This is why Jakarta deserves a place in the world’s culinary history, according to chef Aditya Muskita of ESA

Growing up in Jakarta, Aditya Muskita, chef-partner of contemporary ESA Restaurant, found comfort in semur, a beef stew dish with colonial Dutch roots. The nostalgic dish might be fading out, but at ESA, which opened in January 2023, the biefstuk (beef steak in Dutch), which is inspired by semur, proudly sits on the menu. 

A modern interpretation of biefstuk, the grilled slab of wagyu with an intensely earthy Jakarta “mole” sauce made from spices used in semur betawi, and a lor mai kai-styled rice steamed in fragrant lotus leaf. 

“It is my mission to preserve the foundation of Indonesia’s culinary culture through innovation,” declares the 33-year-old. “These simple stories of food and how we eat deserve a place in the world’s culinary history.”

ESA serves what Aditya bills as “new Jakarta cuisine”, an idiosyncratic cuisine shaped by the city’s melting pot of ethnicities, incorporating Dutch, Arabic, Banten-Chinese, Indian, and Betawi influences. 

At ESA, the canapes are inspired by street snacks like kaastengel (cheese cookies), and dishes like besan take reference from sayur besan, a Banten wedding dish of coconut milk-based soup with spices and sugarcane flowers. The modern interpretation features a scallop and curry foam at the heart of its spice-dusted shell.

Innovate ahead

Unbounded by Indonesian culinary traditions, Aditya interprets Jakarta flavours through fresh perspectives, modern European techniques and cross-cultural experimentation. He also draws inspiration from home cooks’ creativity and Jakarta’s fast-paced energy. 

He says: “Cuisine, for me, isn’t tied to rigid traditions; it’s based on our interpretation. Growing up in a progressive city like Jakarta, we all have a sense of innovation. The ingredients might be the same, yet each family has its own way of preparing dishes.” 

Over his 13-year career, Aditya has worked at restaurants like Mozaic, Room 4 Dessert, and Parachute, all in Bali; Relae in Copenhagen; and Olives by Todd English in New York City. However, it was in Singapore, where he lived for close to four years and found the spark to pursue a culinary career.

After graduating with a Diploma in Culinary Arts at At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy, he worked as a trainee chef at Marina Bay Sands.

At the integrated resort, he met chef Saiful Effendy, who nurtured his interest in the fine-dining world. Saiful gave the budding chef a cookbook from renowned contemporary French restaurant The French Laundry and encouraged him to take up a traineeship at db Bistro, helmed by chef Daniel Boulud. 

After working overseas, he returned to Jakarta in 2016 to work as chef de cuisine in the Potato Head Group, where he learnt about restaurant operations and branding under the tutelage of its founder, Ronald Akili.

Spurred by growing demand for fine-dining experiences in Jakarta, he partnered with hospitality veteran Jessica Eveline and food writer Kevindra Soemantri to open Esa in the SCBD business district. He says: “We decided to open as we believe that Jakarta is ready to receive a contemporary version of Indonesian cuisine.” 

On what makes the Jakarta fine-dining scene unique, Aditya, who has a Chinese mother from Bandung and an Ambonese father, says it boils down to Indonesia’s cultural diversity, which trickles down into all aspects of life.

“We all grew up being exposed to so many different cultures, flavours, and techniques from Bali, Java, Sumatra, Manado, and more.” Looking ahead, he hopes to present his vision for the future of Indonesian cuisine in upcoming menus.

This is the second of a three-part special series on Jakarta’s fine-dining scene.