Bvlgari’s iconic snake motif transforms through the seasons in four limited-edition models by Tadao Ando

The visionary Japanese architect works his magic again in this first-ever jewellery watch collaboration with the Roman maison.

Photo: Bvlgari
Photo: Bvlgari
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The latest collaborator to fall under the spell of the Serpenti is renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who has reimagined Bvlgari’s enduring signature icon with a fresh, poetic perspective. While the snake motif has undergone countless metamorphoses over the decades ever since it debuted at the house in 1948, this time, it honours nature’s transient beauty.

A master’s touch

This exquisite collection follows Ando’s recent partnerships with the Roman maison, in 2020 and 2021 on the Octo Finissimo high horology series. With its clean lines and focus on pure geometry, the Octo Finissimo design echoed Ando’s architectural principles — particularly his love of simplicity and circularity.

One fundamental model in this earlier collaboration was the Mikazuki edition, which symbolised the waxing crescent moon, uniquely Japanesely capturing the quiet elegance of time’s passage. This theme — that time is not static but in constant flux — has always been a consistent element of Ando’s work.

Deeply rooted in his cultural background, this concept has translated beautifully into his designs for Bvlgari. The spiral pattern he created for the Octo Finissimo was another fitting metaphor for time’s cyclical nature, which Ando often explores in his architectural projects.

Take, for instance, his concrete constructions, which blend seamlessly into their surroundings. The Hyogo Prefectural Museum, located in a magnificent setting overlooking mountains and an inland sea, is an emblematic creation built around natural light that interacts with his refined lines. 

The Tadao Ando x Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas limited-edition watch collection is also available in a boxed set of only 20. (Photo: Bvlgari)

The Tadao Ando x Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas limited-edition watch collection is also available in a boxed set of only 20. (Photo: Bvlgari)

United by a shared artistic language rooted in nature, it is not surprising that Ando and Bvlgari have again joined forces in the latest evolution of the Serpenti Tubogas. 

As the house’s executive director of product creation, Buonamassa Buonamassa Stigliani, explains, “Aligning with Serpenti felt instinctive. In a metaphor for time and transformation, indeed for the renewal of nature itself: the serpent likewise sheds its skin and emerges anew, its colours transformed.”

A remarkable tribute

An ode to the seasons, each piece in the Tadao Ando x Bvlgari Serpenti collection reflects nature's ephemeral personality, capturing the delicate interplay of light, form, and material. 

This range, presented in four limited editions, perfectly blends Ando’s minimalist philosophy and Bvlgari’s rich heritage. The coiling reptile, which has long symbolised life, renewal, and transformation, now gains an even deeper significance with this new interpretation.

The summer and autumn models are in green aventurine and tiger's eye, respectively. (Photo: Bvlgari)

The summer and autumn models are in green aventurine and tiger's eye, respectively. (Photo: Bvlgari)

Ando envisioned marquetry made from ornamental stones to evoke the essence of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. With the expertise of Bvlgari’s artisans, his vision has been translated into reality with finesse through the selection of the finest stones and meticulous assembly. Two rows of diamonds surround each alluringly reflective dial, further elevating the materials’ ethereal beauty.

Summer (natsu) takes shape on a vibrant green aventurine dial, which captures the lush, sun-soaked energy of a verdant forest. Its yellow gold with steel case and bracelet provide a striking contrast, enhancing the vividness of the greens.

As autumn (aki) arrives, the dial takes on a warm, golden hue thanks to tiger’s eye, echoing the fiery shades of fall leaves. Set entirely in rose gold, with a pink rubellite on the crown, it evokes the earthy richness synonymous with temperate climates this time of the year.

The winter and spring models are in white and pink mother-of-pearl, respectively. (Photo: Bvlgari)

The winter and spring models are in white and pink mother-of-pearl, respectively. (Photo: Bvlgari)

Winter (fuyu) is represented by the iridescent elegance of white mother-of-pearl on the dial, suggesting a snow-covered landscape, while the steel case and bracelet lend a sleek touch.

Finally, spring (haru) is celebrated with delicate pink mother-of-pearl marquetry. Inspired by Japan’s cherry blossom season, this piece encapsulates springtime, with its gentle hues signalling long-awaited rebirth.

The collection’s artistry extends beyond the watches. Each piece comes in a bespoke box, personally signed by Tadao Ando, while the back of each watch case also bears his signature.

There are also 20 boxed sets presenting all four timepieces as a complete ensemble, perfect for collectors who appreciate the fusion of luxury, art, and nature.

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