Mount Fuji sheds her mysterious cloak to reveal a cheerful side in early summer

Exalted through lore and legend, Mount Fuji has a looming reputation for an enigmatic kind of beauty. She is ethereal in spring, and come winter, the scenery feels mystical and even foreboding. But what if I were to tell you that the mountain takes on a surprising gaiety in summer?

It’s an unpopular opinion among Singaporeans that Japan is wonderful during the warm months. Still, in the case of Fujisan, that is a fact — especially if you holiday at Hoshinoya Fuji. 

While the commanding mountain sprawls across 17 municipalities in two prefectures, Shizuoka and Yamanashi, there is a gem of a small resort town called Fujikawaguchiko on the northern foothills of Yamanashi, where Hoshinoya Fuji is based. And this is where you’d possibly experience a side of Fujisan (and Japan) you’d hardly imagine.

Hello, nature!

It took me about two hours, in mid-June, to self-drive westwards from Tokyo Haneda Airport across the mountainous green spine of Japan’s Kanto region to get to Fuji. Having never driven in the country or visited that area, I didn’t know what to expect. But it was so painless — car rental (from Nippon Rent-A-Car 10min by shuttle from the airport) was efficient, roads were clear, and drivers were patient and respectful. 

Upon arrival at a modern-minimalist reception shed within the car park, I was asked to choose from a wall lined with coloured backpacks, each slung with a bell. In mine, there was a map, a portable lamp, binoculars, and an inflatable cushion.

Why? Hoshinoya Fuji is the country’s first glamping (glam-camping) resort destination that brings you as close to nature as possible — with all the comforts the luxury hospitality brand could muster. Check-in, after being ferried by a four-wheel-drive shuttle to the front desk, was a breeze. It was here that I understood why the property is so highly praised by guests: a stunning bird’s-eye view of Fujisan, fronted by Lake Kawaguchi. 

Stylish and sleek, the expansive 6ha property estate is built on a temperate forest slope, with multiple tiers of facilities. This main front desk level features the lobby lounge, restaurant, and souvenir shopping space. Immediately down-slope is a labyrinth of 40 stone-lined guest rooms, called “cabins”, which are linked by paths to take one to a nearby sheltered waiting point for the resort shuttle or tour pick-ups.

Uphill from this level, wood-lined steps cut into the slope take guests to the main activity areas, all sheltered by an endless canopy that the environment is cool even during summer. You’d first reach the Cloud Terrace, an expansive wooden deck furnished with benches, before arriving at the Cloud Kitchen, a space surrounded by hammocks where cooking lessons are held.

Ahead is the Library Cafe, where daily complimentary afternoon tea is served. Situated in the adjacent open space is the Tabiki Bar hosting bonfires and nightly live concerts. Right at the top is a tranquil spot for yoga and aerial stretching.

Herein lies the irresistible allure of Hoshinoya Fuji: nature, adventure, and indulgence all rolled into one — very picturesque, swish, and Instagrammable.

Decadent glamping

To glamp at Hoshinoya would be to experience Fujisan as graciously as possible. The panorama was something I could never get enough of from my cabin, which is more akin to a compact standalone villa, although some rooms are located in double-storey structures.

Both a picture window as wide as the room, and a large covered balcony decked out with lounge beds, offer an unobstructed view. During my three-night stay, the weather was fair, with temperatures ranging from 30 deg C during the day to around 22 deg C at night. With clear blue skies overhead, the mythical mountain looked less imposing and quite entertaining.

It was simply entrancing to sit, at length, and take in the bird song filling the air as kites swooped by. In the backdrop under puffs of cloud, Mount Fuji was dark green and sculptural. Throughout the day, I’d take quick glimpses to see if she’s wearing an adorable cloud beret or had decided to expose her bare, rocky peak.

If you noticed that I used female pronouns for the mountain, it’s because in Japanese culture, Mount Fuji is considered the home of the Shinto goddess Konohanasakuya-hime, who is associated with blossoms and volcanoes. Feminine imagery and narratives were the conventions in traditional poetry and tales. 

And Hoshinoya Fuji makes it so easy to throw yourself into her embrace. Guests can opt for easy days with a Forest Pizza Workshop, aided by an outdoor oven; a Food Smoking Workshop, using local wood chips; or an Outdoor Sweets Time session, featuring individually served desserts, fresh juices, and sparkling wine made from local koshu grapes. 

The more active could go for a tranquil morning walk, guided by a competent English-speaking staff member, who’d take you on a meander around the resort’s forest. There, I discovered interesting facts about the cypresses, maples, pines, indigenous insects, and the hotel’s tree replanting efforts. 

Highly recommended is the aerial stretching class overlooking the entire estate. Taught by an English-speaking yoga instructor, who’d of course assess your ability level, my pleasant one-hour session combined moments of contemplation with a variety of fun poses, including inversions and the Superman. 

Should your knees fail you, since the property requires a basic level of physicality to climb up and down, a complimentary activity in the lobby lets you enjoy various natural wood and plum scents through a water-distillation method. You’re even given a small vial to take back to the cabin to complement the cypress sachet for soaking in the full-sized bathtub.

This space is also where the restaurant is located. Hoshinoya Fuji focuses on a Gastronomic Wild concept, which incorporates native ingredients and regional culinary traditions into contemporary Japanese-European fusion cuisine.

