Bulgari's 140th anniversary Octo Finissimo Sketch watches feature hand-illustrated dials of the movements beneath

It is certainly par for the course for Bulgari to keep pushing boundaries with its revolutionary Octo Finissmo collection. Since its launch in 2014, the range has continuously rewritten the rules of modern watchmaking — from its inaugural form as the world’s slimmest tourbillon watch, to models that set numerous records for ultra-thin movements, to a highly collectible pair showcasing a sketched dial in 2022.

The Roman maison’s 140th anniversary deserves no less. For this occasion, Bulgari revives the sketched-dial concept with an unconventional twist. The watch movement, as one would typically view through the caseback, is now hand-illustrated onto the dials of three limited-edition Octo Finissimo models. 

Created by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari watch division’s product creation executive director, the drawings pay tribute to the Renaissance-era art of trompe l’oeil, an ancient technique of creating a highly realistic optical illusion of 3D spaces or objects on a 2D surface. The renderings also follow in the Italian tradition of the schizzo, which refer to the precious initial sketch of each painting, sculpture or architecture that Italian artists kept for posterity.

There are two Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch watches, produced in limited editions of 280 pieces in steel and 70 in rose gold. The mechanics of the micro-rotor, escapement, bridges, rubies, as well as intricate finishing details such as Cotes de Geneve pattern and circular graining), are brought to life on the dial with Stigliani’s lively, spontaneous pencil strokes.

Different metals impart each version a distinctive personality: The rose gold model exudes radiance and sophistication, while the steel watch is a picture of urban sleekness. Adding more pizazz to the aesthetics is an alluring contrast between the polished and satin finishes, along with the line’s signature sunburst-brushed bezel. Powered by the in-house BVL138 caliber, each 40mm piece measures just 6.4mm in thickness, while the sapphire caseback is etched with "EDIZIONE LIMITATA" and "1884-2024".

Taking this innovative artistic approach further is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch. Its 43mm polished steel case with a slimness of 8.75mm houses a pivotal automatic movement design responsible for the watch’s record-breaking ultra-thin accolade in 2019. Boasting a peripheral oscillating weight with a 55-hour power reserve, it incorporates a caliber measuring a mere 3.3mm in height that not only includes a 30-minute chronograph and central second but also a second time zone display at 3 o'clock. 

Limited to just 140 pieces, this GMT edition flaunts a highly detailed dial sketch. The iconic Tri-Compax chronograph display (GMT at 3 o'clock, 30-minute counter at 6 o'clock, small seconds at 9 o'clock) with a balance between 4 and 5 o'clock is beautifully realised, as are the movement elements of the emblematic column wheel at 8 o'clock, and the bridges and gears’ exquisite finish. 

Flip the timepiece around to view the original BVL318 Caliber through the open caseback, which also bears "EDIZIONE LIMITATA" and "1884-2024” as special imprints to commemorate the 140 years that Bulgari has persisted in defying norms and reinventing its legacy.