Whether space, sky or sea, Panerai conquers them all

Stepping into Panerai’s booth at Watches and Wonders 2025 is like being submerged in an endless blue yonder. Screens of underwater scenes filled the walls, while visitors studied the maison’s latest maritime creations through water-filled tanks. However, taking pride of place at the centre of the space as the showpiece is the the 75cm-wide and 86cm-tall Jupiterium clock.

True to Panerai’s spirit of adventure, it has decided to push boundaries into two universes that have so far eluded most of mankind: space and the deep sea. And who knew they’d both have something to do with the brand’s Italian heritage?

Far and away

Galileo Galilei’s telescope revealed Jupiter’s four moons in 1610, dismantling the geocentric world view. Four centuries later, Panerai’s Jupiterium recreates that astronomical dance — not through glass lenses, but with 1,650 titanium components, eight barrel springs spanning 32m, and a patented mechanism that’d only require a watchmaker’s intervention in year 9999.

Presented as a glass-encased sphere, the key-wound Jupiterium depicts two hemispheres, Northern and Southern, connected by a band symbolising the earth’s equator and engraved with the 12 zodiac signs. This celestial vault rotates every 23 hours, 56 minutes, and 4 seconds — a sidereal day. Earth sits centrally, with Italy facing outward when viewed from the front, which is a nod to Galileo’s vantage and Panerai’s Florentine roots.

Orbiting faithfully are the sun, moon, and Jupiter, on real-time paths driven by a manual-winding movement with a linear perpetual calendar, accurate until 2099 without adjustment. The retrograde function mimics Jupiter’s apparent backward motion — an illusion caused by earth overtaking it in orbit. Gears and counterweights replicate this celestial quirk, a technical feat underscoring Panerai’s horological ambition.

Beneath the rotating constellations on a mahogany base, a black dial echoes Panerai’s marine instruments: luminescent numerals, a 40-day linear power reserve gauge, and the perpetual calendar indicating day, date, month, and year arranged in a linear display. More than a clock, the Jupiterium is a mechanical cosmos where the great Galileo’s stars still turn.

Landward bound

Back on earth, Panerai accompanies the intrepid from one continent to another with the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575. Combining advanced mechanics and materials with the house’s iconic design, this piece is part of the maison’s expanding high-end range for collectors.

Crafted from Platinumtech, an innovative alloy with 95 per cent pure platinum, this elevated creation boasts a 44mm case that is 40 per cent harder than standard platinum, which is already highly durable and scratch-resistant. Complementing it is a rich blue sapphire crystal dial offering a transparent window into the intriguing display discs.

The watch’s dual-time GMT function is supported by a specially designed spring system to reduce wear and tear, and ensue smooth transitions between time zones. Additionally, Panerai’s date shock protection system stabilises the date disc, preventing misalignment caused by impacts and enhancing the watch’s durability.

Powered by the automatic mechanical P.4100 calibre movement developed over ten years, it features a three-day power reserve and an intuitive adjustment system that allows the wearer to modify the day, date, month, and leap year settings using only the crown. With a perpetual calendar that accurately calculates dates until the year 2399, this timepiece offers unparalleled precision and ease of use.

Water-resistant to 50m and tested to withstand a pressure 25 per cent greater than the guaranteed water resistance value, it comes with a dark blue alligator strap and a blue rubber strap, making it suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

Into the deep

Even the depths of the oceans pose no challenge for Panerai, which unveils five references within the military-meets-maritime Luminor Marina series. Available in four steel versions and a high-tech titanium model, these 44mm creations maintain the collection’s key elements while debuting sleeker dimensions, a cleaner dial with an enlarged date display, and the improved Super-LumiNova X2 that glows more brightly than its predecessor.

Powered by the automatic mechanical P.980 calibre movement with a three-day power reserve, the watches offer stop-seconds functionality and are subjected to rigorous testing for chronometric performance. For the first time ever, water-resistance is increased to 500m, marking a significant upgrade in performance.

Another noteworthy feature is the new and exceptionally robust Luminor Marina steel crafted from Panerai’s premium, low-carbon alloy. Putting the metal on show is reference PAM03323, which also introduces a reengineered V-shaped tapering bracelet design for a lighter feel, alongside a new Quick Length Adjustment feature that allows easy tool-free extension of 2mm on each side. Like the other strap models, this watch’s steel bracelet is equipped with the PAM Click Release System.

A showcase of Panerai’s material expertise is the Titanio PAM03325, which features a Grade 5 titanium case that is lightweight, strong and corrosion-resistant. In fact, the metal has a longstanding heritage at the brand, with its use beginning in the 80s for applications required by naval operations. Together with its olive-green sun-brushed dial and vintage-inspired dark green scamosciato calf strap, it is a veritable ode to Panerai’s military heritage.