Au Revoir Bordeaux, Ni Hao Ningxia: Why it is the ripe time for wines from Asia to shine

What a difference a few years (and a few awards) make. Before Asian wines like Ao Yun and Long Dai made the global wine community sit up and take notice of their premium, terroir-driven releases, you might be greeted with a blank stare, if not an imperious sniff, with the mention of Asian wines. 

Yet today, these two award-winning Chinese wine labels, backed by Moët Hennessy and Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite, respectively, rank among the highest-rated in the world and are emblematic of the new crop of fine wine coming out of Asia.

For Meiyu Li, the first female sommelier in Mainland China to achieve Advanced Sommelier accreditation from the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2014, the reason for the world’s newfound interest in Chinese and other Asian wines is simple: better quality. 

“Chinese wineries have been investing significantly in refining their production methods and elevating the standard of their wines.” She credits the 2011 milestone of Jiabeilan Grand Reserve 2009 winning the prestigious International Trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards as the turning point.

“This recognition brought significant global attention to Chinese wines and helped pave the way for other wineries in China to receive accolades from major international competitions like Decanter, International Wine Challenge, and the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.” It’s a far cry from the mass-produced offerings of pioneers like Changyu, founded in 1892. 

Japanese grape wine, which has roots dating back to the 1800s, has also experienced a resurgence in recent years. In the last decade, the number of wineries in Japan has quietly tripled, fuelled by modern tastes, innovations in viticulture, and, perhaps surprisingly, pop culture.

Shows like Apple TV+’s Drops of God and Takuya Kimura’s culinary drama Grand Maison Tokyo, partly filmed in Grace Winery’s cellar, have ignited curiosity about Japan’s vinous pursuits far beyond its borders. 

In fact, it was the Japanese grape varietal — Muscat Bailey A from Yamanashi’s Grace Winery — that first sparked sommelier Gary Low’s curiosity in Asian wines.

 In 2017, a customer bought a bottle off the Japanese section of the wine list while working as a sommelier at Jaan by Kirk Westaway. Intrigued, he had a taste. “It wasn’t as ‘wild’ (read: undrinkable) as I’d expected,” he admits. Though it wasn’t love at first sip, a seed had been planted. 

Last October, the 34-year-old opened Vitis, a warm, polished wine bar specialising in Asian wines and winemakers. The 100-strong Asian wine list, which spans countries like India, Taiwan, and Japan, is complemented by winemakers of Asian heritage, such as Singapore-born Terry Chellappah, the owner of The Next Hundred Years in Western Australia. 

Perched comfortably on the deep sage green banquettes of the Emma Maxwell Studio-designed dining room, our conversation turns to ascendant wine regions. Low is palpably excited about Hokkaido.

“Domaine Takahiko is becoming a household name, but the other Pinot Noirs will share the same richness and elegance,” he declares. “Even Burgundian winemakers, such as Domaine de Montille, have recognised Hokkaido’s potential and established a presence there.” 

The taste of the new lingered, and Low encountered more wines of Asian origin on his frequent travels. “I tried (Thai winery) Monsoon Valley at the Grand Hyatt Earwan Bangkok’s executive club lounge,” he recalls. “In December 2021, I tasted GranMonte at Mayrai (chef Ton of Le Du’s pad thai and wine bar). The Chenin Blanc was so light and fresh — it blew my mind!” 

Vitis now carries one of, if not the largest, selection of GranMonte wines in Singapore, including the mind-blowing Chenin Blanc. Yet, how is viticulture even possible in Thailand’s sweltering climate?

For Nikki Visootha Lohitnavy, GranMonte’s oenologist and winemaker, the answer is straightforward. She says innovations are essential for New Latitude Wines (a term coined by wine writer Frank Norel to describe wines produced outside the traditional wine regions). 

“Innovations in viticulture and winemaking have made it possible to grow grapes in almost any climate, including the tropics,” explains Thailand’s first and only female winemaker. 

“These advancements open the door to new wine origins and styles of high quality, shifting global perceptions from rigid adherence to Old World standards to a more exploratory mindset. For example, microclimate monitoring systems precisely track wind, sunlight, and soil humidity, optimising vine care while reducing resource use.”

She’s found that varietals like Syrah, Chenin Blanc, and Verdelho are surprisingly adaptable to Asoke Valley’s warm tropical weather.

Of course, as with many emerging wine regions, there are new challenges. “Because it’s such an unconventional region, it’s difficult to find suppliers for winemaking equipment and input at a close distance,” she admits. 

Richard Hemming MW, head of wine for Asia at private members’ club 67 Pall Mall, points out another hurdle for New Latitude Wines: “They might face the same issue as many tropical viticulture regions. I don’t know precisely the cause, but it’s almost certainly a vineyard issue that manifests as a particular characteristic in the wine — a smoky or rubbery flavour.