Forget sushi and sashimi; instead, savour its prix fixe dinner featuring charcoal-grilled dishes, beautifully presented as camping-inspired art on elaborate tableware. For mine, I savoured a locally sourced large trout tartare with caviar, and flamed wagyu beef and venison.

Should you have a hankering for something authentic and straightforward, the a la carte menu offers Yamanashi specialities such as thick, slurpy hoto noodles and delicious curries. Another gourmet highlight here is the red wine sukiyaki hotpot, served with the freshest beef and vegetables, which is a lovely experience on my spacious cabin balcony.

Accompanied by the warmth from the self-operated firepit on a slightly chilly night, dining under the stars and sipping wines from nearby vineyards is a memory that will stay with me forever. 

It is also on the balcony, or in the room on a table facing the picture window, that you could enjoy a picnic breakfast. Cleverly packed as a bento in a multi-tiered wooden box, it features a hearty Western spread, including a superb brioche (the resort makes fantastic baked goods). For even more choices, including waffles, fruit salad bowls, and fresh juices, head for the restaurant.

Great outdoors

Any guest would be remiss to skip the various attractions in the area. After all, this is a Unesco World Heritage Site that spans not just Fujisan, but 25 locations recognised for their spiritual, artistic, and pilgrimage significance. Thankfully, Hoshinoya Fuji has the best covered in its activity selection.

The most unforgettable and worthwhile experience was the morning hike through the Jyukai Forest at the mountain base, which is one of Japan’s protected natural monuments. Worry not about physical exertion or heat, as the terrain is flat, the distance covered isn’t too long, and the path tree-sheltered and brook-lined. You’d barely break a sweat visiting several sites within this area, as each stop-over takes anything between 20min to 1h.

And it was the first time in my life I saw wild red reishi mushrooms, triple the size of my palm, that are favoured by the forest’s monkeys. Then we proceeded to an underground lava ice cave, which is a sacred site used by ancient Japanese as a holy shrine, which still stands. There, the temperature plunged dramatically and the air carried a magical swirling mist. The descent is short and manageable with a pair of good walking shoes, even for children.

Throughout the half-day trip, our articulate and humorous guide briefed us on eye-opening cultural and religious practices, pointing to Fujisan’s profound importance to the Japanese psyche. Did you know that the peak of the mountain is where locals conduct deeply personal rites in acceptance of their mortality? It was a TIL (today I learned) moment for me.

We also stopped at a quiet lookout along Lake Kawaguchi, popular with newly married couples for their wedding albums, to snap the best mountainscape shots.

The morning canoeing experience on the lake is suitable for fit individuals. Serene and still, it was the perfect place from which to appreciate the vista, crisp air, and bird life. Sturdy Canadian canoes are used and are high and stable, so you’re unlikely to get wet, but note that they require strength to drag the vessel, over low steps, from the shed to shore and back.

Other tours include hiking among the Jyukai lava tubes and a private electric cycling tour. In the winter months, Hoshinoya Fuji offers thematic stays, such as the one-night Fuji Praying for Good Fortune programme, and a two-night Hunting Tour. There is also a host of regular, complimentary short activities, such as morning coffee appreciation and workshops on bird call craft and watercolour painting, if you’re not inclined to head out.

Joy by the lake

To have a splendid time at this resort town, you must absolutely venture out. Along Lake Kawaguchi’s perimeter are parks, museums, F&B hangouts, shops, and scenic spots. 

Wandering around the town centre, you’d see tourists cycling happily and pedestrians stopping on Ohashi Bridge straddling the lake, which was once selected as one of the “100 Best Roads in Japan”. The summer atmosphere was more convivial than I’d imagined.

Several treasures lie within just a short drive from Hoshinoya Fuji. There is the kitschy but marvellous Lakeside Christmas shop (yes, in summer) selling exquisite decorations and toys. Just next door is a hoto noodle shop where you can fuel up.

At the Akafuji Wine Cellar, you can sample the full portfolio of wines grown in this region, including unheard-of single-grape varietals such as Kyoho, Muscat Bailey A, and Delaware. If you’re not quite convinced, there is a small range of Fuji whisky, fruit spirits, and Italian-style condiments.

The Yamanashi Gem Museum boasts an impressive collection of exhibits and a good selection of natural stone jewellery, from super-affordable costume pieces to pricier, finer creations in glass showcases. From the perspective of a luxury editor, the museum is an essential pit-stop to pick up some great finds, such as African desert glass, Arizona sleeping beauty turquoise, and meteorite jewels that you can hardly find online, let alone in Singapore.

Fujisan Plaza, near its namesake train station, also stocks a small range of rare Japanese ox-blood coral jewels set in gold, alongside countless other souvenirs across its two floors. Godzilla tees, kimono-print shirts, and local snacks and sake, this one-stop shop has them all.

The furthest I went was the pretty Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine, whose showpiece is a five-storey pagoda nestled in foliage, with Fujisan commanding the background. There are plenty more such shrines, landmarks, stores, and regional cuisine restaurants here and beyond in the Fuji hinterland.

The city of Gotemba, where the historic Kirin whisky distillery and Gotemba Premium Outlets are situated, is only half an hour away by car.

I wish my sojourn were a longer one, but I won’t waste a single minute on regrets when I could spend that time planning my return to get to know Fujisan, once again, in her next seasonal transformation.