This ancient champagne ceremony still lives on in Singapore 

Raising a silver baton in the shape of a pomponne champagne flute, Michel Drappier, the seventh-generation owner of Champagne Drappier, dressed in flowing white ceremonial robes, solemnly proclaims to a group of people standing in front of him: “And I name you Chevalier and Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne”

Adding pizzazz to the stately ceremony, trumpet music punctuates each segment, a light tinkling of champagne flutes fills the air and the fraternity’s slogan “Champagne only comes from Champagne!” is cheerfully uttered numerous times throughout the night.

It may look like a peculiar scene for the uninitiated, but this is played out at the induction ceremony of the Singapore chapter of champagne society, Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, which was founded in 1656 by aristocrats in the court of French King Louis the XIVth.

The French organisation celebrates and promotes the bubbly from Champagne in North-east France through its 15 chapters around the world. They include the Singapore outpost, which was formed in 2008 and has around 80 members. It is led by Nicola Lee, the chapter’s Singapore ambassador, who is also the Academy Chair, South-East Asia (South) of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. 

In its eighth edition, the biennial event, which was held at the Shangri-La Hotel on May 25,  comprises a formal ceremony, where its members are inducted into the order as chevaliers or officiers, based on their contributions and support to the champagne industry. The credentials and contributions of the inductee are read out by a panel of honchos of various champagne houses before medals are draped around their necks.

A total of 40 chevaliers of the champagne and beverage industry in Singapore, Malaysia, the Philippines, South Korea, Spain and France were inducted into the order. They include sommeliers, beverage directors and distributors, who have been recognised for their efforts in promoting the bubbly. Some bon vivants from the corporate, healthcare and law sectors were also inducted at the ceremony.

A bumper crop of 40 new cheveliars inducted

Noteworthy inductees in the 2025 batch include Jordi Chan, group sommelier of Imperial Treasure restaurants, Yong Yi Ying, Assistant head sommelier of wine-centric private members club, 67 Pall Mall, Ocean Kang, sommelier at one-Michelin-starred contemporary Korean restaurant, Nae:um, Yeo Leelyne, general manager of Culina Singapore and Matthew Lamb, group beverage director at The Lo & Behold Group, who organised Uncorked: Champagne festival in March.

 
13 members were also promoted to Officier status. They include Sebastien Lepinoy, director of culinary and operations at three-Michelin-starred French restaurant, Les Amis and Harmin Kaur, CEO and founder of strategic advisory firm Stellaire, which also organises arts and cultural experiences. 

Kaur says: “Being promoted to ‘Officier’ is both an honour and a responsibility — a call to continue championing the rich heritage and craftsmanship behind Champagne. To me, it’s also a form of cultural diplomacy: a meaningful way to connect with another culture, share in its storied past, and carry forward its traditions in ways that resonate with today’s world.”

Nicola Lee, the Singapore Ambassador of Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, says: “Since 2007, the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne has been proudly recognising industry leaders and valued partners in Singapore.”

“Each Chapitre brings together our thriving and dynamic community and the evening is marked with grandeur and ceremony, yet with a wonderful feeling of family. This year, we welcomed a significant number of sommeliers into the Order - celebrating their vital roles in shaping the Champagne experience for the guest.”

The Reims-based Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne counts about 25 prestigious champagne houses and grape growers as its members. Nine champagne houses, which are mostly independent and family-run, include Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Champagne Drappier, Champagne Laurent Perrier, Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte and Champagne Pol Roger. Two champagne houses, Champagne Canard Duchene and Champagne Henriot participated in the proceedings for the first time.

One of the highlights of the night was the presentation of prestige cuvees by the champagne houses at a gala dinner. They include the Brut Millesime 2025 by Champagne Taittinger, which is exclusively produced from first press wines and boasts a lively freshness that morphs into aromas of white flowers and fresh fruit, and Pol Roger Vinothèque Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2002, named in honour of the former UK prime minister. 

Singapore remains an important market for champagne with about 1.5 million litres of bubbly imported in 2024 into the trading hub. The Republic also serves as an important re-exportation hub for shipping champagne around the region.

Michel Drappier, owner of Champagne Drappier, the order’s vice commander shared with The Peak that the organisation is working towards having a more gender-balanced mix of members and sharpening its focus on pairing champagne with food, especially with Asian cuisine.

He says: “Champagne was a product of celebrations, but we want it to move towards the gastronomical realm. Due to champagne’s acidity and freshness, it pairs very well with Chinese and spicy food. Champagne works with many Asian dishes as the cuisine is light, elegant and refined. We are exploring more ways of having champagne in meals and in cocktails.”