South Africa used to have this issue as well. It could be due to nutrients in the grapes or possibly viral infections in the vines. While it’s not necessarily a “bad” flavour, it’s not what you typically expect from wines from more established regions, and it can be a detraction for some people.” 

As Monthep Kamolsilp, executive chef of Bangkok’s hyper-local restaurant TAAN, which carries an extensive list of GranMonte wines, shares, “Initially, guests, especially those from wine-producing countries, were sceptical about Thai wine. But those adventurous enough to try the wines were always pleasantly surprised at how well they paired with our cuisine. These days, we see more and more guests knowledgeable about Thai wines and enjoy exploring our local wine list.”

Challenges become inherent strengths for others, such as Zaxee Winery, perched 2000m above sea level in the Shangri-La region of Yunnan, China. The rugged terrain and sheer altitude of this remote mountainous area make it nigh impossible to establish heavy industry, allowing the environment to remain pristine and largely free from pollution, explains owner and winemaker Shiping Quan in Mandarin.

While the Chinese wine industry needs more investors and governmental support, the loose, almost non-existent regulatory framework means there are no clear guidelines to follow. This has, in turn, fostered a new wave of bold, experimental winemakers like Quan, whose portfolio includes a range of styles, such as nouveau, sparkling, and even fortified wines.

Quan was in Singapore as part of Andaz Singapore’s winemakers dinner series Voyage to Chinese Vineyards last month. Hosted by Li, the second edition of the event introduced a diversity of talented young vintners from China.

“Last year, the Voyage dinner showcased established winemakers like Grace and Muxin, but it’s important to note that this didn’t mean these wineries were old-fashioned. For example, Muxin is a relatively new winery with a young winemaker, and even Jiabeilan, though considered a pioneer, has been experimenting with new styles,” shares the award-winning sommelier. 

“This year, the focus is on a new generation of winemakers, and what sets them apart is their diverse backgrounds and fresh perspectives. Winemakers like Ian Dai (of Xiao Pu), Ma Jie (of Petit Mont), and Max Ma (of XingGuang) are pushing boundaries by experimenting with new grape varieties, making wine in different locations, and even branching out into other areas like craft beer brewing or bartending. Their energy and passion are making people sit up and take notice, and this enthusiasm is inspiring for the industry.”

Xiao Pu’s winemaker, Dai, considered a pioneer of natural wine in China, presented Tangerine, an orange wine from Ningxia. Made with Chardonnay Musqué, a genetic variant known for its musky, sometimes spicy notes, it’s a full-skin-contact expression that’s described as pulpy and tangy.

Then there’s Purple Mist, one of the few wineries in Beijing. Winemaker Gavin Cui, an oenology graduate from the University of Adelaide, led a tasting of their Traditional Method Blanc de Blanc NV Brut. It’s a well-crafted sparkling wine — clean, crisp and fully expressive of its unique Fangshan terroir.

Places to experience wines from Asia

Sip on wines from China, Japan, India, Bali and more at these F&B establishments. 

1. Summer Palace, Conrad Singapore Orchard

Since its revitalisation last year, the Michelin-starred restaurant launched a full-fledged wine program spotlighting Chinese wines. With a curated selection of wines from seven (and growing) Chinese wineries, diners are spoiled for choice. Over 20 expressions range from established names like Silver Heights and Ao Yun to the up-and-coming Domaine Muxin of Yunnan.

Deputy head sommelier Eason Chi recommends the Silver Heights “Family Reserve” Chardonnay 2020 from Ningxia. “One of my favourite pairings with this Chardonnay — with its creamy texture and balanced acidity — is Summer Palace’s braised inaniwa noodle with lobster, scallop, and conpoy. The wine’s finesse perfectly complements the umami-rich seafood dish.”

2. 67 Pall Mall Singapore

With reportedly the most extensive wine collection in Southeast Asia (roughly 5,000), It should come as no surprise that the private members’ wine club has a decent selection of Asian wines. 107, according to head of wine Richard Hemming MW.

Besides an enviable selection of Chinese and Japanese wines, connoisseurs will also discover acclaimed Indian winery Grover Zampa and even a Pino de Bali from Hatten Wines, which will release a Methode Traditionnelle sparkling Chenin Blanc, aged for over two years sur lie in a bottle later this year.

3. 5 On 25, Andaz Singapore

The glittering luxury hotel continues championing Chinese winemakers, cultivating a wine menu that matches the restaurant’s refined Cantonese cuisine at 5 On 25. The impressive list traverses the country, from Ningxia to Xinjiang and even the Himalayas.

Look out for wines by Allofme, made with rare rose honey grapes, bottled exclusively for Andaz Singapore.