Review: Pizza Studio Tamaki in Singapore is worth its salt

A peculiar sight piqued my curiosity during a pre-opening visit to popular Tokyo pizzeria, Pizza Studio Tamaki’s (PST) Singapore outlet, which opens on June 10. Chef-founder Tsubasa Tamaki grabs specks of Okinawan salt and sprinkles it in the wood-fired oven before placing the pizza dough in. 

The former actor-turned -pizza chef, who runs the Tokyo-Neapolitan PST Pizza, which is a fixture on Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand list in Japan and the Top 100 Pizzas in the World list, drew inspiration from seeing how chefs season wagyu beef with a sprinkling of salt, instead of mixing salt into the dough. “It helps to bring up the flavour of the dough and adds flavour to the pizza,” he says. 

Seasoning the oven with salt, the base of the pizza crust comes flecked with grains of salt. The crust is saltier than usual when eaten on its own. However, the saltiness is dialled down when it is folded with cheese and tomato-based toppings. 

What makes PST’s Tokyo-Nepolitan-style pizza different is the cornicione, which is puffed up to charred bubbles around the circumference of the pizza. The more-burnt-than-usual cornicione is light and airy, without the typical chewy heft. 

The secret lies in “a certain part of the wheat is used in the flour,” Tamaki reveals coyly. The dough, which is made from a proprietary blend of Canadian and American wheat flour that is milled in Japan, is fermented for 30 hours to develop a more nuanced flavour. For a Neapolitan-style pizza, the base doesn’t get too soggy from being drenched by the toppings.

For the opening, PST Pizza plays it safe by opening with 12 cheese and tomato-based pizzas that are also served in Japan. The pizzeria brand also has an outlet in Bangkok. Tamaki was persuaded by local restaurant company, J.A.P. Dining Concepts, which runs Okinawa brand Yappari Steak in Vivocity,  to set up shop here. 

Of the four 12-inch pizzas that I tried, Arrabbiata is my top pick and it is easy to see why it is also Tamaki’s favourite. The topping is superbly moreish - a mix of heat from the pork nduja, fragrance from the Aomori garlic, sweetness from the tomato sauce and the Datterini tomatoes, and chopped cilantro for a dose of freshness. With the base coated with grains of salt, the flavours are enlivened and it makes you want to reach for the inevitable next slice. 

That cannot be said for the Bismarck, which arrives on the wet side, with raw Hinata egg on fresh mozzarella, mushrooms and pork sausage. The combination of salsiccia (pork sausage)  and pecorino romana, coupled with the salted pizza base, is way too salty and all I could think of was asking for a glass of water while chewing on the pizza.

The namesake Tamaki pizza is simply embellished with plump and juicy Datterini tomatoes - squeeze the tomatoes over the pizza for the sweetness to meld with the smoked mozzarella and pecorino romano.

For a stronger flavour, the 5 Formaggi doesn’t disappoint with the classic combination of mozzarella, gorgonzola, taleggio, grana padonao and mascarpone. The combination gives off different shades of flavours - milky, smoky, tangy with a hint of pungency. Drizzle acacia honey over the pie to add sweetness to the melange. 

PST takes over the former premises of contemporary restaurant Tippling Club on Tanjong Pagar Road, where the green chairs, walls, industrial-style lighting and bar counter from the former restaurant still remain. The location is a hotbed of hot pizza competition, with Ristorante Luka next door, Blue Label Pizza on Ann Siang Hill, and the famed L’antica Pizzeria Da Michele, Singapore near Chinatown, all within walking distance. 

PST’s menu is also supported by a range of typical Italian appetisers such as Prosciutto, marinated octopus and fresh burrata cheese and salad, but it is best to leave space for the pizzas. If you enjoy a touch of salt on your food, this pizzeria will tick all the boxes. 

PST Singapore, 38 Tanjong Pagar Road