[dropcap size=small]A[/dropcap]t this 22-year-old establishment, it’s not just the silver cloches covering your food during service that are polished to perfection. The space – which underwent a $1.5 million rejuvenation just in 2015 – is timelessly elegant; the service is smooth, suave yet friendly; the wine selection remains in a class of its own; and the food is almost faultless.
The injection of a suitable amount of quaint details – from the exclusive-to-Asia Le Ponclet butter served in fewer than 20 restaurants worldwide, to beautiful porcelain bowls with a perforated, lace-like rim handcrafted by German craftswoman Stefanie Hering – further elevates the meal to a truly luxurious treat for all senses. All components come together to create the refinement of this grand dame, and the effortless charm is made possible by a very competent and confident team in every area of the restaurant.
Executive chef Sebastien Lepinoy – previously of one-Michelin-star Cepage in Hong Kong – is the man pushing the enterprise forward. His meticulous style is displayed through the thoughtfulness of the various components on each plate.
Humble potatoes cooked just tender and cut into petals become the perfect vehicle for savouring caviar and silky creme fraiche: clean, simple, yet indulgent.
A lobster mousse enrobed in baby spinach and sitting in a shallow pool of fish bone broth comes served at just the perfect temperature – hot enough to warm one from the inside. A combination of pan seared foie gras from Vendee and French eel knocks one out with its unctuous richness, yet a side of piping hot dashi will revive and ready one for the next course.
The sommeliers are quick to make excellent recommendations based on your order, and are enthusiastic about sharing additions to their massive collection with aficionados.
And, unlike most restaurants where a server is attached to specific tables, the entire service team has eyes on every table in the room, ready to swoop in gracefully should there be a hint of anybody requiring assistance, be it simply to check on an order or to expound on the provenance of a certain ingredient on the plate. Yet, one never feels like he is being watched – just being watched over.
#01-16, 1 Scotts Rd