wrist.

Yet, the essence of the Premiere remains. The case retains its signature dimensions at 19.7mm by 15.2mm by 7.5mm, while the lacquered black, index-free dial stays true to its original purity. Through three models, the new Premiere Galon flexes its contemporary appeal.

Refined luminosity

Showcasing the sculptural beauty of the gold braid are two Premiere Galon creations, both encased in octagonal yellow gold and crowned with an onyx cabochon or a brilliant-cut diamond.

Imbued with the most understated aesthetic, the first is nearly free of gem embellishment and yet already turns heads. It is the closest spiritual successor to the original 1987 Premiere, maintaining the bold simplicity that made the watch a worldwide sensation.

The second gold model introduces a soft glimmer of stones tracing its contrasting contours — with 0.24 carats of 52 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.24 carat) on the bezel, and 0.76 carats of 80 stones adorning the bracelet’s undulating curves.

At the pinnacle of the collection is the Premiere Galon Diamonds, a dazzling high jewellery interpretation in yellow gold that magnifies the sophisticated braid through extraordinary gem-setting. With a total of 682 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing about 5.43 carats decorating the dial, case, bracelet, and clasp, the watch becomes a statement of luminosity.

The transformation starts at the dial, paved with 108 diamonds, resembling a field of light and Madame Coco’s tweed at the same time. An astonishing 573 diamonds of approximately 4.90 carats wrap around the braided bangle, in rows of two, in continuous spirals. 

This precious reference also boasts a solid gold non-screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond, and hands in the same metal. Despite its mesmerising radiance, this reference maintains the line’s sleek silhouette, balanced proportions, and enduring elegance.

Fitted with a high-precision Swiss quartz movement, all three models are water-resistant to 30m and available in sizes XS to L for all wrists. Bangle watches are hot this season, but if there is one that screams sheer style, this is it.