It’s been months since overseas travel has been struck off the global menu, and it’s a well-missed affair. No amount of travel inspiration or staycations can really replicate that experience. After all, travelling is more than just about, well, going somewhere else – it’s the journey that matters. Only natural then, to consider a trip down to Fat Cow. That is, if a wagyu-focused culinary journey excites you.
The award-winning restaurant has spent just over a decade tucked in an understated part of Orchard Boulevard. An unassuming facade belies an exquisite wabi-sabi style interior that’s all about muted hues and wooden adornments. Its equally reserved chef, Shigeru Kasajima, has held court at French, Russian and of course, Japanese kitchens for more than three decades.
Wagyu is very much the star of the show here, if Fat Cow’s dry-aging chiller – the first thing you see entering the entrance, even before the reception counter – stocked to the gills with premium Japanese beef wasn’t enough of a hint. They’ve sourced eight varieties of Wagyu here from prefectures across Japan, each with its own unique characteristics.
That commitment to Japanese ingredients carries over into their treatment of the Wagyu. The meal begins with a clear, Japanese-style oxtail soup that doesn’t so much as titillate as it comforts – though its exactly the kind of warmth you’d want before an indulgent meal.
The same can be said for their sukiyaki – A4 Ohmi Wagyu is carefully selected for its lower-than-usual fat melting point of 20 degrees Celsius. After a brief swishing in Fat Cow’s housemade sukiyaki sauce, the slices of meat are dunked in the requisite raw egg, sukiyaki sauce and given a hit of black truffle.
Equally decadent is their chirashi bowl that features some A4 Saga done a la kobujimei (cured in kombu). Cuts are sealed in kelp for a few days in an effort to lend the meat some of its umami, before being presented over sushi rice along with tonburi mountain caviar (actually a seed), koji miso and sansho pepper. It’s covered with a little gold leaf for some extra panache, and served along a trio of pickles imported from Kyoto.
As an add-on, consider the three-week dry-aged A5 Nagasaki Wagyu (the same cut that goes on their famed premium donburis) grilled over binchotan. The white charcoal lends some smokiness to the unctuous beef. It’s distinctly funky in an endearing way and blends well into heavier-tasting courses like the sukiyaki.
Fat Cow’s Wagyu omakase menu is filled with the kind of indulgence you’d reserve for meals on special occasions, but its handled with all the poise and subtlety you’ve come to expect from a restaurant that’s held its place in Singapore for over ten years.
1 Orchard Blvd, #01-01/02 Camden Medical Centre. Tel: 6735-0308