Richard Mille ups the ante on colour science by developing summer-inspired shades of its Quartz TPT material

In a world where luxury often means playing it safe or subtle, Richard Mille thrives on taking the road less travelled by incorporating an audacious blend of colour, cutting-edge materials, and technical prowess into its avant-garde timepieces. The RM 65-01, launched in 2020, is a prime example. 

A product of five years’ development, the model was a game-changer, as it set a new benchmark for what luxury watches could represent. Not only was it the manufacture’s first split-seconds chronograph, it was also its most complex automatic winding watch with a total of 600 components. Additionally, it marked the first time that such a complication was serially produced and became a permanent addition to the Richard Mille line-up. 

Chromatic finesse

This year, the RM 65-01 collection gets a summer-ready update — with two vibrant new colours in the manufacture's high-tech Quartz TPT. Each bold iteration evokes a different mood and energy: The pastel blue version recalls the tranquillity of azure skies, while the highly saturated dark yellow one captures the sun’s intense energy. But as any Richard Mille devotee would know, the brand’s watch cases are often as complex as its movements, and there’s more to these colours than meets the eye.

Quartz TPT is a material that Richard Mille has perfected over the years. Generally used for very high-performance applications, thanks to its resistance to high temperatures, strength, and transparency to electromagnetic waves, it is a cornerstone of what makes Richard Mille watches stunning and robust.

Developed in collaboration with North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), Quartz TPT comprises hundreds of layers of silica fibres, each thinner than a strand of fine hair at 45 microns. These layers are stacked in precise angles and then heated under intense pressure to create a material that withstands the rigours of daily wear, while maintaining its eye-catching appearance. 

While introducing new shades might seem par for the course in the world of horology, the fact is that developing them for such a sophisticated, industrial-quality quartz composite required a lengthy period of intensive R&D. Colour development is, however, an expensive and laborious challenge that Richard Mille is well-known to undertake.

Colour meets complexity

The stunning skeletonised dial packs a punch with a variety of functions, with each indication ingeniously colour coded to enhance readability. For instance, on the pastel blue reference, the hours, minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock are marked in white; the chronograph’s sweep seconds hand, and the 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers are in yellow; while the date is highlighted in cobalt blue. This thoughtful colour coding extends to the pushers and crown, ensuring the wearer can effortlessly navigate the watch's numerous functions.

Beneath the vibrant exterior of the RM 65-01 lies the calibre RMAC4. A modern engineering marvel, the automatic movement beats at a high frequency of 5 Hz, a feature that elevates the watch’s performance. While frequency might not be a go-to topic for everyone, understanding the basics is key to appreciating the RM 65-01’s advanced capabilities.

A chronograph running at 5 Hz outperforms the more common 4 Hz alternative in terms of functionality. With a 5 Hz movement, the balance oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph), which means it can measure elapsed time down to 1/10th of a second on the dial. In contrast, a 4 Hz chronograph can only track intervals to 1/8th of a second. What also distinguishes the RM 65-01 is its split-seconds chronograph, which enables the wearer to measure intermediate times with a level of precision that few watches can match. This high-frequency calibre is a nod to racing, where every fraction of a second counts. 

The movement features a six-column wheel architecture and fast-rotating barrel that ensures consistent torque and power delivery throughout the watch’s impressive 60-hour power reserve. The use of titanium for the chassis and bridges adds to the watch’s durability, making it both lightweight and strong. The chronograph underwent a battery of tests to ensure flawless performance in any situation. These included shock and drop simulations, accelerated 10-year ageing phases for all its functions, as well as waterproof and magnetic field resistance trials. 

Another first for the brand is the rapid-winding mechanism on this 49.9mm by 44.5mm timepiece. Developed in addition to the automatic winding and winding with the crown, it allows the barrel to be quickly reset should the watch stop. By activating the pusher at 8 o’clock, the wearer can wind the barrel fully in just 125 presses. This function is ideal for quickly rearming the watch if it has not been worn for an extended period of time. It’s a playful yet practical feature that reflects Richard Mille’s flair for the unexpected.

Let’s not forget the function selector housed within the crown. This enables the wearer to switch between traditional winding, date adjustment, and time setting with ease. It’s a small detail, but one that adds to the overall user experience, making the RM 65-01 as intuitive as it is complex.