The Van Cleef & Arpels Zodiaque is the one fine jewellery piece worth buying this year

The start of the year often signals a comeback for Western zodiac jewellery, but why buy just any symbolic accessory when you can invest in something that endures in style and value? Whether your star sign is Virgo or Leo, we’re certain that quality, heritage, and longevity appeal to you.

Here’s introducing the Van Cleef & Arpels Zodiaque collection, which features yellow gold bracelets and white gold pendants in new interpretations of its medal designs.

Neither a trend-led revival nor a mere decorative nod to astrology, zodiac medals have long been part of the maison’s fine jewellery vocabulary. If you’re planning to shop for a luxury jewellery creation this year, one that is as rich in craftsmanship and wearability as the Zodiaque is it. And here are three reasons why.

1. Zodiac signs make the most personal good-luck charms

Astrology has never really gone out of fashion, and remains a language many people use to understand and anchor themselves today. Even among the most powerful and successful historical figures, astrology was not dismissed as frivolous.

Gabrielle Chanel, a Leo, openly identified with her sign, using lions as recurring symbols of confidence and personal authority. Queen Elizabeth I, a Virgo, relied on court astrologer John Dee when making decisions of state. Even Carl Jung, born under the star sign of Leo, took astrology seriously — not as mysticism, but as a tool for understanding personality patterns and the unconscious.

In a modern world that moves quickly and often feels unpredictable, a personal good-luck charm seems like a very good idea. Western zodiac signs, tied to birth dates and identity, feel especially intimate.

Since its founding in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has built its creative universe around luck, happiness, and poetic symbolism — from four-leaf clovers and fairies to stars and celestial themes. Zodiac motifs have also appeared in its collections since the 1950s, continuing a long-standing design philosophy rooted in meaning.

2. It offers a real connection to Van Cleef & Arpels’ heritage

For many admirers of Van Cleef & Arpels, owning a piece of the maison’s mid to high jewellery can feel like a distant dream. Fortunately, the Zodiaque offers a genuine entry point into the house’s renowned patrimony.

The zodiac medals that inspired this new collection first appeared in the 1950s as part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ La Boutique universe: precious, everyday jewels designed to be worn and lived with. What makes the current Zodiaque line so special is that it is crafted by the same high jewellery artisans who work on the maison’s most important creations.

Traditional stamping techniques are used, with up to eight strikes required to create the relief and depth of each sign. The medals are then gently patinated and polished by hand to highlight contrasts in texture and shine. That shared artisanal pedigree carries weight. You are essentially wearing a jewel shaped by the same hands, standards, and savoir faire that define Van Cleef & Arpels at its highest expression.

And what beauties they are. Each medal’s two sides respectively illustrate the representation of the zodiac signs, as well as their symbols and dates in Roman numerals. For instance, the Virgo sign is delicately portrayed by a young woman with a unicorn, the Aries ram is characterised by its textured fleece and fiery stance, while the majestic pose of the Leo lion draws on ancient iconography.

3. A modern medal that is elegant and personal

Medal jewellery is rarely seen today, which is exactly why the Zodiaque feels so fresh. On the bracelet, the 16mm yellow gold medal, suspended from the chain with a jump ring, is thoughtfully positioned close to the clasp. This allows it to swing joyfully with the wrist rather than sit front and centre.

The 21mm white gold medal pendant slides onto your choice of a 50cm or 70cm chain, which is sold seperately. In true Van Cleef & Arpels style, the aesthetics are refined and discreet — nothing like the loud, flashy versions of decades past.

Styling-wise, these pieces are effortlessly versatile. Wear it alone as a daily talisman, or power it up with other Van Cleef & Arpels lucky pieces, such as the Alhambra designs. The bracelet can also be stacked with a watch for a more contemporary edge. And because zodiac symbols are universally recognisable, these creations naturally become conversation starters.

In a time when luxury jewellery is increasingly about storytelling and individual resonance, the Zodiaque collection is definitely one that makes sense.