9 of the best watches descended from Gerald Genta originals

Gerald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

When LVMH revived the Gerald Genta brand in 2023, it entrusted its watchmaking atelier La Fabrique du Temps to reinterpret the maestro’s genius. This latest timepiece is a flamboyant version of the Gentissima Oursin, launched last year, based on a 1994 sketch of a sea urchin (oursin) from which only a few pieces were made.

The 36.5mm yellow gold case is decorated with 137 pin-screwed Mexican fire opals. At the same time, the orange carnelian dial is enclosed by a faceted crystal whose octagonal reflection mirrors the case edges.

A limited edition, it is powered by the Zenith Elite GG-005 automatic movement bearing a redesigned yellow gold oscillating mass.

Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition

Founded by Genta in 2000, independent brand Gerald Charles, which takes his first and middle names, served as the platform for his career’s final chapter. Marking a significant milestone is an update of the 2005 Maestro GC39 inspired by the “window watch”.

Bearing the same Baroque-influenced stepped style, this 100-piece 42mm edition is elevated with a titanium case, a jumping hours display, as well as a dial decorated with lapis lazuli and a new meta-guillochage technique that unveils a partially hidden star motif when the light catches it.

Exquisite finishings also adorn the 4.0 Caliber manufacture automatic movement, which endows 50 hours of power reserve.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

Among the popular Genta icons is the Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832, his 1976 reimagination of IWC’s anti-magnetic tool watch for engineers and other professionals. His 40mm design — featuring a five-screw bezel, integrated bracelet, and geometric lines — became a key blueprint for sports watches.

Nearly 50 years later, this new stainless steel model retains the same size and signature screws, while the case and H-link bracelet are refined ergonomically. The blue grid dial, stamped and PVD-coated, echoes the original’s industrial spirit, while the manufacture 32111 calibre with 120 hours of power reserve and an anti-magnetic shield elevates its reliability.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G-001

From its ship porthole-inspired creation in 1976, to its status as possibly the most recognisable watch in the world, the enduring Nautilus collection began with the 42mm stainless steel Ref. 3700 that Genta sketched on a napkin at a restaurant.

Among its many modern iterations is this 41mm high-jewellery version, set with 1,480 diamonds weighing 19.7 carats. Baguette-cut gems are used as hour markers, and the bezel’s rounded octagonal curves are traced, while brilliant-cut gems run across the white gold case and bracelet following the range’s horizontal embossed pattern.

It is powered by the self-winding 26-330 S caliber with stop-seconds function, enabling time-setting to the exact second.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked 150th Anniversary

The honour of being the world’s first luxury sports watch goes to the Royal Oak, designed by Genta in 1972, with its signature features including an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws, a textured “tapisserie” dial, and a seamless, integrated bracelet.

One stunning new model is this 150-piece limited edition, the last to be equipped with the groundbreakingly thin Calibre 5135 that has powered the manufacture’s 41mm open-worked self-winding perpetual calendar pieces for nearly a decade.

The enduring shape is enhanced by its titanium case and bracelet, featuring Bulk Metallic Glass elements, and a vintage dial aesthetic inspired by pocket watches.

Credor Locomotive GCCR997

The product of a friendship between Genta and Seiko, which owns luxury sub-brand Credo, the original Locomotive steel sports watch was launched in 1979. While a faithful reproduction with its hexagonal shape, bezel screws, and tapered single-lug integrated bracelet, this new model showcases a 38.8mm high-intensity titanium case and a shimmering green dial adorned with laser-cut hexagonal facets, which is a nod to railway signal lights.

The entire watch, including the titanium bracelet, also features alternating brushed and mirror finishing even on the curved surfaces. The slim 8.9mm profile houses the proprietary CR01 automatic movement, featuring a 45-hour power reserve.

Bvlgari Bvlgari Ref. 103967

This distinctive design was Genta’s brainchild in 1977, when he fused a minimalist dial with a Roman coin-inspired bezel that pays homage to Bvlgari’s roots. A departure from the man’s angular designs, this timelessly audacious collection has seen countless metamorphoses since unveiling the yellow gold original, initially named Bvlgari Roma.

Embodying its purity is this modern 38mm piece in a yellow gold case and double logo-engraved bezel, which encloses a black opaline dial set with gold-coloured hands and indexes. The BVL 191 calibre mechanical automatic movement is located within, with 42 hours of power reserve.

Omega Constellation Globemaster Annual Calendar

In 1959, Genta breathed new life into Omega’s flagship Constellation range with sharp C-case lines, a bold 35mm profile, and a pie-pan dial — in a masterstroke of what mid-century modern horology looked like.

Today, these elements are carried into the collection, highlighted by this watch blending vintage inspiration with innovation. Master Chronometer-certified, it features a 41mm case in Sedna gold, a fluted bezel, a sun-brushed dial, and black onyx inserts on the hands and indexes.

The Co-Axial Calibre 8923 drives this annual calendar, while the sapphire caseback reveals the Central Observatory medallion honouring Omega’s heritage of precision.

Pasha de Cartier Ref. WJPA0014

When Genta reimagined the Pasha in 1985, he transformed a historic 1943 water-resistant custom piece into a large and masculine watch bearing a screw-down crown cap secured by a chain, Vendome lugs, and a square chapter ring within the circular dial.

Its allure resonated so widely that Cartier has interpreted the sports-chic design into multiple variations — in various sizes, dripping with diamonds, or encased with a protective “grille”. Fitted with the calibre 1847 M mechanical automatic movement, this 35mm white gold ladies’ model showcases 488 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 8.78 carats, a silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel diamond hands, and a white sapphire-set crown.