The oldest champagne house’s newest vintage has arrived in time for spring sipping. The Dom Ruinart 2004 has a delicate nose – just imagine taking a deep breath in a field of irises and lily-of-the-valleys – that eases you into its more direct and fresh palate. Expect to taste grapefruit and kumquat with the slightest hint of gentian, and that touch of salinity you detect at the end will make this the perfect accompaniment to a seafood feast. But think light: Peruvian ceviche and lobster caviar will be sure to please.